Hi there, I’ve found out that the bearings on my Koxx hub are rattling, so its new bearings time! But, I need to take the cranks off, I’ve tried the old 5p coin trick with a standard square taper crankpuller, but as the Koxx hub is not proper ISIS, it doesn’t work!
How exactly is it done? I don’t want to resort to smacking it with a hammer and wood at all… What method must be used in conjunction with a standard square taper crank puller? Genuine ISIS systems such as on the KH Moment Hub and MTB bottom brackets, can take 5p coins to use as washers to press against whilst using a square taper crank puller.
UDC and MDC, any ideas?
Oh and lastly: Does the UK unicycle.com or Municycle.com sell spare bearings for the Koxx hub? Or whatever size that fits? I badly need them for the London ride this sunday!
I dont belive your trouble is with the koxx not being true isis. You need a isis puller. Danscomp carrys them. Look around at online bmx shops near you to find one, Its a normla crankpuller but the plug is huge. I tryed pulling koxx cranks with a normal puller once, i used 5 dimes stacked, it punched a hole in every dime and put the heads of Roosevelt into the threads of the hub.
Oh man this took me forever to do but its actualy pretty simple.
You will need three things;
a standard crank puller (like for a square taper hub)
a washer that fits completely through the hole in the hub but has a hole smaller than the plunger on the crank puller.
and a wrench that fits your crank puller.
Once the allen key bolt is out just toss the washer ontop of the axle so that when you screw the crank puller down to push it will push against the washer and the washer will in turn push the axle.
Then just toss your crank puller on and use it as if it were a square taper hub.
I found that my left crank was really on tightly and no amount of prying would get it off but when I did this trick it popped off as easily as a square taper crank.
The biggest problem is that one of the bearings are loose, sorta… Well, let me explain:
The bearing is made of 3 pieces if you look at it side-on: The smallest silver ring that touches the hub spindle, then the black rubber layer, and then the biggest silver ring which touches against the frame.
Now, basically, the 2 bigger parts of the bearing are wobbling a bit against the smallest ring. If this can be repaired, then new bearings aren’t gonna be as crucial.
How much are they moving? I used to have loads of play in my skateboard bearings but they always worked fine, and my uni has some play in it, although not a ton, and they have yet to pop.
i had that problem. there is nothing wrong with your bearings…i figured this out last week.
your casing are just too loose. tighten up your bearing casings and the problem will go away. dont tighten them up too much… make sure they arent too tight by spinning the wheel. if they are too tight the wheel wont spin freely.
I think he’s talking about the bearing clamps. The dust shields on your bearings aren’t adjustable at all.
The metal parts on your bearings are called “races”. The rubber is just a shield that presses into the inner race, and rubs the outer to keep the bad stuff out. Play between these is normal. When your bearings are going bad, you’ll hear a grinding noise.
I’ve been riding with bad bearings in my freestyle uni for ages.
bad news… borrowed a little ISIS converter plug from a friend, which is meant to make square taper crankpullers able to push against ISIS axles, thus pulling the cranks off…
But, just like the 5 pence coin, this plug is the TINIEST bit too big to slot into the splined area inside the crank to push against the axle. So basically, as Koxx isn’t genuine ISIS, I don’t think ISIS pullers are going to work…
The only other solution is the old hammer and wood, but that’s gonna be quite bad for my wheel…
But, there are so many people out there with koxx cranks, just how do they manage?
Are you sure it’s too big? The first time I took off splined cranks with a crank puller (on my bike, but still…) I thought the plug was too big, but I just kept turning the wrench, and eventually, the crank popped off.
So, is it really too big? Does it fit in, but you’re afraid it’s not hitting the right parts, or does it completely not thread into the cranks?
Leo got a bolt with the same thread as the axle and machined down the head so that it would screw into the axle without holding the crank on. Then he used a normal square taper crank removal tool.
Depends on how much effort you are prepared to go to.
