I’ve read the odd article about the Nimbus 29".Anyone got anything to offer on the KH XC 29"?
I’ve currently a Nimbus 24" with a Hookworm Road Tyre. Good for moving around Bristol’s Cycle Track. Given the chance I’d be happy to pedal off-road.
Now with the odd Hill to contend with, is a 29" Wheel difficult to pedal upwards. Gradient varies of course.
I’m asking because on a Cycle track I can’t keep up with my Wife on her Mountain Bike, she isn’t pedalling too hard either!
The Head says a Nimbus 29" is probably the best choice. Anyone got anything possitive to offer on the KH.
Does the Crank size make a big difference too?
Oh one other question, is mounting, idling and hopping easy on a 29". I’m a rolling mount bod. Uni is pulled backward into me as I mount with pedal just above the 6 O’clock position.
I just got the KH29 and am very pleased woth it! Great quality and Fast! I can actually hear the spokes cut through the air! Very easy to balance and attacks hills with ease! Pay the extra and get the KH over the Nimbus. I have to say that that small details such as the frame welding the solid alluminum magura brake mounts and the bearing clamps really turn me on! In addition the frame design itself is really clean and well designed. I have put on v brake addaptors and V-Brakes on mine because I go that fast. I can outride any female biker on my KH29 and even many male bikers.
I went from a 20" learner (with very long cranks) to a Nimbus 29er. For some time it seemed very big, hard to control and with a tendancy to follow the road crown. But gradually I got the hang of it, and ended up really liking it.
I don’t think you’ll probably mind not having a splined hub - doesn’t sound like you’ll need the strength because I don’t you’ll be doing drops or otherwise landing heavily on the wheel. The BA tyre is possibly better for riding on road than the Kenda on the KH, and I’ve found that for cross country paths it’s reasonable as well (as long as it’s not muddy, anyhow).
As for hills, it depends how steep and how long. Gradual hills are not going to be a problem once you get used to it. The steepest hill I ride is a highly arched humpback bridge on my way to work - riding it on the 29er or on a Coker is fine as long as I have enough speed and nothing gets in my way
Downhills take a bit of practice because if you go too fast it’s hard to stop the big wheel continuing to spin quickly - but once you’re used to it it’s not bad.
Finally, the Nimbus is cheap, it’ll let you find out whether you like big wheels, and you can always stick longer cranks and a Kenda Klaw on it if you want to venture off road more. Put shorter cranks on and you’ll be able to hit some pretty high speeds on road.
Sorry to say this, but you’re all wrong, why?
The KH 29er is a very good unicycle, it has a splined hub/crankset, an aluminium frame, and a very good KH rim.
However,
29ers are made for cross-country unicycling, you won’t have any big drops, so you don’t need the extra strength of the splined cranks. I have a KH 24" and a light cross MUni (KH rim + Suzue hub) myself and I love my 29er, even after ‘extreme’ use my united cotterless cranks didn’t bend a millimeter. I doubt there’s much difference in the weight, seeing as having a cotterless hub saves you some weight, and the Nimbus frame isn’t a very heavy one.
I see that this is an old forum…but shrugs
so, united square taper cranks are okay for xc / light muni with no significant drops/hops(less than 4")?
would a trainer 29" single wall rim be okay too…? or would getting a nimbus dominater 2 rim be more worth it for its price?
I’m looking at 29" $360 nimbus drak or waiting for $155 trainer
I have a Nimbus 29 Road Unicycle. It is basically the Drak with a single walled rim. It has an ISIS hub. I use it for Muni (with a Maxxis Ardent tire) and the rim is a little out of true. I’d start with the Drak and see what you want to upgrade after you’ve had it a while. I’ve had no issues with the Nimbus.
