Kris Holm frame with q-x disck brake wheel????

I was wondering if the KH frame is compatible with the qx disk brake wheel…

I love KH stuff but I find more safe the inner disk brake.

Anyone tried???

I am not sure if the QX disk hub has a 100mm bearing spacing but I think it does. If it does it will work in conjunction with an adaptor (D’brake or MountainUni UCM). You might also have to remove some material from the inside edge of your bearing housings to make room for the disk bolts.

The existing mounts on the new KH frames are on the wrong side for an internal disk. It might be possible to use them if running the callipers upside down but it would result in interesting brake line routing.

the quax hub is 100mm spacing so it will fit the kh frame, like eric said you may have to grind down a weld or two

The KH (outboard) disc brake system is just as safe as the chain sprocket on mountain/road bikes being on the outside.



The KH outboard disc is quite safe. I’ve had my muni go over cliffs (literally) and the disc was not damaged. I dunno how valid Terry’s analogy is. Bikes and unicycles crash in different ways and with different frequencies.

I think the external disc isn’t too bad for “normal” riding, though I’ve dinged it a few times on my Oracle. But I’m afraid to hop sideways up/down anything with the disc facing the obstacle, since I routinely will hit the crankarm. I’d feel safer with an inside-the-frame disc.

Bicycle chainrings (and derailleurs) are pretty vulnerable, too. I use a bash ring to protect the chainrings, and I always sidehopped away from the derailleur on my trials bike. But I still ripped a few derailleurs off, and the left side crankarm was hilariously chewed up.

Also kind of a bummer that the disc is on my preferred hopping side, even if it’s just a holdover from my bike days.

Both the outboard disc and the chain sprocket are attached to the cranks, so the analogy is sound. Btw, it was Kris himself who made the same analogy to me. I was specifically referring to the question of whether the rider is more or less prone to hitting his/her ankle on the disc/sprocket, but there also doesn’t seem to be any more likelihood of the disc being damaged if the uni is dropped, as compared to an inboard disc.

From your post I’m not sure if you have a standard Oracle with left side, hub mounted (internal) disc or some other setup but in any case I agree that I try to hop up/over stuff with the disc facing away from the obstacle (all my unis have right side, external discs). Still, I’d do the same thing with an internal disc; it’s not any better protected in the area likely to be damaged (below the frame and crank).

This might actually be one of the most compelling reasons to choose one brake mounting system over the other, if you prefer to hop to the left go external (KH/MountainUni); to the right, internal (Oracle/Oregon).

From your post I’m not sure if you have a standard Oracle with left side, hub mounted (internal) disc or some other setup but in any case I agree that I try to hop up/over stuff with the disc facing away from the obstacle (all my unis have right side, external discs). Still, I’d do the same thing with an internal disc; it’s not any better protected in the area likely to be damaged (below the frame and crank).

This might actually be one of the most compelling reasons to choose one brake mounting system over the other so if you prefer to hop to the left go external (KH/MountainUni); to the right, internal (Oracle/Oregon).


My uni has hit the ground hundreds of times, but my bikes rarely if ever hit the ground. Chainrings get bent a lot, which is why folks run bach guards.

As to leg strikes with cranks/sprockets, I am currently nursing a sore ankle from a crank hit, and from years ago I have a nice line of scars from having a bike drop down on my ankle, chainring bite! So adding anything next to your ankle/feet will increase the potential for impacts

But for most folks the external disc brake is fine and even if you do ding the rotor, you can bend it back. I like internal rotors because it is out of the way from my feet. I’d worry less about impacts between the rotor and obstacles as that “area” is well protected by design.

Not to mention, the OP has a “disc wheel”, so an outboard disc brake would be redundant. You will need to do some shimming and/or grinding. I believe someone has already run an internal disc brake on a new KH frame…so you might get a response form someone with experience if you wait long enough.

Also, you could use the Nimbus D Brake adaptor on most any frame and that would work just as well, maybe even easier to set up.

Nimbus Oracle hub + Nimbus D-Brake + KH frame is very fine, I’m using it on my KH26 and as well on my KH29
But need to check if D-Brake or Montainuini are compatible with QX hub

You can find pros & cons to both systems. Both work well. To each his own. I happen to prefer my magura rim brakes.

Terry is right on with the analogy to front chain rings. Billions of bikes have used a front chain ring for over 100 years. That includes BMX and dirt jump bikes where riders are doing tricks such as tail whips, potentially slamming the side of their foot into the crank as they re-catch their pedals and land. If there was an issue with ankles hitting the chain ring , it would have been caught years ago. There is hardly anything more proven in mountain biking.

In the case of the EDB standard, the same setup is simply re-purposed to provide braking power instead of propulsion. The disc rotors, while they do get hot, are smaller, not greasy, and don’t have teeth, so are even less likely to get hit. The caliper is also positioned over a key part of the rotor at the back.

Of course, I do suggest tucking your pant legs and shoelaces in for any kind of unicycling, regardless of disc brakes.

