The question is in the subject: whatever I’m doing, loctite…, my right crank becomes loose after a few hours. I never had problems with the left one.
Why? is there any objective reason? shouldn’t the hub screw thread be reversed on the right side, like it is for the pedal?
New pictures on http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/MUNI-fr?&page=3
The crank isn’t spinning relative to the hub- so thread direction shouldn’t matter, as I see it.
I tend to be right foot dominate: it’s my guess that since I tend to initiate iddles and such with that foot, that Greg Harper chooses to loosen that one. Go ahead and tighten your crank up again, then leave it propped up next to your favorite disco-tech, and hide in the bushes with a hammer- Greg just LOVES hammers; when he showes up in the bush, ask him what you ever did to deserve that kind of attention- his answer is sure to be amusing if not informative. Don’t give him the hammer until you’ve received a satisfactory responce, or you’ll be left all alone in a bush walking home because your crank is loose wondering why you didn’t spend more time one footing. Yep.
-Christopher
and just WHERE did we find u?
back to the crank problem
r u sure u have a left and right hand crack and not two left ones?
Re: loose crank: why always the right one?
On Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:48:05 -0600, GILD
<GILD.lbeeb@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
>back to the crank problem
>r u sure u have a left and right hand crack and not two left ones?
I think that’s irrelevant. The difference in L and R cranks in in the
thread for the pedal, not in the attachment to the hub. I have no
history in cranks working loose on me but fme may have a good point.
Even if there is no rotation, the circular variation in the force
vector might work loose one nut preferentially. Anyone else
experienced R crank loosening more than L? Or the other way around, to
‘disprove’ it?
"In cooking, 6 drops make a dash. "
I am assuming that your axle is of the square taper variety, the most common. If so, it is likely that either the axle taper is worn, bent, or twisted in some way, or that the square hole in the crank is worn. If you have already tried several different cranks then, sadly, the axle is probably worn. If you have not tried different cranks, get some new ones or try some you have lying around. This is the cheap and easy thing to do. If none of the right cranks work, you will have to replace the axle/hub. Good time for a wheel upgrade, that.
As an alternative, remove both cranks, swap the cranks on the axle, turn the seat around, and see what that does for you. Does the problem follow the crank or the axle?
I had the same problem but on my left crank.
I put it down to the fact that my left foot was my starting foot and the foot i put weight on when idling…
a problem i used to have, but no more…
i have a 24 in torker, and my right crank has been driving me insane, it always loosened, i could hardly ride a quarter of a mile before it would drive me insane. but without that loose right crank i never would have learned how to one foot with my left.
my problem was with the cranks, i think that from hammering them back on so many times it made the square stretch. i just recently got some bicycle euro cranks in the mail, they are heavenly in comparison, i have had no grief with them so far. i would suggest new cranks, they are most definitly worth every penny you would spend to stop the wobbling at every revolution.
matt