First question is: do you like Q-factor? Q-factor describes how much the cranks are bent outwards, or consequently how far apart your pedals will be.
KH Spirits, Mad4one tecno, Qu-ax ZeroQ (Isis option) and (at least as far as I have heard, they are fairly new) Nimbus VCX would be your competitors for really strong cranks (cranks that will survive almost anything anyone throws at them) that would do well on a bigger wheel.
Nimbus Ventures would be pretty ok too, as well as the various cheaper aluminum Qu-ax cranks. Not as bullet proof, but cheap and easily available in multiple lengths.
I thought you were an accomplished cokerer. What was your old setup? If your old cranks had outwards flare I would look for new cranks with similar “Q-factor” Once you Quack like a duck, might as well keep on quacking.
Basically all the ISIS cranks out there now are stronger than all but the best square taper cranks that were available 10 years ago.
I have KH Spirit 127/150 cranks on my G36 and my KH Muni. Never used the 127 holes on the 36 (makes high gear pretty challenging), but am currently loving the 127 holes on the Muni.
For an ungeared 36" I would definitely go for 2-hole cranks; there’s a lot more flexibility in ungeared 36" riding. I’ve used from 102s to 170s over the years. For most riding I would do today (road), I’d use 125 or something a little shorter, depending on amount of hills. For Muni I’d probably stick with 150, or shorter if the hills are mild.
I don’t change crank holes often but when I do it’s so much simpler than swapping cranks. Obviously good for a road > trail > road rides, and I have the option of a “bail out” setting on long road rides without carrying a second set of cranks, extractor, etc.
I’ve made my own dual hole cranks from single hole cranks with mixed results.