kh frame repaired

Got the broken frame repaired
Took it out for a ride, works well

frame 3.jpg

frame 2.jpg

frame one.jpg

Looks like industrial strength tic welding to me, Hans. I figure if you get another six months out of that frame you´re doing fine since IME, hard core muni (2-3 days a week) eats all aluminum frames in basically 16-24 months.


Hans, all I can say is that your kh has been through a lot.

ugly, but I guess it’s better than buying a new frame. It would suck to hit your knees on the pointy things sticking out of the weld.

Now you just need to rip off those ugly udc stickers! :smiley: But wait…maybe they’ll help hold the frame together!

Ewwww plz kill me or take that frame away

To some people a frame is something which enables them to ride.

Looks beefy. :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m actually suprised that more frames, especially Muni ones, don’t come stock with small braces like that. That seems to be the weak point in every frame, and for things like trials and Muni you never put your foot there, so you can spare room for a brace. Be sure to tell us how it holds up!

The rider’s weight is also a key factor in frame, hub, and crank longevity. I would logically conclude that a rider weighing 140lbs will exert far less stress on a frame, etc, vs a 200lb rider. This also takes into consideration that both riders are subjecting their Munis to comparable terrain and riding styles, and also doing similar drops and so on.:slight_smile:

i was just thinking about how strong kh frames really are the other day

Now go get it dirty again. That frame is far too clean for a respectable muni. :smiley:

Yeah, toss it in a mud puddle, swish it around, then roll it around on some manuer, then maybe it will be “muni-worthy!”:smiley:

Intentionally rolling the muni in some manure is a little more hardcore than I’m willing to go, although I do occasionally end up rolling through the occasional horse apple or worse the occasional abandoned dog poop. Finding a mud puddle in southern California this time of year is also going to be tough. I’m willing to let it go at just not washing the muni and letting it accumulate layers of dusty dirt.

-Team Dirty Muni

lol, be sure to clean rust off, I think rust is bad for unis.

i agree.

I also agree. Except for the bit about the manure. that’s just gross. :roll_eyes:

Yes, I really don’t understand why frames are build like this (with the tube for the saddle just put on top). I have no background in engineering or welding, so what I think might be completely stupid though. But a construction like this seems to be much better.

Nice! I didn’t know Koxx One was making such a freestyle frame. A new signature model.

It actually looks a lot like a DM Ringmaster Advanced in the way the frame is constructed. Similar in the way the tubing fits together and is welded.

DM is no longer in business making unicycles so it is really nice to have Koxx One making (what I assume to be) similar quality freestyle frames.

Anyways, design goals and materials are going to play a big role in what makes for a practical frame design. An aluminum frame aiming for low weight isn’t going to do well with the DM style or new Koxx One Signature style frame. Too many welds. It would be heavier.

There are other ways to improve the strength of the aluminum frames. Tubing that is thicker (greater wall thickness) where the welds are is one way. Better tolerances in how the tubes are cut and how they fit together before welding. Choice of alloy for the frame tubes. A change in heat treatment. And other changes can be done to improve strength, but it will be at the expense of weight and/or cost. The engineering challenge is finding the right balance between low weight and high strength and cost. Don’t want to overbuild or underbuild.

oh man… that frame looks hot :sunglasses: both the kh one and the new signature koxx one frame

OK you all, thanks for all the comments
I’ll be out gettting it as filthy as possible asap, so it can look respectable when riding the trails

I do think the frames tend to break from the amount of riding that is done on it (and the weight of the rider, I am right at 200)
The metal can only take so much flexing then it get metal fatigue and gives out

I had my wilder frame fixed 4 times before I gave up on it

Have a good weekend

I welded that frame back up. A few things I noticed in the proccess…

It welded nothing like 7000 series aluminum, and didn’t grind like anything special. 7000 series aluminum is hell to file, cut, and weld compared to run of the mill 6061, etc. I would bet good money that whomever makes this frame in Taiwan has decided to cut costs with alower grade alloy (note, that means lower welding costs, as well). Still, 7000 series al wouldn’t really improve things, since it fatigues faster than 6061.

The frame did not break at the weld, it broke ABOVE the weld. This means that Koxx freestyle design is useless, since the welds are more than adaquate. The aluminum of the seattube itself is the weak point. If the welds break on any frame, that is grounds to claim a manufacturing defect and ask for a warrantied replacement, IMO. A proper weld in a tubular frame context is almost always stronger than the parent metal.

Welding destroys the heat treatment of the parent metal, which is critical in aluminum. I am curious as to how long this thing will last.

The points ground into the gussets are for 1-f riding, etc. I doubt they will grab your knees. No big deal to file them off if they do, though.

Good luck with the frame Hans. Glad I could help.

Max, people like you are what make the internet suck.