id get some but like wouldn’t when its in 120 mode thered be huge nems that catch your food
Me too, silver w/ those measurements. Is that doable?
Just for repitition, I would like them if possible 130, 150, 170. Silver or blue. I have been looking for another set of Kookas for a while now. Where did you find five sets of them?
Thanks, Dan
Tis a risk. But anyone proficient at unicycling (avoiding ankle hits) shouldn’t have a problem. The bigger risk would be catching on long pant legs and shoe laces. I don’t ride the Coker with long pants and I always tuck in my shoe laces so I’m not worried about it.
I was just about to order the daVinci three hole cranks. The daVinci’s are more expensive. I also like the look of the Kookas better than the daVinci’s.
It looks like the Seattle Area RiderS are going to have a corner on this Kooka order.
not in that pic i saw and commented on in the Moab muni pic’s thread, your laces were all out and ready for buisness…
here is the tread J_C, what do you have to say for those huge laces?
Harper, Tellurider, John Childs, Tom Blackwood - I got you covered.
Harper - 120, 145, 170 Blue
Tellurider - 130, 150, 170 Silver or Blue
John Childs - 130, 150, 170 Silver
Tom Blackwood - 130, 150, 170 Silver
I think i can get an additional 3 sets if anyone else is interested. I’ll confirm as soon as i know.
That’s muni. I’m not worried about laces getting caught on the muni. The Coker is a very different story. I always tuck the laces in on the Coker. I only sometimes tuck the laces in for muni. I almost always tuck the laces in for freestyle.
I just secured 3 more sets of Kookas. I will sell at least 2 more sets.
Update:
Harper - 120, 145, 170 Blue
Tellurider - 130, 150, 170 Silver or Blue
John Childs - 130, 150, 170 Silver
Tom Blackwood - 130, 150, 170 Silver
Muddycycle - 120, 145, 170 Blue or Silver
Cayennez - ?
My “professional” bike mechanic turned out to be less then professional. I gave him the initial 2 sets of Kookas to him to drill and tap, one for me and one for Harper. This is a reputable bike shop here in town, and I was assured that it would be “no problem” to have done. Well after he got into it and found it was more than he could handle he got a most proficient machinist to finish the one set and completely do the other. The set done by the machinist is perfect. The set he finished for the bike guy, he did one crank completely which is perfect, and the other that he finished he could not make perfect. The 2 holes in the left crank are useable but not perfectly perpendicular. CRAP If someone wants these (blue) ones. $100 including shipping.
This bike guy was charging me $20 a set to drill and tap. (guess I should have known by that) Well I spoke with the machinist today for over an hour. He is a very interesting guy and a perfectionist and an artist. http://www.helveticadesigns.com/HELVETICA_bio.htmlHe will do the 6 remaining sets I have left for $65 each, this includes buying 2 quality taps (which he said the bike guys were not). I would really like to have him do them after seeing his work and the precision equipment he has. He guaranteed that his holes would as or more precise then the ones drilled by Kooka. And judging from his work and equipment I believe him.
I will then need to get $185 including delivery for the drilled Kookas. I’m sorry about this and understand if you want out, but I don’t want to take a lesser route after my first experience. Let me know if you are still interested. Here are pics of the finished cranks done by the machinist.
Here are pics of the blue ones that the bike guy drilled less then perfect on being perpendicular on the left crank. Also the back hole is not centered on the crank. He won’t be touching my remaining Kookas. You can see where I screwed in the pedals and one side of the shoulder hit before the other.
So if the pedal hole isn’t drilled perfectly perpendicular wouldn’t it be pretty much the same as riding with a bent pedal? That isn’t that big of a deal, after riding for a little bit you don’t notice anymore. I would think about getting them but I don’t own a cotterless uni.
I’ll take the bad, blue ones. The extra drilling was just a bonus as far as I was concerned.
-Greg
Harper - Your set will be in the mail today - 120, 145, 170 Blue
I’m gonna go ahead and order the taps today.
I have 6 sets, 2 Blue and 4 Silver.
Spoken for are:
Tellurider - 130, 150, 170 Silver
John Childs - 130, 150, 170 Silver
So still available: 2 Blue and 2 Silver.
It will be at least a week before these get drilled and tapped.
tomblackwood, muddycycle, and cayennez have first dibs.
If I don’t get any further custom orders I’ll drill 2 at 120mm, 145mm, 170mm and 2 at 130mm. 150mm, 170mm
After speaking with Walter the machinist who is also an avid cyclist I learned alot about what’s involved in a seemingly simple operation. I’m glad that I’ll be able to confidently turn out a product that will stand up to professional scrutiny.
This all started when I thought I would get some Davinci cranks but didn’t like the way they looked. So when I found this horde of Kookas I thought, “hey I’ll make some of these gems available to the unicycle community, and cut the cost of my set”. Now it’s become a project and a learning experience with a bunch of money tied up. Well i’m enjoying it and in the long run if they all sell, I will have achieved both goals.
I’ll take a Silver set drilled at 120mm, 145mm, 170mm
Update:
Tellurider - 130, 150, 170 Silver
John Childs - 130, 150, 170 Silver
Tom Blackwood - 130, 150, 170 Silver
Muddycycle - 120, 145, 170 Silver
Silvers are all spoken for. 2 Blue sets available.
Please let me know if you get another set of black cranks - the silver and blue don’t really go with my uni. 
I can get them sandblasted and powdercoated for $20