I have a uni where the fork is lose on the axle. With a ~10-20 lbs of force I can move it a bit less than 1 cm along the axle. I bought a cheap bearing puller (Inexpensive bearing puller for '07 KH isis hub) to remove the lollipop housing and bearing. The bearing was quite snug on the axle but can move around inside the housing.
I have not been able to remove the bearing from the housing because it is a very tight fit at the open end of the housing; the bearing only moves around when it is pushed in to the housing. I was trying to remove it using the bearing puller pushing against a nickel sitting on the bearing but the lip of the housing is narrow and curved so the bearing puller arms won’t stay on it. I also tried putting the housing back on the fork and using a bar to knock the bearing with a hammer. This might have worked but I was afraid of using so much force that I’d destroy the bearing.
Have other people seen and fixed this problem?
Options I see:
use more brute to remove the bearing, maybe replace the bearing and hope there is some obvious way to prevent it from slipping once I can see everything
push the bearing back in and use epoxy to stop it moving. may need to buy a new housing when replacing the bearing.
The good news:
If your frame includes bolts going into the rounded tubing, to hold the lollipops in place, eventually these will cause the frame tubing to crack and break anyway so it may not be a problem for a real long time.
Rant aside, you might be able to address this issue by adding spacers between bearing and crank on the axle. This would limit the movement without causing you to have to replace bearings or otherwise possibly crack the bearing holders.
Then, depending on the type of riding you do, start shopping for a more modern unicycle, which will be unlikely to have either of those problems.
Good idea, I hadn’t thought of that. Though because the bearings are on the inside the spacers will be between the not-rotating housing and the rotating crank. I’ll lubricate the rubbing bits and hope for the best. Sounds like this one has a short life expectancy anyway I bought it as a cheap second one for home while my first is at work but it is getting pretty expensive in time and parts. Hopefully I can free mount consistently before getting my 3rd.
If you put the lollipop into the fork and pound on the bearing you more likely to destroy the fork than anything else. Putting spacers between the crank and the lollipop housing won’t do anything for you either. Like you say, it’s on the wrong side.
The way I think you describe it is that the bearing slides inside the lollipop housing axially (the direction it would along the axle.) However, when you try to remove the bearing from the lollipop housing it binds before it comes all of the way out. That is, the outer race of the bearing slides in and out of the lollipop bearing holder but only up to a point where it binds and won’t come out.
If that’s the case and you want to use an adhesive to keep the bearing in place in the lollipop housing, use Loctite 271 Red, not an epoxy. Loctite threadlockers are cyanoacrylates. Try to clean the bearing race and lollipop bearing holder. This is difficult because they won’t come apart. Use some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. Be careful not to get any Loctite on the bearing cage or the seals, just the outer race.
If you want to get the bearing out you will need a section of tube or pipe with an ID that is larger than the OD of the outer race but still small enough to rest the lollipop housing on. Then you need a pipe or bar that will cover the inner race of the bearing. Set it up and smack it. This is very hard on the bearing but I never thought this kind of abuse hurt unicycle bearings that much. Unicycle bearings are lightly loaded and turn really, really slowly.
If you’re going to remove the bearing anyway, don’t use Loctite to stick it to the lollipop housing. Instead, use some aluminum foil (one layer) to make the bearing fit tighter in the housing where it bottoms. Even better is to reach inside the lollipop housing (which is soft aluminum) with a center punch and pound the punch with a hammer to put peen dimples around it to deform the material on the ID surface of the housing and make the fit tighter that way.
That’s what happened to my first uni, a freebie Savage. Eventually gave it to a friend who’s grandfather welds. . . anyway, lets just say that thing ain’t goin’ anywhere for a loooong time. From what I hear, he still hasn’t learned on it. Such is life.