It’s a 24" Track Monster from Koxx-1. It is advertised as coming with 140mm cranks, but they gave me 160s. I don’t quite know what to think, since I usually ride a 20" with 110/125’s set to 110. I have ridden some friends’ 24"'s and I always think, “Fast.” It is very tiring to ride on flat ground and not a bit faster than my 20". In fact, I feel it is slower, or more tiring to go the same speed. Will I be glad to have these cranks out on the trails, do you think? That’s what the uni is for - I was only planning on using it for those situations out in the country or on trails - and for that reason I am really not feeling disappointed in spite of this uni’s foreign ponderousness. I have a 20" for the street.
My other complaint would be the seat. It’s stylish as hell, but not particularly comfortable. The nimbus gel saddle or even the new torker seats are more comfortable imho.
But this bad boy had some R&D go into it. It’s just these little things… custom screws, a rim with holes in it so you can see the colored tube inside…Beautiful red pedals luminescent in the sun - little things. Since I paid $167 for it new, I really could receive just about anything - so for the price, I am certainly pleased.
i wouldn’t do trial with a 24’ but thats just me maybe for muni though 160 might not be bad but im not sure you should ask some other muni riders here
I rode 160s on my 24" for a while and really liked the extra leverage for downhill and powering over roots and rocks. However they were noticeably slower to spin on flat sections and I ended up going back to 150s after a few weeks. Ride some trails on the 160s and see what you think of them.
if you want speed put some 137s on it and a street tire, it totally changes how a 24inch feels.
If you want to ride trails and such depends on what your doing really, if its just everyday trails with the occasional downhill you can still ride with 137’s and 150’s are good for that to. If you wanting to do some crazy shiz and dont have a brake 160’s are good. Im running 165 for muni but i dont have a brake and i like to do the steep sections so i like the extra leverage i get.
just have fun and ride that bad boy!
Can you post some pics? I have a friend who may want to get one. Thanks.
I raised the seat about two inches - so now it feels like a coker - I kind of have to JUMP to get on. But it’s fast. It’s really fast. I’m now perfectly pleased with the length of the cranks, and glad to hear your remarks about them being good for trails. (I wanted the BEST setup for whatever conditions I may get myself into - I want to be set up to ride hard.)
I have many more reps to do tonight (over 600 still :), but I will find time to figure out how to post pics, if for no other reason than it deserves to be photographed, like a model.
I recommend it to your friend. Before they run out, Koxxone is getting rid of their unis pretty cheap right now, and the first word that came to mind when I unwrapped it was “quality.”
More on the way in a few mins if they upload. Color on first pic sucks, glare on the second pic sucks, but here ya go.
Uhh. My pictures don’t have a URL. How do I upload them?
You can upload pictures from your computer. Scroll down when replying and choose Manage Attachments. You will get an option to browse your computer and select files to upload.
upload test: 3 or 4 more coming.
See beneath the double-bolt, there? There is a silver tube between the clamp and the seatpost, so the seatpost won’t get scratched. They also gave me a spare. The little things…
Is there a reason you have your seat clamp on backwards?
Here you can see the red tiretube through the perforated rim.
Peel off the stickers, put on other pedals, seat, and clamp and tiretube, and your Muni becomes Black/insertcolorhere!
Sounded simpler in my head.
Backward seat clamp? Huh. I guess it is backwards. Looks nice though, IMO - the people behind me can see the k1 logo. Sorry that these pics kind of suck, and my crank/hub pics didn’t upload to the computer for some reason, but I’m done dealing with this. Hopefully, those pictures were of some help.
The clamp was attached this way as the uni arrived. I didn’t think to change it.
Maybe the seat is backwards?
BTW, my son rides a KH 24 with a 3" Duro, using the K1 160mm cranks and loves them, more power and control over 150’s, though there is a tad more pedal strike, but totally fine and well worth the extra power.
137’s may be nice for spinning easy terrain, but for technical stuff you need power and leverage, so 150’s minimum, 160’s better yet.
I run 170’s on my 26" muni, but that’s for a Larry 3.8", so a big and tall tire.
I run 165’s on my 29er with a 2.4, so tall and big again.
Trials with a muni? Sure, why not, but don’t expect to be doing the same sort of tricks.
BEN!! You nailed it! And here I was accusing K1 of sending me a frame with a clamp on backward - when I installed the seat myself!!!
I’ll fix that before I ride again, though the uni appears otherwise symmetrical. Why should the screws be on the back - any reason other than convention??
You think I can install a 3.5" on this frame? ( I think it has the clearance.)
But what about the rim - would I need a new one?
I think backside screws on the clamp are inherited from bikes… generally the important thing is that screws are on the same side as the cut in the tube.
What is even more important when we consider back/front is that cranks/pedals are on the good side left-right wise.
You should check if the cranks are on the corrects sides after turning the seat. Otherwise the pedals will come loose.
Edit: vookash was faster than me