I’m wondering what the advantage is (if there is one) over having a longneck frame. I’m looking to get a kris holm 20" but im not sure to go for the long neck frame or not.
The primary reason for a longneck frame is that it puts the seat clamp up out of the way so it won’t get caught on your pants or smack you in the knees while doing tricks. Right now my right knee is telling me I shoulda bought one, lol. It also looks kinda cool…
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So you have had problems with the seat clamp…I have had NONE at all…I wonder why this is… What trick attempts usually cause this and what type of riding do you do?
It’s lighter when you run a cromo post, as you can cut it down. There is no downside, so for the same price I would get it which I did, and I love mine.
ok thanks guys, but i saw the kris holm 20" on bike island but i couldnt find the long neck frame one on there, im not sure if its that they dont have it or my lack of skill with computers again. Considering they have the cheapest price on this uni besides used ones, if they dont have the long neck one then ill just settle for the short neck one because i dont wana pay an extra $100 on a different site just for that frame.
I always feel like a longneck frame will snap easier than a regular frame. But Kris increased the thickness at that connection, so it should be fine.
Why would a longneck frame snap easier?
I don’t think it will. I guess the neck of the frame has a bigger chance of snapping but not at the weld spot.
Yeah, if it were to stap i would think it would be near the seatpost clamp area.
Depending on how long the seatpost is on this inside.
Now, why would you think that? The neck is effectively double-thickness near the seatpost clamp, due to the seat post being inside the neck at that point.
Furthermore, the axis of rotation for any forces applied to the seat would be where the neck meets the frame, just above the tire.
So, can you explain your theory? There may be some merit to it, after all…
Quote the whole post next time, and stop trying to make me look like an idiot when im not.
Theres nothing that supports your “double thickness near the clamp area” thing either. You made that up.
I didnt say it would, I just always have that thought about them, that because the neck is longer, there is more leverage going on, so more force being at the connection of neck and crown when doing flatland. But like I said, its just a funny thought I have about longnecks, even though they are fine. Haha.
hahahah ok your right if you only put the seat post in an inch it is more likely to break there
Eh, there’s the same leverage either way lol, unless the longneck is causing you to have your seat higher or something…
Even if your seatpost were shorter, I would think that it would be much more likely for it to break at the crown of the frame.
- Its where the weld is.
- Its where the most force is applied.
If you didnt know, welds are stronger than the actuall metal.
Bending moment increases proportionally with the length of the lever arm, so it makes perfect sense that the frames break at the crown. If you have a longneck frame, the odds of it breaking near the seatpost clamp are even lower. The new KH frames have a butted seat tube, so it will be interesting to see where they break (although I can guarantee it won’t be anywhere near the seatpost clamp, unless you’re doing some really weird things to your unicycle).
It was just a thought anyways. I figured if you only have like a 5 inch seat post , and you land very hard on your seats front handle, why couldnt it happen? its possible. I can see it braking near the crown also, though, but not on the welds.
If you didnt know, the process of welding causes hydrogen enbrittlement, making the metal more brittle around welds, making a crack or breakage more likely near a weld.