Hi Scott,
All I’m advocating is a bike like position, which means arms slightly bent when your body is at about 40-45degrees. If the bar is too upright, your elbows are very bent and hands up against your chest, which doesn’t give you any leverage at all. A bit like riding the Graeme Obree time trial position…if you see T7 riders going fast, they look like that. I think the bar should be at the same level or slightly lower than the seat when riding…same as a bike.
No, the square frame is pretty good as far as square frames go. I only brushed it a couple of times, so probably not an issue.
Thanks for the write-up! Returning after a long absence from the forums, it was good to see a discussion of awesome distance unicycles right on the front page 
I will have pretty much the same set up as you Ken.
Differences will be: I will have one of those heavy KH rail adapters because it is the one way I have found to use a brake with the GB4s. I cut down the brake post some so it didnt interfere with the GB4, and then put a cut down bar end on the brake post, and then put another bar end on the first bar end to get the angle right and the brake position is pretty good.
If you figure out a better way to use a brake with your KH/Schlumpf 36 with GB4s let me know because then I can eliminate the added weight of the rail adapter and use one of Kris’ new posts.
I will be also starting out with the KH dual drilled 150/125 moments, and I will use MG-1s. I would like to use lighter cranks like your qu-ax ones, but I too am afraid of the no-q factor with those buttons. I may eventually get some onza tensiles 140mm if I think I can get away with shorter cranks than 150s with the huge gear.