Recently I bought a first hand quax muni 24’’ with ISIS hub. After ridding it four times or so (without any high jumps, just easy cross country), I started to notice a creaking noise almost every turn of the wheel. When I was looking for the source of the sound I found out that one of the bearings is loose and can move freely along the axle.
Although the bearings are the ones made by Quax for the ISIS hub, it seems as if the one that is loose is too big for the axle. I also found some black dust on the axle, as if either the bearing or the axle had worn out… .
I would like to know if this is normal, or if I should go back to the shop to complain. Does any of you know what could be the problem?.
Normal “red” Loctite (Loctite 262) or “blue” Loctite (242) are intended as thread lockers. The best product to use in this situation is Loctite 609 (medium strength, you can still remove it with a bearing puller) or Loctite 648 (high strength, unlikely a puller alone without also heating to 150C will ever remove it). 609 and 648 are both green in color. They should be used in conjunction with the Loctite 7649 activator. I use 609 with 7649 for all the bearings I install and have had no reports of them ever coming off on their own. 648 would scare me.
Note you need to assembly QUICKLY or you’ll just get the bearing set halfway on! From the instructions, “Spray with Activator 7471 or 7649 and allow to dry”, then “apply adhesive thoroughly to both bond surfaces and assemble at high press on rates.”. I usually use a deep socket as a press tool; one that touches the inner race of the bearing only (so as not to damage it), but clears the axle, and try to hammer it on rapidly with just a few blows. Let sit an hour or so (if you use the activator) before riding.
If you have no spacers between crank and bearing, it’s rather “normal” to loose bearings ! The loose problem cannot come from the bearing but from the axis itself which keeps some wear and even with new bearings you will keep the same bearing loose concern …
Last week I had to replace my bearings because rather used and I could remove them with an appropriate bearing pull off tool and the new bearings are loose of course as the wear is on the axis but I used again Loctite 648 and no problem at all.
On the industrial part of the Loctite site, they list the 609 Loctite you mention. My guess is that these aren’t found in most auto parts stores. In auto stores, it will be just red, blue and green. Blue is great for pedals, red is what you want for bearings. Definitely avoid green, it is for electronic size tiny bolts, and won’t do a thing.
The red Loctite you will find at auto mart needs no activator. Just be sure the parts are clean and oil free.
It is likely Adelman is correct when he said the 609 fluid is green. Not so long ago (I have a good one in my tool box), blue loctite was in a blue tube. Now it looks like they put red, blue and green all in red tubes, changing just the color of the label. What’s up with that ?
Seems like Adelman is right, that if you are willing to go the extra step to find 609 green , it is special bearing retaining stuff.
So get that ? 609 green, in a red bottle, labeled “green” if you buy online, and red in a red tube labeled “red”, instead of the red tube labeled “green” if you buy at your local parts store. Anyway, that’s the way they do it.
loc tite comes in all colors of bottles with all colors of labels, i have a red bottle with the word blue printed on it… and a blue bottle with the word red on it.
i don’t ever suggest using red loc tite. it bonds threads together and i have personally ruined lots of things with it. threads like to break OFF easily when it is used. bearings need to be removable… use the normal stuff! it works!!
if it aint broke, don’t fix it… unless you want it broke real soon.
Yeah, but you don’t pull the bearing off until it’s busted
I have never had to use loctite on uni bearings. The red stuff will seize up small parts, that’s why I called it “weld”. Like it says on their site, it is made for bolts > half inch.
I think the 609 stuff sounds good, Adel says you can pull em off later not to hard. The common auto part red stuff should work in a pinch likely just as well.
If I had to pick from auto parts red or blue, I would go with the red, because of the side loads on the uni bearing. It’s not a threaded bolt that can snap off. At worse, with a little heat, auto parts red glued bearings could be pulled off with a common puller.
Loctite makes hundreds, maybe thousands, of products. Color isn’t an indication of the application. 262 (aka Red) is a threadlocker for PERMANENT installations (or big heat required to remove it). 242 (aka Blue) is a threadlocker that you can later remove. 609 is designed to secure a press-fit, specifically a bearing onto a shaft. 648 is designed to do the same thing in a more permanent fashion.