Kris Holm: How about some "legacy" support?

I know I’m not the only guy out there sporting a sweet custom frame that was made several years ago for the profile hub. Many of us really want to buy your sweet Moment hub but can’t due to bearing size issues.

So, maybe on your '08 set you could offer a 40mm OD bearing option for us legacy users? I would would buy your product in a heartbeat - and several other people would to!

A 160mm crank option would also be sweet (150 jumps to 165, wtf?), but I’d settle for just the bearings.


some non drilled rims and some better seatposts/seat stiffeners would be really nice as well… and 13 ga. spokes = :frowning: how much weight difference is there between 13 and 12 ga. spokes?

-stephen- just posting concerns…

True your wheel, keep all the spoke tight, then shut up. Don’t go whining to Kris about how you did a twelve foot drop with loose spokes and damaged your rim.
If you are breaking posts and seatbases, stop being cheap and get a thompson and CF base. Don’t bitch at kris when you overabuse a product.

Well, the profile hub is pretty darn good. I’m not sure why you would really need the Moment hub when you have a profile.

For bearings, just go to and buy them with whatever inside mm you need. You should be able to get the size you need.

Regarding cranks…do you really need anything longer than 150? :slight_smile:
…and if you really do, then 165’s are better than the 'old 170 size that older KH24’s came with (and I used those for a long time before switching to 150’s on a new KH).


spokes were tight… the first time i bent it jumping over something and landing the same height i jumped from. actually, i would like to see a well trussed drilled double walled drilled rim(drilled or not).

also, a lot of people break seatposts, i don’t have a problem with it personally, but i know that a whole lot of people break the seat stiffeners, and it is by far the weakest link on his unicycles.

eh, nvm that part…

there is nothing wrong with suggesting stronger components. i think it would be sweet if kris made a reinforced seatpost like the qu-ax, and an undrilled rim like try-all does

+1 bit of an over reaction :roll_eyes:

the reals question is 137 jumping to 150
maybe some nice oldschool 145’s for us profile riders…:slight_smile:
seat posts and stiffener plates will break under anyuser.
and messing up rims…
stop complaining because that (unless the product has a flaw which overall they dont) it just you going big, being abusive, and not having the best technique. also not having it tightened properly

The difference between 150 and 165 is pretty dang subtle in practice. There’s no reason to have another crank length between them.

The thing is I want to upgrade from my suzue hub to splined and can’t afford a profile. I’ve been trying to find a used profile hub for 2 years. (Not kidding)

I ride 150mm nimbus X cranks now and would really like just a little bit of added torque, but not the loss of speed that 165mm delivers. I do think there is a noticeable diff between 160 and 165, but not enough to warrant the huge price difference between profile and moments.

slap these on a KH hub, shim them up to size(only 1mm small), and sell the KH bearings on the trading post.

Are those the correct width?

I thought they were, but when I checked it turns out the bearings are 12mm wide.

I don’t see how people fuss so much over 5mm of crank length. I ride a 24x3 muni with 145mm cranks at school, and a 24x3 muni with 150s at home. I can’t tell the difference. 170s are long, but that’s the only jump I notice.

I don’t notice the difference between 140s, 145s, and 150s, either. Again, why whine about it? You guys do understand that a larger choice of products corresponds to higher general prices, right?

Seager, I might have an extra profile hub for you (depending on whether or not I can resolve the issues I’ve got with my current one). It’s got 170mm cranks on it, though, which aren’t the best, but do the job. E-mail me, and we’ll see what we can figure out. onewheeler (att) gm(removethis)ail (ddot) com

The 40mmvs 42mm bearing issue has already been discussed. the conclusion was that 20mmx40mm bearing are extremely hard to find, and the price of 17x40mm bearings was dramatically higher than that of 20x42mm.

and shims do exist…

I don’t think Kris could afford to order 22x40 bearings

I have no idea what the min. order size for custom ball bearings is. Maybe 5000+, before they could be sold for a reasonable amount. KH doesn’t make bearings and get’s the 22x42 size from Qu-ax, who figured they could supply the whole 22x42 market by getting a huge lot of this custom size from a bearing maker. The number of people who want 22x40 is way smaller. Not that I ever checked, but to make a small run of 100 bearings is likely out of the question in cost.

I think if you take your frame to a machinist, they could hone out your bearing holders to 42 mm for 20 $ or so with a hone. This tool is commonly used to enlarge cylinder bores. It is put on a drill and spins around. If you can find one small enough, it should be a short job to hone out your holders.

Or maybe you can buy one, and get work fixing everyone else’s as well.:slight_smile:


Increasing the inner diameter in a bearing holder is a bad idea.

They are thin enough as it is, I believe if they are honed, it will substantially weaken the frame.

This is what you need

An engine hone is to big, but a brake cylinder bore hone will do fine, and it’s cheap to !:slight_smile:

Because less then 1 mm of metal needs to be removed from the frame and the shell, I would think that plenty of metal would remain to provide strength.

On second thought

A big problem with the hone idea is if there are flanges on the sides of the holders, that may interfere with the hone. I guess it depends on what your holders look like.