kh '08?

yes he needs a seatpost that is stronger at the top, maybe strengthen the bottom of the seat tube, make the seat tube a touch longer, and use a better saddle base, i imagine that with bulk orders he might be able to get carbon for a reasonable price…

stronger rims for the 20" and the 24" would be nice as the 20" tends to buckle when you push it a bit, so i reckon slightly smaller drill holes and you will notice the inside wall of the rim is about half as thick as the outer wall, so it both were the same thickness combines with slightly smaller drill holes the strength would go up niceley.

you need more than 25mm adjustability… or at least i do. I keep the seat lower than normal for muni and higher than normal for comfortable road riding. I shortened the seatpost as little as possible, but now it’s still not long enough when I switch to road.

edit: oops, i see peter covered what i’m talking about… yes, longer seat tube please, kris.

+1

Wide 29er tires

I don’t know if it is any of these, but here are some that are available.

Specialized Resolution 29x2.3
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=26406

HALO CHOIR MASTER 29x2.35
http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=tyha-cmast29er
Mtb thread
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=2066596&page=2&highlight=29x2.4

WTB ExiWolf 2.3 (55/50) 29" Steel DNA Tire
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/ebikestop/items/004-TR1644
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=21176&PID=1204522
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=14772&PID=1204522

I talked to Kris about 2008 improvements over email. I suggested some of this

Saddle- for the fusion street, change the foam to make it more Luxury-like. The Luxury saddle is by far and away the nicest saddle for seat-out hopping and is also comfortable to sit on too. You’d only really know if you’ve tried both.

Frame- pretty decent, but Kris was interested by my idea of improving the alloy to 6066 (Ultra 6) which is the modern standard for the top biketrials frames. It is a tiny bit flexier than 7005 but less brittle, making it great for a trials frame as it absorbs a lot of shock and flex the tiniest bit than rather be stiffer and more brittle. … Also for the crown, the current seattube join is very weak as there is only one weld, changing the join similar to the Black Domina or new Qu-Ax Street frame would be beneficial.

Hub- Just have the flanges stiffer, because designing them to be flexy and bendy isn’t great as it pulls the spokes as it bends and also, isn’t very confidence inspiring either. As for appearance- please make the hub black instead of blue.

Seatpost- To make it a simple improvement, just introduce Kris Holm branded steel posts, and possibly make them reinforced steel posts too. Or just borrow Qu-Ax’s new idea. Koxx-One’s flutted tubing idea works nicely for their pit fighter as flutted tubes does seeem to be good for BMX components too.

Rim- please oh please, lose those holes. Or make them a bit smaller as they are too big just like standard drilled Pulo rims (Try-All for example). I know of plenty trials riders (mostly bike) that have snapped the joints between the spoke holes and the big holes on the rimtape side… The KH frame is light enough so having tiny tiny bit heavier rim is not going to be terrible.

I found out the name of the tire, its the WTB Stout. Kris already has one, but its a prototype tire.

Maybe someone with a welder making posts

Is a good answer to the post breaking problem. Kris seems to be doing a good balance with the post as it is now. To make it stronger it would be heavier. Since most riders haven’t been breaking them, and everyone likes light, why should he make them all heavier ? This should be am easy business to start as an after market thing. How hard could it be to make a seat post?
It would seem simple for Kris to whip up an optional thicker seat post, but there is no easy end to that road. With a stronger post, more people will break frames, seats etc. He’s probably much happier with people saying the seat posts break, then that the frame is heavy, or breaks etc. The post is a nice cheap to replace link in the chain.

+1

Actually LOTS of people are breaking the post on the 20, and from this site, I would say NOT very few are breaking the bike type post.

i think thats simply beacause people on KH20’s do lots of jumping which fatigues the seatpost, while people with KH24/29 mostly ride which fatigues the aluminium alot less. Even very techincal muni has very little jumps compared to a trials line.

I have not read anything up to this point. Except Kelly’s post.

