I was wondering what length of cranks people use and for what style of riding. what do you like? and what do you hate about it?
lonhger cranks 170s for example are often used for muni because you get more power out of each stroke. middle sized cranks 130-140s are used pretty much for anything theyre very multipurpose. short cranks110-125s are used fro trials and street for speed and control aswell as distance riding for speed. short cranks li100s aor 90s are used for freestyle for speed and control and some very brave distance riders use them for crazy speed.
I have 125’s on my 29er, then 150’s one my trials but the cranks on my trials are soon to change to 110’s when my Koxx hub and cranks get here. I also have 150’s on my learner. And well bc wheels have 0mm cranks or at least mine does.
110-123 for street !? what the hell ? 140’s r short enough trust me
unless you cout the drop of the platform as a crank length
Plenty of cranks discussion if you search. I’ve written pages of the stuff myself!
26 inch MUni: 170mm cranks for all extreme mud, slime, sand and hills. I sometimes prefer 150s, which have less torque, but spin better. (I am vertically challenged.)
700c (super skinny road tyre): 110mm cranks for general riding and light cross country. 102mm cranks when I’m in a hurry on the flat. 89s when I’m being silly on the very flat.
24: I no longer have a 24, but I used to use 125s for general purpose, 110s for more road-based stuff, and did many happy miles on 102s. I even did some cross country on the 110s and on one amusing and memorable occasion, some MUni on 102s…
20: varies. I think it has 110s on most of the time. I only use the 20 for Morris shows, a tiny incy wincy bit of freestyle, and exceptionally rarely for hockey.
Coker: 150s for all general purpose riding including hard cross country. 125s are OK for the road, but with that big wheel, I’d rather sacrifice a bit of speed for versaatility and safety so I keep going back to the 150s.
ok your rpobly right…i just thought that the shorter cranks would be better for added speed.
yeah 140’s is the BEST for 20" trials… well i think so…
Hey trials_uni what is the size of the cranks on ur new one??
125s so 5 inches. i like em cuz theyre quick for street but very controlable for trials…i might get some 140s though just for street riding. but im really looking forward to when i get my new hub and crankset which should be a a month or two.
114mm on my 20" freestyler.
140mm on my trials… Would love to have 125mm though! Can’t se the point ot thease long things…
165 on my 24" muni, would like about 150, but i’m not willing to pay for it
102mm on my 29er… and i’ll change to 89 when the snow melts away, and change down to about 50-60 mm somewhere this summer, my dad’s an old welder and has promised to help me
50-60mm on a 29er!!! thats nutz…do you have anyidea of how zippy and wierd that will feel…it will be like riding a mosquito or something…carzyness.
how long does it take darren bedford to install a new hub and cranks??
dont kno…maybe you shlould call and ask him…if hes not busy it shlouldnt take him more than a day…if its a slow day he can probly get it buildit tru it and send it back with in the same day or at least early the next day. but if hes busy it could take a day or two.
I have 150’s on my coker, but they’re kinda too long for higher speeds, so I want to get some 125’s. they were okay when I had a steel rim, but with the airfoil rim I think shorter cranks would be better.
and I have 145’s on my trials unicycle. they work well, but I want to get some shorter ones because I like doing freestyle on it as well.
I have 127’s on my 20" and they work well for an all round unicycle. It’s not too slow and it still works okay for moderate trials.
What would the disadvantages be on having 110 mm cranks on my trials/street uni?
I know the advantages but not the bad things, so information from 110 users (not just people with theories) would be great, thanks.
Shorter crank arms = less torque = less control over wheel on trials courses.
a curious thing I noted on my 29": I can better manage ascending slopes with 110 than with 150! (on roads).
I think that this is due to the fact that I spend less time with my cranks in an instable position where I may fall (cranks being nearly vertical).
Shorter crank arms = shorter pedal grabs.
Longer crank arms = higher pedal grabs.
I’ve heard a few people use that argument, but I don’t see how it’s possible… whatever length cranks you have, they rotate once per wheel revolution, so with shorter cranks (giving less torque) it should be MORE likely to be in a position where you stall. The cranks are vertical for the same time per hill whatever length they are.
It could be that you ride quicker up hills with shorter cranks (because you have to to overcome the lack of torque), so are less likely to stall because of the speed - I certainly find it easier to sprint up a difficult hill than to ride slowly; uses more energy but is less likely to fail due to stalling.