KH24s now come stock with 150s. I run 165s, but I need all the help I can get on uphills. I think that more people run 150s than longer these days.
Well I’ll be… I never noticed that before. I wonder why 150 is more popular now? The longer the crank the more leverage to pedal up steeper stuff. Are they now built for more trail riding? I dont see why they would… my crotch gives out before my legs do on a long ride.
Jay
With shorter cranks you can get going alot faster and with alot more flow to your riding. You are more likely to bail on some downhill sections, but once you get used to it you can learn to control smaller cranks almost as well as larger ones.
If you think 150’s on a 24 are small, I run 137’s on a 26"
. But I’m wierd and have 110’s on my trials.
That’s an interesting adapter. Clever. Looks like an adapter like that could convert unicycle hubs to disk brake hubs.
They have a patent on it. Patent # 6880897. Here’s the patent on Google. The patent shows pictures of how the adapter works. It screws on to the existing hub through the existing hub’s spoke holes. Then you lace the wheel using the spoke holes on the adapter.
I see what you are saying about the flow with smaller cranks. It must be a personal preference. I do a lot of riding in limerock pits and never ever really get to flow. I should have some pics up later. The disk can get hit on stuff, but only on rails or small stuff because the tire is wide enough that it deflects the uni away from the stuff you are riding on. I have hit it on a rail, but only very gently so no warpage occured. I always jump toward the left and the disk is on the right, so I manage to no place it in to much danger. I could make a shield for the brake, but I would only add weight and not protect much.
Jay
That is awesome!
Helloo !
I’m actually build a 24" disk break unicycle…
It’s quite hard to find a KH spare parts in france (I just want the wheel) so I bought a koxx one wheel with 160mm crancks …
It’s very hard to find the place between the crank and the spoke to put the break.
If you get short crank you 'll get much space, but it’s a uni so you want long cranck…
But on my point, it is not the solution, I saw that koxx axle get much more space between the spoke and the ball-bearing, I hop it’s
I had to sand my brake (it’s a cable disk break) to roll with it, I hope it’s gonna work…
I send photos when it’s finish.
Those adapters wont work from what I see… They are way to thick and wont leave the bearing any surace area to sit on. My hub is less than .25 thick and I still had to machine the KH hub to get a little more space. The bolts stick out about 1/8 of an inch, so this also makes it hard to find room. My bearing is only holding by about 5/8 of its width. I flowed some JB weld into the crack and it should hold, but I have only put one ride on it with out the caliper mounted.
Jay
Use an 8" disc, hopefully getting the caliper farther away from the crank and father up where the spokes are closer together.
Rotor size should be as small as possible, but obviously without crank interference. A smaller rotor will provide better modulation. Rotors come standard in as small as 140mm.
You can also find cranks with more offset coming out from the axle point, which will better clear a caliper mounted closer to the axle.