KH Moments?

ok thanks… i think

Koxx one rider

3 mm isn’t a problem. The fact that the KH- Nimbus- Qu ax ISIS is not interchangeable with Koxx ISIS is gonna bug you a lot more than the 3 mm. I could be wrong, but I don’t think that has been straightened out yet.

Okay well since this thread is alive again I have one more question… Since i now already know the good crank size for trials, whats the best size for muni? m guessing its 150… is this correct?

With lots of up and down hills, I recommend 165’s. If you have lots of hills and a brake, maybe 150s, and if the terrain is fairly level with some occsional hills, 150s are good.

I recently swopped my standard cranks for a pair of KH 137 moments. Apart from being more robust I like the slight Q-factor than the straight ones I replaced.

I am considering buying some twin-hole Moments but I’m not sure what these would be like to use. If the pedal is screwed in to make a shorter crank there will be a small ‘stub’ left protruding where the extra hole is. Isn’t this distracting whilst riding? Why doesn’t everyone use twin-hole instead of the standard Moments if they get two options from twin-hole? The slight extra cost is not that much?

I wanted to use 150/125 on my coker, for smooth’ish offroad tracks and faster road use. Should I opt for seperate 150 and 125 or get twin hole? Anyone talk from experience of using twin-hole Moments?

If you get the Double-hole cranks, you dont have to bring two pairs of cranks with you, and you dont have to change the cranks witch is longuer than just change the pedal. Plus it costs less to buy 1 pair of double-hole cranks than buy 2 pairs of cranks.

@jaco, you missed the question…

“If the pedal is screwed in to make a shorter crank there will be a small ‘stub’ left protruding where the extra hole is. Isn’t this distracting whilst riding?”

oh, sorry, I cant really help you for that, I dont have a pair of double-holes cranks. But I dont think it will discract when you ride, the little ‘stub’ should be around 1 inche long or even shorter, so if your foot is placed correctly on the pedal it shouldn’t distract you while riding. I hope it helped now.

Yes, I had 125s for street but switched to 137s because trials was harder. 125s are better for street IMO (smoother, faster flips) but 137s are better for both.


i got the 137’s and my mate’s got them and they are brilliant they quite good for all around unicycling

ive used 125’s and 137s for trials and dont understand how the 125’s are harder, personally i find them easier for skinnies, and i find 114’s really good for skinnies :smiley: (freestyle uni) no idea why
whats the reasoning behind 125’s harder?

Thanks, I guess if the long end of the crank isn’t hitting your foot, the short stub wouldn’t either…

I’m using 125/150 dual hole cranks on my 29er. I guess long pants or shoelaces could get caught on the nub, but I have not had any problems with it so far.

When switching from 137 to 125, you have to push on the pedals with almost 10% more force to apply the same amount of torque to the wheel. With 137’s the wheel is more responsive to your movements, and you might have a tendency to ride with more of a jerky motion that throws off your balance on skinnies.