All right guys, I asked for a “Big Boy Muni” in an earlier post. Remember, I am 265 pounds. That’s like a million kilos or so!
Looks like my choices are either a stock KH 24" Muni…
a Yuni frame like Matt (myocardial) posted. Matt has a Yuni with Sun BFR Double Walled Rim, Suzue 36 hole high flange hub, KH Velo seat, Arrow Racing Savage 24X3 DH tire, and KOOKA (unbendable)170 mm cranks.
I will end up spending about the same for either Muni, so… here are the pros and cons I need help sorting out.
If I break a KH crank, is there any alternatives for replacement besides another stock KH crank? The KH hub uses an 8 spline crank. Do I have replacement options with a 8 spline? I couldn’t find anything on Unicycle.com except stock.
The Yuni would have a Suzue HF Hub, which uses a square hole crank, and I could upgrade to the Kooka crank if (when) I destroy the stock crank.
So, help me, which way would you go, and why? Also, is a KH seat and a KH Velo Seat the same thing? Thanks in advance. --chirokid–
are you planning to do drops on this uni? if so, you will most likely break a suzue hub if you have kooka cranks. I think someone found a bmx crank that would fit the KH hub, but I dont remember who/what it was. the main advantage of the kh uni is that it will have a much stronger hub, which will always be the weak point if your using kooka cranks.
I think I may be the one you’re referring to. I added DM Engineering splined cranks to my KH24 sig series. I didn’t do it for strength though, rather it was a simple matter of ergonomics. I kept striking my heel on the barrel protrusion of the KH cranks. I think those cranks are near bullet proof for strength. I agonized over the Yuni/Profile setup or the KH24 for some time before I purchased but I don’t regret my choice one bit. I just didn’t like the KH crank design. I think the KH24 is a great uni.
I would go with the KH24. I’ve got a Yuni Muni and weigh 180 pounds. I haven’t done any drops or hops and have had to realign the fork legs 3 times in less than 6 months. Hopefully the KH24 has a stronger frame
You better get the splined hub, check infinite illusions yoyo and juggling supplies to see if they are selling any yet, you might save enough cash to buy some milk for the kids. If I can snap an ordinary hub at 170 pounds, then you will mangle them, and one relace job will cost as much time and money as getting a bombproof one in the first place.
Hey, are you going to Hugofest, [hint, hint]? It’s a juggling festival held in September at Davidson College just North of Charlotte North Carolina. There is camping and crash space in the lodge, plenty of weirdos doing wild things, and some very nice trails behind the football fields. Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested and I will forward you the details. carjug at yahoo
Yes it was an expensive upgrade but well worth it. I found other BMX cranks with the same spine pattern but only in 150 mm and that’s just a tad short when I wanted a pair of 170’s. I’m pretty sure that the DM cranks are the only alternative in 170 mm for the 8 spline pattern of the KH hub. Frank A. and I both did our homework and came up empty handed except for DM E.- which are awsome but expensive.
Keep in mind that you may not have a problem with the KH crank style. Some people do and some don’t. Unfortunately I did so I had to go for an alternative.
>I would go with the KH24. I’ve got a Yuni Muni and weigh 180 pounds. I
>haven’t done any drops or hops and have had to realign the fork legs 3
>times in less than 6 months. Hopefully the KH24 has a stronger frame
I would purchase the KH24 too. I own a Yuni MUni only because the KH24
wasn’t available a year ago.
However, Krashin’Kenny’s frame realignment issue is unusual I think.
The Yuni frame is quite strong. I weigh 155 lbs and do a lot of
forceful climbing; drops only up to a measly 12". Frame is as straight
as ever though, I’ve had it for one year now. I’m more afraid of crank
and hub failure and that is where the KH24 wins.
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
“the helmet is to protect the brain, not replace it. - iunicycle”
First, KH seat and a KH Velo Seat are the same thing. Kris Holm himself once has mentioned that KH seat can be marked diffently according to different manufactor. Even Qu-Ax Muni has same Velo seat but has name QU-AX on it.
For the KH muni and Yuni with suzue hub muni, I believe this
picture can help you to decide, although they are not the exact things you have in mind. I have named those DH muni and XC muni each. More picture can be seen here. Cheers!.
I just did a quick look at DansComp.com to see what cranks they have. It looks like there are two 170 mm cranks there that look like they have the same 8 spline pattern as the KH hub. You can’t tell much from the pictures if the cranks will fit on the KH hub or not.
Do you know if you looked at those to cranks to see if they would fit the KH hub?
In any event, Kris has mentioned that he is looking in to getting the cranks redesigned to be more ankle friendly. No guaranty that it’s going to actually happen, but I’d consider it a good thing if it did. Until then it will be necessary to look at other crank alternatives for those who need a more ankle friendly design.
I hate to even open this can of worms again but I called on the POW cranks when I was lookling for alt. cranks and I belive they were the ones with a 10 spline pattern. I believe the same is true for most BMX cranks. If you start making phone calls you’ll find that there aren’t any 170’s that will fit the KH Hub’s “8 spline” pattern. I’ve been there and done that. Frank A., myself and others were all looking high and low and had a rather long bantering here on the list. 'Nuf said.
I have a BFR on my MUni and it is lightweight and strong. It’s forte’ seems to be light MUni. Climbing and short drops are fine, but the minute I go into hopping or gapping on the trail, I have problems with tire foldover. This is worse when the ground is uneven, or even slanted. For example, when you want to hop up on a railroad tie step and the ground in front of it is not level. I weigh 160 lbs and usually ride with 18 psi. More PSI at , say 22 psi, helps reduce the tire foldover, but I have trouble getting the bounce out of the tire at 22 psi at that pressure. I can gap a little over two feet at 18 psi, but the tire folds immediately on take off which eats up precious energy.
By years end, I hope to have a new MUni without a Suzue hub and a wider rim.
In summary, based on my intermediate level of experience, you may want a wider rim. I think that would help out. With your weight, even with running psi in the low 20’s you may still get foldover.
I am curious if Myocardial has experienced tire foldover issues.
The suzue hub won’t take drops off a curb height for long, IMHO, with 265 sitting on top. Relacing a hub is expensive. Buy with room to grow.
There will be an alternative hub. Scott Bridgman(MUniac.com) will be creating an online store for some high end MUni products. One of which is a strong and lightweight hub that uses a modified four taper on the axle. He has had really good results with this setup mated to a set of KOOkas. I have already lined up to purchase one of these hubs. I suggest you Email him at scott (at) muniac(dot)com or post to the message board at muniac.com for his opinion if this setup might work for you.
I’m not surprised that you have tire foldover at 18 psi. I get tire foldover at 18 psi and I’ve got a really wide Avro Zum Eliminator rim that’s about 44 mm wide. I usually ride with around 22 psi to 24 psi to avoid tire foldover when pecking up a hill and other side hopping maneuvers. I lower the pressure a bit sometimes depending on the terrain, but for most of my riding it’s right around 22 psi.