isis drive crank recommendations for 36"?


I love the green 36" rim and I’m doing a wheel build. I do road, occasional single track, might occasional do a small drop.

The new hub is isis drive (a star shaped spline) where my (old) existing hub and crank arms are square taper (a square spline) and will not be compatible.

It might not matter much, but what cranks would be BEST (durable, long lasting) with Hub/axle: Nimbus 36H A/S Disc ISIS Hub ,125mm center bearing to center bearing

Spokes: 14G. stainless black (Disc side 369mm 3x, Non-disc side 367mm 3x) with silver nipples

Rim: Nimbus Stealth2, 36" (bright green) 36H, 42mm wide, aluminum doublewall, reinforced eyelets, ERD - 767mm

First question is: do you like Q-factor? Q-factor describes how much the cranks are bent outwards, or consequently how far apart your pedals will be.

KH Spirits, Mad4one tecno, Qu-ax ZeroQ (Isis option) and (at least as far as I have heard, they are fairly new) Nimbus VCX would be your competitors for really strong cranks (cranks that will survive almost anything anyone throws at them) that would do well on a bigger wheel.

Nimbus Ventures would be pretty ok too, as well as the various cheaper aluminum Qu-ax cranks. Not as bullet proof, but cheap and easily available in multiple lengths.

Hi Billy

I thought you were an accomplished cokerer. What was your old setup? If your old cranks had outwards flare I would look for new cranks with similar “Q-factor” Once you Quack like a duck, might as well keep on quacking.

Basically all the ISIS cranks out there now are stronger than all but the best square taper cranks that were available 10 years ago.

I’ve been riding a very old set up, not big on tech advances.

Thanks for the rec of Nimbus VCX !!

Another question: Who uses 2-hole cranks, like the KH 110/127? Mainly MUni folk who need to change with the terrain? Is is just a very cheap/inconvenient form of GUni?

I have KH Spirit 127/150 cranks on my G36 and my KH Muni. Never used the 127 holes on the 36 (makes high gear pretty challenging), but am currently loving the 127 holes on the Muni.

For an ungeared 36" I would definitely go for 2-hole cranks; there’s a lot more flexibility in ungeared 36" riding. I’ve used from 102s to 170s over the years. For most riding I would do today (road), I’d use 125 or something a little shorter, depending on amount of hills. For Muni I’d probably stick with 150, or shorter if the hills are mild.

Raises hand

I like my dual hole cranks.

I don’t change crank holes often but when I do it’s so much simpler than swapping cranks. Obviously good for a road > trail > road rides, and I have the option of a “bail out” setting on long road rides without carrying a second set of cranks, extractor, etc.

I’ve made my own dual hole cranks from single hole cranks with mixed results.

Thanks Eric, John, and Finnspin!

New wheel, hub, cranks ordered! Ready in a few days!

Happy New Year!

My new ride is so solid!! I had no idea over time, how the OLD stuff just wasn’t doing it for me.

Thanks again!

Nice, what did you go for?

Spokes: 14G. stainless black (Disc side 369mm 3x, Non-disc side 367mm 3x) with silver nipples

Rim: Nimbus Stealth2, 36"; 36H, 42mm wide, aluminum doublewall, reinforced eyelets, ERD - 767mm

2-hole cranks.

Unfortunately, the green rims have a several month wait, so I got it in black. It’s just really solid. My old rim/spokes were in bad shape.

I find the new splined cranks a bit more challenging. Maybe they’re a few millimeters shorter. Slightly more difficult to mount, and I seem to be working new muscles, but I don’t really know why.