hey guys im just wondering if anyone claims to have the lightest ( or lightish ) 36er im intrested in what weight limits can be acheived
please give a list of parts and weights if you can pictures would also be cool 
I got slightly over 6kg with my Diet Coker a few years ago. The parts have all been cannibalised and used on other unicycles. From memory, the biggest problem was that the frame was a 1st Gen Schlumpf frame, and without the right hub, was extremely flexy. You could probably replace it with the equivalent KH frame today.
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Apologies 
no worries
Lightness doesn’t make too much of a difference. Why do you ask? Check out pictures of my unicycles on my website. My coker is quite heavy with the handlebar and hub, but it can be ridden quite fast.
corbin
long distance climbing upphill?
It makes a noticeable difference when climbing and descending, especially weight centered on the rim/tyre.
Sure, there are other factors, like frame flex, position, etc. Not to mention gears.
trust me last weekend i was riding a uni with a frame weight of 316 grams it makes a massive diffrence
unfountally i had to hand it back 
but i NEED sonthing like that again
If that was the 36 frame you had I think it was 580ish. Still a hot weight for a 36 frame (and not available yet!).
I can’t remember the actual weight, but my RTL 36er, fixed, with handlebar, was under 7kg. That was with a cromo hub and heavier seat than I have now (now with thiner foam, CF base it’s about 600g), so you could certainly get towards 6kg.
Sam
Do you insist on a clincher tyre?
If we are really talking lightweight:
The lightest kind of wheel you could get would be with a sewn-together tubular Frankenstein tyre and a carbon rim. But wooden rims are almost as light and I think it should be easier to have one made for a special size.
An internet aquaintance of mine can make such (wooden-rimmed) wheels and tyres for any size you like, and has already equipped several penny farthings with tubular air tyres. If you’re interested I could connect you to him. But he’s over here.
There might be somebody with the same skills who is located closer to you. Ask track racers to find out.
Apart from the track racing material, there are tubular tyres for road use (usually up to 25mm, and I’ve found one model in 27mm) and for cyclocross use (32-35mm, in various degrees of luggedness)
Disclaimer: Although very interested in light road unis, I’ve only dealt with this in theory. Neither have I ridden a unicycle with a tubular tyre yet, nor with any seriously narrow tyre.
I’m thinking of building a Carbon Fibre frame. Not sure how heavy it would be though. Probably best speaking to Roger about CF frame weights.
i think sam w might be right acctully but thats still super light
Sask’s custom 36er tire weighs 800-900g vs the usual 1700-1900g. That’s a huge weight savings where it is easily felt.
Yes, I think serious tyre modification like this is where you can make the most (and most worthwhile) savings on a 36 weight. Most other components (rim, frame etc.) don’t leave much room for improvement. By this I mean that I don’t see any point in making custom frames and rims - at least in the quest to loose weight.
Most seats have some fat which could be lost. We can’t expect to get near the 130g of racing bike saddles as they are doing quite a different job (not providing as much of the control and holding weight in a more efficient way than unicycling usually allows for), but we surely don’t need to carry 830g (KH Freeride) or even 695g (Impact Naomi) with us.
Sam
I agree- seats are one of the most unnecessarily heavy parts on a unicycle. Even without getting to minimalist sub 200g’s bicycle seats, an equivalent uni seat ought to be around 300-400g.
If you’re talking about the 36er you borrowed from Roger at Mayhem, then I reckon the biggest reason that feels light to ride is because of the tyre. I think it had the prototype Nightrider tyre, which is quite a bit lighter than the production ones, and a lightweight tube. This is where weight is most noticeable, and can’t be duplicated without making your own tyre (skimming half the rubber off a new tyre or doing a sask-job).
It’s got an aluminium-axled hub as well which cuts a fair amount of dead weight. Certainly not all in the frame.
Apart from the tyre, the easiest place to lose weight from a (any) unicycle is probably the saddle (standard saddles are really heavy - both the base and the foam). And get rid of the massive touring handle, mudguards and any other crap you’ve got hanging off it 
Rob
EDIT: just noticed people already mentioned saddle weight… must wake up.
After bringing up seat weights I thought I’d weigh my current 36er seat. It is 540g, including all bolts and nuts.
That’s
- 260g: carbon fibre base (rear lip removed; inc. 6 carriage bolts as I couldn't detach them)
- 130g: KH plastic handle and bumper (trimmed rear bumper down)
- 70g: foam, very cut down from a Freeride
- 70g: cover, oldish vinyl KH Freeride
- 10g: nuts x 6
I use it on a Nimbus Shadow handle, which saves on using four bolts as I don’t need the middle ones.
There’s not much to take off it as it is; maybe 30g off the cover if I sewed up one with a lighter material; maybe 10g if all bolts were trimmed down to required length; maybe 30g if the CF base was heavily trimmed around the front lip where it doesn’t need so much sidewall. The front bumper is heavy, but cannot be much reduced without swapping for a carbon SW Deathgrip.
I think that for road use, and when mounted front/back on a Shadow handle rather than having enough strength to mount in the middle, a much less burly CF base could be made to work well for less weight.
Sam
This has been covered endless times on this forum, but I suppose there may be some new tricks up someone’s sleeve.
Until you’ve implemented the ideas laid out in this thread, you’re just dicking around.