KH Moment Ti Hub

I broke one fall 2010, problem appears to be spline flex originating at the KH laser cut outs. If you are over one year since purchased, your hub will not be warranteed, but you can get a “discount” (woohoo). And yeah, that is not cool. I spend a bunch of money buying the best hub made only for it to break 14 months later, then I’m told I gotta pay even more money to get another Ti hub, which will also break??? Fotunately UDC took pity on me and gave me a 2010 KH Chromoloy Hub (read below for more on that)

I also have one of the original Ti hubs on my 36er, gawd forbid that it break also, because not only is the breakage a “walk home” issue, but relacing the wheel is a hassle!

And yeah, there is a problem with the new KH hubs, the hub and spindle can loosen, then they start to squeajk and ultimately fail. My KH Ti replacement hub, a 2010 KH Chromoly hub developed squeaking, it was supposedly fixed when they added to split pins through the hub body and spindle, and yet it’s squeaking. The same design on the chromoly and Ti spindled hubs…

I’m under warranty, but this unlacing and relacing business is getting old quick :angry:

Hey,

To clarify- the internal (not visible) section of the spindle in Moment hubs was redesigned for 2011. The new design has a much longer spline section at the interface with the flange. Strength at this interface is very strong - stronger actually than the ISIS spline due to the very large diameter. The change occured last November in the CrMo hubs, and will take longer to phase in for the Ti hubs due to the much smaller sales in the latter. Any creaking in the Ti hubs will be taken care of within the warranty period.

The tight pressfit of the flanges on the new longer splines should prevent both squeaking and any lateral movement of the flanges. However, as a just-in-case measure (with regard to lateral movement), I added small pins across the flange-spindle interface (which also lock the flanges to the centre hub body). Otherwise, it’s the splines, not the pins, that hold the flanges. This new design also slightly reduces weight.

The advantage of this setup is that you can use high strength aluminum in the flanges where it’s most effective (e.g. lighter material than Ti that can be better shaped for spoke support, and no potential weld issues), and CrMo or Ti where it’s most effective, in the spindle. Flange size also has a huge effect on both wheel strength and longterm wheel durability, and this setup allows the flange dimensions to be optimized in terms of both wheel durability and weight.

Kris

Thank for the explanation Kris. I really appreciate the way you are so responsive to your customers and that you are continually advancing unicycle technology.

Can’t wait to get my 36 back.

Inherent Flaw?

Is there any way to read this thread and NOT conclude that the original welded hub is inherently flawed? I REALLY want to trust the hub, but even though I’m a pretty tame rider (nearly all distance riding), I’m big (230 lbs.).

I don’t intend this as a dig at KH products – frankly, it’s because I’m so impressed with his products that I want so much to be able to trust it.

Not to refer you back to your username :), but what Kris said (back in December 2008 mind you) was that the hub pictured looked like it had a defect in the weld. Based on the very small quantities in a production run of those, I assume they are welded by hand. Nobody’s perfect, but Kris will make you whole.

Right now I’m waiting for Florian Schlumpf to repair my (even more expensive) hub. I don’t know if this is even considered warranty service; I haven’t heard anything from him. But it won’t stop me from being a fan. I know Florian cares about his product and his customers, and this is definitely true of Kris as well.

Were you looking at a Ti hub for road riding? Or maybe it’s offroad distance riding. Anyway, don’t let that one incident stop you from upgrading; it will either last you a very, very long time, or KH will take care of you.

The hub is fine when used for freestyle, touring, etc, but it is not strong enough for muni or trials. The cut outs are what crack first, which then cause the welds to fail.

Kris knows the ti hubs had problems and works with owners if and when the hub fails. I had one fail and I received a replacement hub, as did a friend.

I don’t think the hubs are still being produced.