You’d be better off to take the money your going to throw at a TI hub, and spend it on the rim.
Definitely not going for the titanium hub- comments here confirmed my suspicions. Looking forward to getting it built. Just have to decide whether or not to get the Super Gravity or the Snakeskin Hans Dampf
If you can find one try to get a koxxone light hub.
They are plenty strong and pretty light! Also they come in ISIS driving meaning you can use whatever cranks you want.
Have you looked at bike trials rims?
Single wall 48 mm wide Try-All NoWar K2 26" (564 g) worked for me fine!
In terms of a lightweight build the normal hans may be a better choice as the extra ~300g is exactly where you would notice it most. If you are comfy with the non SG, why add the weight. A lighter rim/tyre will notice a lot more than a light hub.
Be careful about going for overly narrow rims. Although 35mm should be fine anything much less is going to be very prone to folding over on landings and while idling or turning on the spot. It is also far more prone to pinch flats.
As has been said before, the wheel is where you want to lose the weight. Frame weight loss is far more expensive than body weight loss with almost exactly the same returns. Needless to say i am being a bit hypocritical here given that i am trying to get a fully equipped 700c down to 4.5-5kg with a 2.5kg wheelset.
Choosing every single part for a unicycle is time consuming but so much fun and allows you to take the best components within your budget and mash them together into what YOU want to ride.
Interesting to read this- I’ve read on other threads that the need for a wide rim for muni may be somewhat of a myth (Building a 650B Muni and Tubeless - 2 strikes, 1 home run). Or is it something with little evidence on either side of the argument, but instead anecdote and dogma? It makes sense to me that the narrower 35 would be better suited for tubeless setup, which avoids the issue of pinch flats.
I guess the issue that i raised is more against the minimum recommended rim width for many 26x2.2-5 tyres of around 25mm. If you tried to use that narrow a rim, you would get severe problems. Plenty of people have gone for 35mm and it seems to be a good size for a lightweight uni rim.
I can hardly imagine why unicycles have gone towards wide rims if there was no performance advantage. Muni did not start off with wide rims.
wide rims, as in wider than 40mm are really nice for bigger tires.
With use of tires under 2.7 i really dont agree with a wide rim. the tire gets stretched out too much and the advantage of the wide rim is now lost.
Wider rims keep the tire stable with low psi, which is very nice for rough hard terrain.
I wouldnt go with a 35mm rim, the 40mm i use now is feeling pretty small but it works with higher psi and keeps my speed high which is very nice for charging rough trails.
I find that going at fast speeds with shorter cranks a narrower rim has a greater tendency to turn the wheel when hitting a bump than a wider rim. Bikes (1) don’t have all the weight on the front wheel, (2) have more leverage to keep the wheel straight (handlebars), and (3) usually have front suspension. I don’t know that a bike comparison is particularly useful and the benefit of a wider rim may not be felt at slower speeds and with longer cranks.
Do you (or anyone) ride a 32hole rim rather than a 36 hole and if so can you comment on wheel strength?
I don’t have any 32 hole uni wheels. More out of the way things worked out than an active decision. So, that out of the way I will also add that I build wheels, bike wheels mostly, but uni wheels occasionally. I have been building wheels for 30 years (more to be accurate, but read as “a long time”).
Between 32 hole, and 36 hole I don’t think anyone could make an argument for significant strength differences in wheels built with modern rims and spokes.
So, you could save a few grams and build 32 with no ill effects. Also, you have a much bigger selection of rims. Of course, it still needs to be a good build.
Sorry for the OT Jacob, you’re not pushing mad4one parts anymore?
Depends what you use it for. My 26" comes in well under 4kg with a 2.4" tyre. It’s great for XC- very light!
There are lighter pedal options out there. I use AESTs. You can easily drop 300g on the saddle- just trim the foam (it’s excessive on all production saddles), and use a carbon base. The Nimbus Equinox Hub is lighter than the moment hub and costs less than the Ti version. The Velocity is ok, but a good XC rim should be in the 400-500g range (the difficulty is finding a wideish rim with 36" spokes- these are generally DH rims).
Your tyres a super heavy also. The WTB Mutanorapter 26x2.4 will drop a few hundred grams.
Btw, Koxx hubs are nice - I’m riding Koxx One Light K2 hub in my 19" trials uni.
If you are planning on using tires in the 2.2-2.5 range a 35mm rim should be pretty close to ideal, I might go a bit wider but not much. front trials rims might be an option.
I have 3 wheels laced with 32 spokes each, I haven’t had any problems with any of them. In fact I would say there is no discernible difference either for ride or need of maintenance.
For relatively lightweight inexpensive and tough pedals I have been really impressed with the nukeproof electrons that I ordered when they first came out. I am now convinced that composite pedals with metal spikes are the way to go. There are now multiple brands selling the same pedals they are all the same.
And yes lighter wheels are more affected by obstacles etc. What you loose in the ability to plow through sections you gain in the manoverability to pick a better line. You should have no problems unless your new setup tends to bounce you all over the place. A thick inner tube is sometimes all it takes to get a light unicycle to behave again.
Eric- glad to read you’ve had no problems with your 32 spoke wheels. I will have to check out those nukeproof electron pedals- they look nice and are at the right price point for me too.
Thanks to all for the comments and advice here. I will be going with the 32Hole hub- not so much for weight but for rim selection. I’ve decided that for now, the carbon rim is too expensive- will try the anodized red velocity blunt 35 and run the HD snakeskin tubeless and see how that rides.
i once built a similar setup although KH29 frame with a Mavic 29er rim, Hans snake skin tubeless. Flattened fusion (lighter than the Zero?)
Cant remember if i place it on a carbon post. Nukeproof Ti pedals.
These were the main weight savers.
I had to have the tyre pressure quite high so there was no roll on the quick narrow light rim but all in all its light and fast. pleasure to ride. Sold to a fellow rider in South Australia loving it all the way around the Barossa im sure
Light is good. strength of my old rim and tyre choice were main concerns if they were going to cause issues. depends how and where it rides. for xc is was great. My 26guni is heavy but been far more places, further faster and getting a hard life through normal ‘abuse’. but i care for it well and its never failed me yet. I just needed to build muscle to handle it.
all the best.
weight weenies have there place but not entirely necessary. with a 36er we cant make them that much lighter and is there a need too? prob not really. they roll great and never will climb that great. unless we can get a hub to gear down and up or get carbon frames strong enough with superlight tyres that are easy to put on. Expensive wishful thinking perhaps.
I lost 1.5 kg from my 36er, just by changing the tire and tube, and man did I notice it.:):):) So agile and much better to handle.
I made a Racing Ralph Frankentire (750 gr) and put in a 29er tube (250 gr)
It didn’t cost that much and it holding for over a year now.
What do you mean by “I made a tire”, you made it yourself? Or you bought it?
It’s a Frankentire. He (or she) cut and sewed/glued two tires together to make it. It’s more of a project than I might chose to embark upon, but folks have done it.