Does anyone have any advice of how to shorten the break tube on Magura
hydrolic breaks? I have read the instructions, but I am still uncertain.
When you remove the tube how likely is the break fluid to run all over
the place. How about when you cut the tube? Other than allowing for
enough slack for the seat to be raised, how much play should be left in
the tube - How long?
Any advice on upgrading to the stainless steel tubes?
Also, the Brake Lever Extender sticks out too far - it occasionally rubs
my leg. How long do most of you like the Brake Lever Extender?
My brake lever extender is cut down to about 1.5 inches long - enough to use comfortably with 2 fingers.
The length of the hydraulic line from master to slave pistons is 15 inches. I can raise my seat by a few inches if I ever need to. I think the important thing to think about when you’re trying to find out how long to cut yr hose lines is ‘what is my maximum seat height?’ Once you know the maximum height that you’d ever conceivably use, you can cut the hose. Bear in mine that once yr hoses are full of oil, they become quite rigid - so think about how you want to route the cable before cutting. Try to avoid sharp bends that might kink the lines.
I still haven’t added the brake lever extender. I just leave a lot of play in the system with the adjustment knob. When I see the need the for the brake I reach down and “set up” my hand on the magura lever. My hand is always in contact with the handle. There is so much play in it that I can get the lever while holding the seat handle and pulling up. It seems like it would be a stretch, but I find it actually works for me. I grab from the left side. I have the brake lever extender in a box, but never got around to cutting and adding it.
I have the wilder bracket below my seat.
The easy out, but pricey is to find a LBS that can do it and pay for it.
I want cut the hose also. And I’m not sure also about how to lock the hose back to the slave synlinder.
If you already finished it. Kindly post the result please.
I shortened the tube and reassembled everything and it works great. The
main thing I was worried about was having the break fluid leaking out when
I disconnected and cut the tube. As other posts indicated, and the
instructions implied, the break fluid just stayed in place, no problems.
The one big caution is to make sure you don’t activate the break lever
while the tube is disconnected. I imagine that would force the fluid out of
the tube and then you would have to refill and bleed the system. Before
cutting the tube I measured out the extra amount I thought I would need to
raise the seat, and then checked the picture of Nathan Hoover’s muni to see
how much slack he has. I used an exacto knife to cut the tube. I then slid
the threaded piece off the discarded section and back onto the tube. Next
slide on the new mushroom (which is included in the package of spare
parts), then screwed the tube back into place. It really was quite easy.
I also sawed down the extender bar leaving about 1.5", enough for two
fingers, and smoothed it out on a grinder.
The whole operation went rather smoothly. Thanks to everyone for the advice
they offered.
John Hooten
doctor wrote:
> John Hooten wrote:
> > *Does anyone have any advice of how to shorten the break tube on
> > Magura
> > hydrolic breaks? I have read the instructions, but I am still
> > uncertain.
> > When you remove the tube how likely is the break fluid to run all
> > over
> > the place. How about when you cut the tube? Other than allowing for
> > enough slack for the seat to be raised, how much play should be left
> > in
> > the tube - How long?
> >
> > *
>
> Did you refer this
> ‘HS 33 manual’ (http://www.magura.de/english/download/felgen_03_e.pdf)
> ?
>
> I want cut the hose also. And I’m not sure also about how to lock the
> hose back to the slave synlinder.
> If you already finished it. Kindly post the result please.
>
> –
> doctor - wild doc at wilduni.com
>
> ‘eDoctor.net’ (http://www.edoctor.net)
> and
> ‘wilduni.com’ (http://www.wilduni.com)
>
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