In the case of damaged bike chain rings - this happens for sure, but not in a way that has any relevance for unicyciling - typically damage happens when the rotor high centers over something (e.g. when rolling off a drop).

In the case of damaged rotors, of course this is a possibility but there’s no difference here between hub and EDB setups. I’ve ridden with a disc brake for almost 2 years and have yet to damage a rotor, despite perhaps hundreds of bails. I have heard of one person who felt they hit the EDB rotor on mounting, but they were in the habit of standing on the crank to mount. Something to think about perhaps if you do this too.

Here are the most fundamental pros of hub-mount and EDB standard systems, in my view - both are good and it’s up to the rider to judge what balance of priorities they prefer:

  1. Hub-mount: greatest selection of riding stances (e.g. choice of cranks with no outwards flare (e.g. Nimbus, Qu-Ax), or moderate outwards flare (e.g. KH)). Slightly more caliper clearance for mechanical disc brakes although with the advent of road bike disc brakes, more mechanical narrow profile systems will be available for 2014.
  2. EDB: lightest and strongest system for a given hub standard, with true compatibility across every wheel size from 24" to 36", using a standard (100 mm) hub. The only setup potentially compatible with geared hubs.

As it happens, there is a page going live later today in support of the EDB standard. Check this link in a few hours:


Yeah, sorry, I conflated the idea of the inboard disc being tucked away more safely, with all muni disc systems nonetheless feeling pretty vulnerable to me, so it came out wrong. Even with my inboard system (Oracle) I don’t like hopping to my left (preferred :frowning: ) side.

Good point about taking your preferred hopping direction into account before you choose systems!

Here’s the EDB page, live now:

Awesome Kris, thanks for posting the info!

IMO the two biggest factors are your hop direction and if u think u might upgrade to a geared hub. To me it’s obvious that an internal hub is safer to damage and the rider, at the cost of some strength/weight, but I’ll take Kris’s word that the difference is negligible.

Personally I’d go internal. There is VERY little chance I’ll ever get a G-hub and I’d take that slight safety increase since I UPD a lot and numerous times I’ve landed on the side of the wheel.

Im not afraid of getting hit by the disc rotor…

Is just the rocks and jumps, Ive repaired hundreds of times the traditional magura brake… Im bleeding oli… I dont want to brake it again :frowning:

Also the old ones may remember the q factor issue…

And last but not least the pedal thread of the cranks… I travel arround with my muni and I dont know hoy it is going to end playing with the pedals do much…

In my mind I preffer inner disc… but I love KH unicycles… :frowning:

bouin-bouin: Did you check if the frame mount is compatible with the nimbus disc? (i dont care turning the frame to switch the mount side if necessary…) I dont know the name of the brake adaptor needed for the KH frame… (also I dont know which is the correct one)

Thanks kris for the EDB page is full of info, just great!!

Having your disc on the outside of the frame vs the inside of the frame is just what kind of bling factor you like. I honestly like how the internal disc system looks. Ive smacked it before on rocks and logs and never had an issue. The part I have an issue with is the D-brake system. That thing moves around every ride and is a pain in the ass. And yes I do tighten it the proper way. Now the part is bent inward so it rubs on the disc.

The only way you are going to damage your disc is from falls and bails. Not from riding itself unless you go out of your way and try to hit it. I have virtually have had hundreds of nasty falls on all types of terrain. The internal disc setup survived the northshore, minus the D-brake adapter. It has survived falls off cliffs. Down boulder ridden hills, rock gardens.

If I were you I would trust whole heartly in KH products. Kris test out all of his gear where world renowned bike companies test their gear before they release it to the public.

Another system I would suggest is the Mad4one internal disc brake hub. I love this system a lot cause its light and because you can change cranks out and not have to worry about the disc. If you travel a lot I think you will like the weight savings. Every pound counts when you are trying to pack all your gear into a suitcase! Another thing is that all Mad4one cranks have ZERO q-factor, which I personally enjoy for when you are spinning down a mountain side. Feels a lot more stable to me.


Jacob - thanks for the kind words.

One thing to note, as well:
In my experience, perhaps the most vulnerable part of a brake setup is the lever, regardless of what braking system is used (exceptions being levers mounted mid-way along a touring handle or if they are well shielded by bar ends, perhaps) . It doesn’t happen often, but it is definitely possible to smack the lever when your unicycle goes down. That is the case regardless of braking type.

I saw that in action last weekend with my friend Ryan’s uni - sent spinning through the air to a hard landing on the North Shore. EDB disc was just fine. The brake lever was already bent from a previous wipeout - luckily still perfectly functional and undamaged from this particular wipeout.

Ultimately I think we do need to have some reasonable tolerance for this kind of wear and tear. Mountain unicycles are so much less fragile than bikes!

@Monociclos re pedal threads - the super tough 7050AL is holding up very well without steel inserts. I would say the chance of stripped threads is lower than the chance of a loose insert.

Re Q-factor - I think this debate will go on forever. There are reasons on both sides and everyone seems to have a different opinion. Hence why variety is a good thing.