I know the pedal bearings are fine because they are brand new. So it has to be the hub.
-Budd-
Hello, I just got home from the auto parts store with a small tube of Loc-Tite Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant (not copper). I haven’t opened it yet, and I kept the receipt, just incase I have to return it. It says this stuff is designed to lubricate, prevent corrosion, permit easy disassembly, eliminate galling and seizing, withstand up to 870 degrees Celcius (1600 degrees Farenheit). Use on: manifold studs, brake anchor pins, oxygen sensors, EGR fittings, assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion, hinges, spark plug threads when installed on aluminium or cast iron heads. So then I got thinking, well if creaking and clicking is a common part of splined axles, then surely a bike shop would sell something which is actually designed to fix the problem. Is this Anti-Seize Lubricant really what I want to use??? Also JoeRowing posted that any clicks etc. are usually pedal bearings. Come to think of it I don’t really hear much creaking at all; all I really hear is clicking, but it doesn’t feel like its in the pedals, but right in the axle. Do I need something else? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Hi again!
I thought I’d give something a try. I have recorded a WAV file of my crank clicking. Maybe some of you might be able to closer identify my problem. Others may be able to agree that their KH20 sounds the same. The attachment loader of the forum will only let me attach a ZIP file, so I have zipped up the wav. For those of you who can’t open it, you can download a trial version of WinZip for free from www.winzip.com
Later,
Dale
crank_click.zip (88.1 KB)
Re: grease on splines
Lucky for some. I coated everything on the right side of the setup with copper Anti-seize. The clicking went away for a few minutes and then started to come back. I went for a long ride the next day and I think I can understand what the creaking noise is maybe. At first my unicycle would click each time the right crank got near the end of a downstroke. When a bunch of clicks occurs together it sounds more like a grinding creaking sound. Yesterday I was riding and the creaking/clicks went almost totally quiet, and then at night time in the wet it was creaking again. I am hesitant to do much riding in the rain, I do not want a rusty axle since I can’t get the left profile crank off to anti-seize it. I wonder why Unicycle.com doesn’t offer titanium Profile axle upgrades. Maybe they are not compatable with Unicycle hardware. Dale I think Anti-seize is a product designed to fix the problem. Like you said it prevents corrosion and lubricates instead of having metal on metal which has the possibility of Bonding together and seizing. I don’t think the colour of the Anti-seize matters. I got the copper one because that is commonly used. The different colours affect the temperatures that the Anti-seize can withstand and they use different coloured metals to get different properties. I don’t think temperature should be much of an issue because your axle should never reach 870º C. I reckon just follow the advice to grease or anti-seize all the parts touching the axle and then just hope the clicking subsides. If it doesn’t go away at least you know your parts are lubricated and somewhat protected from moisture and corrosion.
The type of anti-seize doesn’t really matter. Copper or silver. It doesn’t really matter on a bike or unicycle. It does, however, make a difference in high temperature environments like on engine parts.
The bike shop mechanics use the stuff that you buy at the auto parts store. You can get some special anti-seize for titanium parts
<http://www.finishlineusa.com/Lubricants.htm#Ti-Prep> It’s just regular copper anti-seize but packaged in a convenient syringe and sold at a higher price.
You only need to use a little bit of anti-seize so a small 4oz jar will last you many years. If you got more than 4oz return the jar and buy a smaller size.
Put anti-seize on the splines and also on the threads of the retaining bolt and pinch bolt. Anti-seize on the bolt threads will allow you to get the bolt tighter and a tighter bolt will lessen or even eliminate the creaking from the splines.
It’s also possible that the clicking is from the pedal bearings. I listened to the wave file and that type of sound can be caused by a crushed cartridge bearing in the pedal. I broke a pedal bearing last week and that was the sound it made as I pedaled.
It can be hard to identify what part is causing a clicking sound on a bike or unicycle. The frame of a bike or unicycle can pick up and amplify and move the sound making it difficult to tell where the sound it coming from. When my pedal bearing broke I could hear the clicking sound best when I put my ear on the seatpost and turned the pedal. Try putting your ear on the seatpost or some part of the frame and then turning the pedal. If you hear a clicking then the sound is coming from the pedal bearing.
Thanks John and Rowan!
I’m going to apply the anti-seize (btw I only got a 1oz. tube) and see what kind of results I get, but after reading what you guys posted, I’m pretty sure it’s the pedal bearings. Is it an expensive fix, or can I do it myself without requiring special tools?
How do pedal bearings get damaged? I have barely rode the uni at all - probably less than eight hours.
Thanks,
Dale
What pedals do you have? Do you know if your pedals use sealed or unsealed pedals?
Replacement sealed pedal bearings are about $9 each. Overhauling sealed bearing pedals is easy.
Overhauling unsealed bearings is a bit more difficult because there are more loose parts (loose ball bearings). You can do it yourself or have a bike shop do it.
Well I’ve got my KH20 in pieces now, and I think my problem was that one of my crank arms was a little bit loose. I’m going to put it back together and tighten them up good, and hope that everything is fine. But I thought since I still have it apart, then I should lube it up with the anti-seize. But where exactly do I put the anti-seize? Can someone please post a diagram or something? Thanks.
Spread the anti-seize on the splines and on the bolt threads that hold the crank on. You just need a thin layer of anti-seize evenly spread out. Then slide the crank on the hub. Then tighten down the bolts really tight.
Thread the bolts by hand to get them started to reduce the risk of getting them cross-threaded. After the bolts are started in the threads you can use the hex keys and other tools to tighten them down.
The pedal threads should get some grease before threading them on the crank. Plain old grease is good enough for the pedal threads. Anti-seize would also work but is overkill for pedal threads.