lightweight 26" muni build

I don’t have any 32 hole uni wheels. More out of the way things worked out than an active decision. So, that out of the way I will also add that I build wheels, bike wheels mostly, but uni wheels occasionally. I have been building wheels for 30 years (more to be accurate, but read as “a long time”).

Between 32 hole, and 36 hole I don’t think anyone could make an argument for significant strength differences in wheels built with modern rims and spokes.

So, you could save a few grams and build 32 with no ill effects. Also, you have a much bigger selection of rims. Of course, it still needs to be a good build.

Sorry for the OT Jacob, you’re not pushing mad4one parts anymore? :thinking:

Depends what you use it for. My 26" comes in well under 4kg with a 2.4" tyre. It’s great for XC- very light!

There are lighter pedal options out there. I use AESTs. You can easily drop 300g on the saddle- just trim the foam (it’s excessive on all production saddles), and use a carbon base. The Nimbus Equinox Hub is lighter than the moment hub and costs less than the Ti version. The Velocity is ok, but a good XC rim should be in the 400-500g range (the difficulty is finding a wideish rim with 36" spokes- these are generally DH rims).

Your tyres a super heavy also. The WTB Mutanorapter 26x2.4 will drop a few hundred grams.

Btw, Koxx hubs are nice - I’m riding Koxx One Light K2 hub in my 19" trials uni.

If you are planning on using tires in the 2.2-2.5 range a 35mm rim should be pretty close to ideal, I might go a bit wider but not much. front trials rims might be an option.

I have 3 wheels laced with 32 spokes each, I haven’t had any problems with any of them. In fact I would say there is no discernible difference either for ride or need of maintenance.

For relatively lightweight inexpensive and tough pedals I have been really impressed with the nukeproof electrons that I ordered when they first came out. I am now convinced that composite pedals with metal spikes are the way to go. There are now multiple brands selling the same pedals they are all the same.

And yes lighter wheels are more affected by obstacles etc. What you loose in the ability to plow through sections you gain in the manoverability to pick a better line. You should have no problems unless your new setup tends to bounce you all over the place. A thick inner tube is sometimes all it takes to get a light unicycle to behave again.

Eric- glad to read you’ve had no problems with your 32 spoke wheels. I will have to check out those nukeproof electron pedals- they look nice and are at the right price point for me too.

Thanks to all for the comments and advice here. I will be going with the 32Hole hub- not so much for weight but for rim selection. I’ve decided that for now, the carbon rim is too expensive- will try the anodized red velocity blunt 35 and run the HD snakeskin tubeless and see how that rides.

i once built a similar setup although KH29 frame with a Mavic 29er rim, Hans snake skin tubeless. Flattened fusion (lighter than the Zero?)
Cant remember if i place it on a carbon post. Nukeproof Ti pedals.
These were the main weight savers.

I had to have the tyre pressure quite high so there was no roll on the quick narrow light rim but all in all its light and fast. pleasure to ride. Sold to a fellow rider in South Australia loving it all the way around the Barossa im sure

Light is good. strength of my old rim and tyre choice were main concerns if they were going to cause issues. depends how and where it rides. for xc is was great. My 26guni is heavy but been far more places, further faster and getting a hard life through normal ‘abuse’. but i care for it well and its never failed me yet. I just needed to build muscle to handle it.

all the best.
weight weenies have there place but not entirely necessary. with a 36er we cant make them that much lighter and is there a need too? prob not really. they roll great and never will climb that great. unless we can get a hub to gear down and up or get carbon frames strong enough with superlight tyres that are easy to put on. Expensive wishful thinking perhaps.

I lost 1.5 kg from my 36er, just by changing the tire and tube, and man did I notice it.:):):):slight_smile: So agile and much better to handle.

I made a Racing Ralph Frankentire (750 gr) and put in a 29er tube (250 gr)
It didn’t cost that much and it holding for over a year now.

What do you mean by “I made a tire”, you made it yourself? Or you bought it?

It’s a Frankentire. He (or she) cut and sewed/glued two tires together to make it. It’s more of a project than I might chose to embark upon, but folks have done it.

I just took off my Schlumpf hub out of my 650b to build a super light XC machine. It’s standing at 12lbs with some pretty heavy Straitline pedals, 10.9lbs without pedals. I went for a ride yesterday, it can’t even feel like my uni is there, it’s soo light I feel I could climb forever with it.

Here are the specs:
-Scott Wallis CF seatbase with KH street foam
-Thompson Elite seatpost
-Salsa Seatclamp (bolt, not QR)
-Flansberrium Prototype QR frame
-Nimbus Cr-Mo hub (old fat models)
-Velocity Blunt 35, 27,5"
-Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstar Tubeless
-KH Spirit cranks 110-137
-Avid Elixir 5 brake (with XO rotor and Ti bolts for the swag)
-Straitline DeFacto pedals (gotta find lighter.

Finished assembling the 26er for which this thread was started after my LBS built the wheel and thought I’d share some pics. What a difference the decrease in rim/tire weight makes!!!
The uni weights about 10.5 lbs- not a huge absolute difference but somehow it really feels lighter (previous 26er was about 14 lbs).
I’m running the snakeskin HD tubeless on the 35mm Velocity Blunt 32 spoke rim, and although there is some tire fold on lateral hops, I’ll deal with it to enjoy the lightweight wheel. I feel like I can ride farther than before, but maybe that’s just because I’m so stoked! :smiley:
Photos from the Wissahickon Valley here in Philadelphia