Magura steel braided line

I have a question for the folks who have done the Magura steel braided line conversions.

Did you make your own crossover or did you use the crossover that Magura supplies? I’m not sure if the Magura supplied crossover will be long enough so that it will fit over a 3" Gazz with enough clearance.

Once a fitting is on the steel cable can it be removed? I’m wondering if I’ll be able to reuse the fittings when I shorten the cable. Otherwise I’ll have to order extra fittings.

Has anyone tried using the 90 degree bend fitting? I think a 90 degree bend fitting out of the brake lever would eliminate the kink area where the brake line has to wedge between the brake lever and the seatpost. Is it worth it to try to get the 90 degree bend fitting?

Anything else I should know before embarking on this project?

I looked into Magura braided lines a while back, and was discouraged by the price that my LBS wanted for the kit.

Have you tried Napa, or another auto parts store, for braided lines/fittings? I intend to do this, but have not yet done so.

I know of a lot of motorcycle enthusiasts who have gotten the exact same braided lines from Napa for $10 that Kawasaki sells for $60.

I’m not sure that the steel and the 90 degree kits are compatible. The last time I checked, I wasn’t able to tell, but haven’t followed up on it. The 90 uses a special fitting. The only way to tell, I think, without buying both and trying, is to ask Magura directly. I’m not even sure that the manuals would tell you the truth because I think they are a little behind the hardware.

Re: Magura steel braided line

Bronson and I both made our own crossovers. You want it to be long enough so
that it’s way out of the way of the tire. I don’t know if you can remove one
of the fittings once installed - never tried it. We also haven’t tried the
90 degree bend fitting. Might work well, but there’s no problem without it.
I have the brake mounted on a Wilder bracket - standard setup. The steel
housing is really great stuff and neither of us has had a problem with over
15 months of hard use. It’s a little expensive, but that’s only relative -
compare it to a ski weekend!

Be prepared to take your time on the project. There are a couple of steps
where it REALLY helps to have 2 people. I just bled my line a week ago for
the first time since I set it up and it was great to have a helper.

—Nathan

“john_childs” <john_childs.lqfln@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message
news:john_childs.lqfln@timelimit.unicyclist.com
>
> I have a question for the folks who have done the Magura steel braided
> line conversions.
>
> Did you make your own crossover or did you use the crossover that Magura
> supplies? I’m not sure if the Magura supplied crossover will be long
> enough so that it will fit over a 3" Gazz with enough clearance.
>
> Once a fitting is on the steel cable can it be removed? I’m wondering
> if I’ll be able to reuse the fittings when I shorten the cable.
> Otherwise I’ll have to order extra fittings.
>
> Has anyone tried using the 90 degree bend fitting? I think a 90 degree
> bend fitting out of the brake lever would eliminate the kink area where
> the brake line has to wedge between the brake lever and the seatpost.
> Is it worth it to try to get the 90 degree bend fitting?
>
> Anything else I should know before embarking on this project?

Hello everyone…I am not for sure what you are talking about but I think it might be about the brake line for the hydraulic system? But just my 2 cents worth. What you might want to try, is that when they use to take a volkswagen and make it into a dune buggy or trike they use to have problem with the clutch cable being to long. And what they did is went to a hydralic system doing away with finding some way to shorten the clutch cable. You can buy the tubing (clear plastic tube) and cut it to any length that you need and also get different types and sizes of fittings. and it is alot smaller in size than braided. I don’t see why you really need braided lines if the line is out of the way and protected. In fact I don’t see no need for hydraulic brakes on a unicycle in the first place, the cable brake is enough. That is unless you just want to be able to say that my uni is better than your? For what it is worth…Uni-On Garth :smiley: :smiley:

cable brakes are not made to fit around 3 inch wide tyres,its as simple as that.

Cable brakes also have arms that stick out. When your leg brushes against the arm it activates that side of the brake and that is usually undesirable. You can rub your leg against the hydraulic cylinder of a Magura brake and it’s not going to activate on you.

Hydraulic brakes also have very good modulation so it’s easier to feather the brake without locking up the wheel (instant face plant).

The purpose of the steel braided line is that the steel line is more flexible and won’t kink like the plastic line. Once you kink the plastic line the line is done for. The better flexibility of the steel line also makes it easier to mount on a unicycle.

Re: Re: Magura steel braided line

I have bled my brakes before and it’s a tough job for one person. It requires some creativity in fashioning some third-hand tools.

I’ll give the 90 degree bend fitting a try. Maybe it will work. I can always switch to a straight fitting if it doesn’t work. I’ll also try to get some extra fittings.

Re: Magura steel braided line

In article <john_childs.lre3b@timelimit.unicyclist.com>,
john_childs <john_childs.lre3b@timelimit.unicyclist.com> writes:

> Hydraulic brakes also have very good modulation so it’s easier to
> feather the brake without locking up the wheel (instant face plant).

Do hydraulics have any better/worse behaviour when the wheel is not
exactly true than cable brakes do? Or to high-end wheelsets ever
even get out of true at all?

============================================================
Gardner Buchanan <gbuchana@rogers.com>
Ottawa, ON FreeBSD: Where you want to go. Today.

High end wheelsets get out of true less. Also, anyone who’s spent loads on maguras and expensive wheels either can afford to get a bikeshop to true the wheel if it goes out, or can true a wheel themselves (it isn’t hard).

Also, presumably if you’ve got more control over how close your brake pads are to the wheel, you can brake loosely more easily if your wheel does get out of true.

Joe

Re: Magura steel braided line

On my KH24 with the Avro rim, I have NEVER had a problem with the wheel
going out of true. I can’t remember ever taking a spoke wrench to it, but
yes, you’re right it’s certainly easy to do when needed. Here’s one photo
showing assembling the steel braided brake lines from Jan 2002:

—Nathan

“joemarshall” wrote

> High end wheelsets get out of true less. Also, anyone who’s spent loads
> on maguras and expensive wheels either can afford to get a bikeshop to
> true the wheel if it goes out, or can true a wheel themselves (it isn’t
> hard).

If you are going to adjust the length of the line after it has been set up you will need a new brass olive per line but the sleeve nut should be okay.

A close-up of the 90 degree fitting on my Coker. :smiley:

Sorry John… I DID crop it…:frowning: