KH24x3 vs. Yuni 24x3

Hey Guys,

Over the last few weeks I was debating whether to buy the KH 24x3 or the Yuni 24x3 and am thinking about going with the Yuni. I was wondering if there are any big reasons anyone sees for why I should go with the KH? I read some of the other postings made, but I am pretty light (about 130lbs) and plan on doing drops of a few feet… so I’m not sure how transferable the advice is (?). The main thing keeping me from the KH is that deal with the cranks–anybody have any idea when/if the redesign will take place?

Also, if I do go with the Yuni, are there any upgrades that I should get for it? Specifically, should I go with the doublewide or gazz upgrade I can get while ordering?

Thanks in advance for any advice you may have…

Matt

I have the Yuni with the 24 inch Gazz and double wide rim. It works alright but wish I had went for the KH. The upgrades lifted the price to $400, almost the same as the KH ($450). But the Yuni frame has a hairs breath of clearance on the sides of the 3.0 Gazz. FIne for riding until your rim is slightly out of true. After your first serious trailride(s) you will probably have some ruubbing. Even if you don’t get rubbing, You will get frustrated after you first REALLY muddy ride. The thick mud will cake onto your frame until the tire won’t turn. I had one trip this spring where I rode 1/2 way around green mountain trail near Denver, the far side was thick mud. Stuff I had riden my mountain bike through so I thought I’d be fine on the MUni but I was mistaken. I would have to stop and clear the tire out 3-4 time over 1/2 mile of trail till I just had to bag it for the day and walk to lower ground and ride the road 2 miles back to the car.

Yeah, the Gazz fits the Yuni frame but just barely. If I could do it again, I would have gone for the KH. Stonger build, more room for the tire.


My first post in ages. How ya guys been?

Ed

the KH frame alone is a huge improvement for unicyclists world wide.

its got brake mounts,better bearing holders,better crown,fatter seat tube diameter (thin seat posts bite big-time)

yeah its got more mud clearance,but for that thick sticky mud you dont want a 3 inch tyre anyway.

get the KH…

Get the KH muni and some 661 Ankle Biters.

If you’re going to be riding it hard it is worth it to have a unicycle that can take the abuse. Being able to trust that your unicycle will not break during a ride is priceless. With splined cranks you can be very confident that you are not going to suffer a loose or bent crank during a ride. Square taper cranks are a PITA on a muni and a point of eventual failure or mid-ride disappointment when the crank comes loose.

Kris had mentioned that it could be a while before the new crank design becomes a reality. There is not guarantee that it will actually happen either.

If you have the funds you can fit a Profile hub and cranks in the Taiwanese KH muni frame. It requires a shim in the bearing holder because the Taiwanese KH frame uses 42mm bearing holders rather than the 40mm bearing holders as on the KH Pro frame. A soda can shim will do the trick.

Thanks for the advice. I don’t know how I missed them before, but I never even noticed the ankle biters there… if I did get the KH, do you think the Gazz upgrade would be worth it?

Thanks again…

Just wanted to clarify something mkuhfahl…

I was the one that mentioned the Yuni Muni to Chirokid. And the only reason I did was because I’m a big guy and due to certain circumstances I am riding a 24" yuni freestyle model that has been converted to a muni model. If I had it to do all over again I too would be riding a KH 24. I was just letting him know that I was big and my unicycle ain’t broke yet (well after some modifications). The fact is, once you convert a unicycle to a muni you’ll keep it that way until you have another muni so you might as well go with the KH 24 and get the real thing right off the bat.

Ahhhhh. I feel better now.

matt

The Ankle Biters are a good thing. They turn low tops in to armored high tops. Highly recommended.

I have not seen any reviews comparing the Gazzaloddi with the Duro Wildlife Leopard. I would love to see a review comparing the Gazz and the Duro because I don’t know how they compare head to head. I’m sure they each have their advantages for particular situations. Unfortunately without a head to head review it is hard to know the advantages and disadvantages of each tire compared to each other.

consider a review on its way, tomorow (or the day after) my flatmate and myself will be getting two brand new KH24" from unicycle.co.nz my one will have the Gazza and my flatmates has the Doro wildlife on it. We both have hydrolic breaks so the review will also include some info on how they act under breaking. When the unis arive and we have a chance to go for a big ride i will write something down to help your decision, should only take a day or two. I got the Gazza because its better safe than sorry, if you can afford it get the Gazza, whats the point in getting something unless its the best? (In your price range that is, hence im not getting a KH pro :stuck_out_tongue: )

http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27143

The above link touched on just that^

I’ll ramble a bit about it here too:
The Duro is a round profile tire, plenty knobby and very bouncy. It will offer a bit more clearance than the 3.0 Gazz would in an identical frame, it’s lighter and would be a good alternative for a fork that won’t accept a 3.0 Gazz. I’m fairly certain the Duro Wildlife is the same tire as the Halo Contra with different markings.

But in my opinion it doesn’t compare to the Gazz for the type of riding and trails I encounter. It has that tippy feel that you can get from a Hookworm, not what I want to feel on the trail. I didn’t experiment much with pressures though and I’m sure it would’ve performed better for me had a lessened it. The square profile of the Gazz puts so much tread on the trail and that is my main complaint with the Duro, the roundness of the design just doesn’t have the feeling of stability that I get with the Gazz.
Don’t get me wrong, it works great for lots of riders and I’m not saying it’s worthless, I just think the Gazz is great.
The Duro isn’t bad on pavement ( not nearly as sluggish as the Gazz ) for a knobby tire and may be a better choice for those wanting a more versatile “do-it-all set up”. It would IMHO be a comprimise for both applications but I’m sure could be perfect for lots of riders.
The Gazz sets the bar very high, so I’m more singing the praises of the Gazz rather than bashing the Duro.

-Frank

I’ve only ever used the Halo Contra/Duro on my muni and I’ve always been happy with it.

I spend more time on pavement than off road so it’s a good compromise for me, it’s also £12 cheaper than the Gazz in the uk.

I guess if you’re doing pure off roading then the Gazz is what you need, but for hybrid stuff the Dura is great.

Sweet! :slight_smile:
But don’t rush the review. Put enough time on each tire in different terrain so you get to know how they compare.

Some things to watch for:
How well do they turn. For example on pavement, on the trail, on tight switchback turns, on swoopy XC turns at higher speed, etc.
How do they compare for traction while climbing?
How do they compare for traction while descending?
How do they compare for pecking up a hill?
How do they compare for jumping?
How do they compare for landing drops?
How do they compare rolling over roots and rocks?
How do they compare in loose sand and loose dirt?

Thanks for all the advice! James, I am real curious to see the results of that little review… I think those questions john_childs asked pretty much sums it all up…

Right now, I’m thinking that I’ll get the KH with the standard tire, and maybe upgrade to the gazz myself after the fact or when I blow my tire…

Matt

For now i would just get the standard tire, for the price unicycle dot com charges for the upgrade it isn’t worth it. If it was $20 or $30 then it would be.

Sorry unicycle dot com but its just too expencive.