Thanks for the info Joe, as far as I can see they should do, but bearing in mind last weekend I saw a HS33 magura handle ripped clean apart in a unicycle crash maybe downgrading to plastic parts would be a bad idea. I guess for a road 29er this is uhc less of an issue. However this is all speculation rather than fact, i’ve never seen anyone using them.
Harper can help you with that. 100,000 volts or so should get it to arc.
Is partly about where your mounts are fitted too. I know Joe McLean runs v-brakes on a 24x3. I might be wrong but I think he has a deore v-brake. On the Schlumpf I had to move the mounts up slightly in order for it to work on the Big Apple.
Also, for some of the shimano brakes I think that there are two different lengths, one designed to clear mudgards on touring bikes, which should clear any old tyre. Tektro definately make a long armed brake, that goes over a full mudguard setup, but I’ve never seen one for sale, just on cheap city bikes.
Joe
I’m just curious but have you tried HUFFY Mountain bikes brakes?? 
. One of my friends unicycle brakes are taken from those. 
Yes. A friend has HS11s on his muni.
Another place to look for maguras is craigslist and the for sale section of the observedtrials.net fora.
there is a company that makes a V-brake without a noodle
(jaguar I think)that should fit.
I think a pair of Shimano XT or XTR or Avid arch rival breaks with the parralelagram would work well, because the pad would hit simalar to maguras
V-Brake Pictures and Info.
Hi Everyone!
I took the time to take osme pictures of my V-Brake settup with the Mission 4Bolt Magura adaptors. the picture are however to large to upload. I will email thm to anyone who sends me thier email in a private mesage.
Some extra info. I now have the V-Brakes mounted on my KH29 with a 2.1" kenda Klaw tire. I previously had Shimano V-brakes mounted on my Onza 24" with a 3" Duro tire. I dismounted the brake from my Onza because I just never used it. On the KH29 I use it only when going down huge hills.
Unicorn
On eBay right now, there’s a guy selling NOS (new old-stock) magura master cylinders (the brake handle part) for $15, and slave cylinders (the parts that hold the brake pads) for $5 each. That’s $25 for a whole wheel; you need to add only hose and oil and pads, and maybe a couple little parts like olives. Cheap and easy.
I am holding out for a cable brake solution. Don’t want to mess with hydraulics. My son has them on his MTB and I like the cable set-up on my own MTB much better. Cheap, reliable, easy to fix and highly available parts.
Carey
Well why not find a spare MTB brakes set and attach it to your uni. There’s of course the custom made option too. It shouldn’t cost too much i don’t think. 
V-brake
That’s my plan. Unicorn put me onto those Magura adapters out of the UK that will allow a v-brake installation…have a set enroute now. Once I get them, I plan to put on a v-brake with the tallest arms I can find for tire clearance. Hoping it works out.
Carey
This is what i’ve done, works great!
Dunno what the type is called, but i had a break-set lying around at home. So I just drilled a hole in the frame and it was done… piece o’ cace, pretty much for free…
Brake
Nice job! Looks like you solved the problem at minimum cost and effort.
Carey
What size tyre is that? It’s either a relatively narrow tyre, or you’ve found a fantastically big caliper brake (which would be great).
Joe
Its a 29x2.1" IRC Notos. Not too wide, but it should fit my newly ordered Panaracer Rampage tyre, yum!!!
Nice Job!
Henque19 did a nice job putting his V-Brakes on. However he had to drill the frame of his Unicycle to do so. I am not a machinist and I don’t have a machine shop. I would advice against drilling a hole in you Unicycle frame. If the hole is not totally in a strait line with the wheel then the pads will rub the rim at an angle. Also I don’t know the efects of drilling a hole on the strength of a MUni frame where strenth is of the utmost importance.
I am all for adding stuff to your unicycle.
I am not for making changes to the stock frame.
Unicorn
Those aren’t V-Brakes in the picture and you certainly don’t need a machine shop to drill a hole in the frame. As long as the hole is relatively level it should work just fine, and many drills have a level built right in. One single hole on that type of frame, especially where that hole is put certainly won’t effect the strength of the frame. I’m not trying to say there are no risks involved but it’s a bit easier than you make it sound.
First of all, its not a v-brake. Those are attached in a similar way as maguras onto the side of the frame. If you have magura fittings on your frame, I think you can buy some kind of adaptor from unicycle.co.uk to fit v-brakes.
Second. It was no problem drilling a straight hole. I used a simple but strong hand-held drill and the hole is failrly straight. Doesn’t matter too much if the hole is straight or not. It might even be bettter if its leaning a bit, more breaking area. I also don’t think that the hole affects durability. I wouldn’t do it on an aluminium frame, but as long as the hole is as far down as possible where the strain is minimum it souldn’t compromise durability
ive seen those longer ones too, never for sale alone though and im still looking. theres got to be a way to get them without buying the whole bicycle.
If you have a Nimbus or similar frame, the maximum damage you can do financially by drilling the frame is the cost of a new frame, ie. £20 or so.
If the hole is not in a straight line, then the pads will wear slightly unevenly. I don’t think this matters too much, loads of people have slightly uneven pads on v-brakes or caliper brakes on bikes, and it seems to work fine.
As for the strength of the frame, given that frames very rarely break, plus the fact that many road bike forks come with holes drilled there, suggests that it isn’t going to weaken it too much. If tandem forks can take having a hole drilled there, unicycles surely come under less stress than a tandem fork, as you never hit a bump at 60mph on a unicycle with the weight of two people on the frame. Also, many people have done this on stock coker frames, which are similar to Nimbus frames, with no problems. Cokers crash really hard, if anything is going to put stress on a unicycle frame, it’s riding muni on a coker.
If you have access to a pillar drill (most schools have them if you know anyone who is a teacher), then yeah, that’d be nicest to use, but tons of people have done this with a hand drill.
For 29ers, tons of caliper breaks exist that will go over the tyre, but I’ve never seen a caliper brake big enough to go over a 24/26" gazaloddi though, do they exist?
Joe