Carbon Fiber the seat and it takes care of the seat, then use a steel seat post with triagnle stenghters (i’ve seen them before, they attach to the post, or to the flat part with the bolts screw through). It would be a bit heavier, fine with street riders, and cost about 100some dollars more.

-Shaun Johanneson

there are several ways for improvement:
-stronger seat post
-better welded frame
-more street-friendly cranks
-the hub can definitely lose some weight, it really doesnt need to be THAT strong
-the rim can get stronger, yes, no holes or smaller holes would be nice
-spoke nipples that dont break as easy (Brass?)
-I guess 14 gauge spokes would be more convenient since no bike store has 13 gauge
-idk if better bearings would help w/ flips, but i think they would
-frame structure can be better for stand up ww, but thats not exactly neccessary.
-longer neck on frame (just like 1 inch)
yea all these would definitely be gr8.

Have you ever tried the foam from the 06 experimental foam? It was a dual density foam that was maybe twice as thick as the street seat. It was thin enough that it was still great for holding in your hand but big enough that it was super comfy and could probably be cut down even more for a better street seat.

I think he should have stuck with that foam for the street seat. This whole idea of a little tiny patch of gel just doesn’t work for me. People’s pressure points are almost never going to be in the same exact area, so why put such a small patch there. I think he should have stuck with the dual layer foam instead of going with something that was already out there.

Hey Peleshramm !

“-idk if better bearings would help w/ flips, but i think they would” ^

This comment makes me think your bearing holders are to tight. UDC Roger posted last week that many people mistakenly think that KH holders are meant to fit tight. They aren’t !

When I flipped my KH over and gave it a spin, I counted 4 smooth revs. But when I loosened the holders up, the same shove gave me 12 revs !

So adjust the bearing tension on a KH the same as other unis.:slight_smile: All the 22x42 bearings on all the makes of ISIS axles come from the same source, because they are a custom size only found on uni’s. I think Qu-ax ordered up a huge batch, and sells them to the other makes, cause the KH bearings say Qu-ax on them, I bet they all do.

Thx but i alrdy keep them loose. I didnt say they wer especialy bad, but if wer talkin a high class uni, ther might as well b RLY good bearings instead o3 decent ones. I apreciate ur atempt 2 help tho.

OK, just checking

Because when they went to 22 mm as the standard axle for ISIS, the makers went to a unique size of bearing, rather then redo all their frames. The next size of standard bearing is 22x44. You can get better bearings in standard sizes. I don’t think it’s worth my money, but perhaps an 80$ ceramic bearing might spin with less friction. I’m not sure about that. Perhaps those are made for a super high rpm, or super precision tool or something. Anyway, I think all 22x44 bearings on earth come from the same batch, there is nothing better.

If you really want to mess around with it, I bet taking the grease out of the bearing and oiling it lightly would free it up some. I don’t think it’s worth the trouble. Putting on super light pedals would have a better practical effect.

yea i tried greasing up. i also now use plastic pedals. but i just now switched to a koxx reinforced rim so that is REALLY heavy so its hard 2 do stuff.

Yeah, its realy a brick eh?
Dude, I have the Try all street rim to and it’s stronger but yeah a bit heavier.
But it’s not that you have concrete in your rim…

Peter M

How can you know that it is stronger? I saw two Koxx not holed rims break down easy (Mat 1,7m drop at koxx days and a german guy with a 2m drop). Both times the rim break completly. My KH is bend a lot also, but I think both rims Koxx or KH are the same good or worse. The Alex DX rim is the best I tried but it sucks that the rim is so small.

Lutz, you’ve pretty much got it bang on the head. The Tryall and Koxx drilled rims are pretty much the same, just the same stuff spewed out of the Jetset factory.

DX32s are super strong yes, I have one, but I sure do hate it… so damn narrow! tyre folds like crazy when compared to using a wider rim… it is so noticable, and balance is a bit harder. Doesn’t help that I use a damn CC with it.