is there a right position for the cranks?

When I got my uni (qu-ax 20" splined), the cranks came mounted in the wheel but with the letters, R and L indicatting the right way to mount the wheel in the frame.

I`m in need to rotate my tire now and I wanted to know if I can rotate the whole wheel or if I need to take the tire off. If I rotate the whole wheel, will the cranks have any problem for being in changed positions?

Make sure that the left crank stays on the left side. Otherwise the pedals will unscrew and fall off.

thats what I thought. In another thread someone said it is good to rotate the cranks a bit. This is done rotating them on the axle right? (just to make sure, dont want to wreck my cranks)

It’s fine. If not, I’ll tell you about my exciting coker crash in a few days time. As long as they’re on the correct side (maybe I should say the right side?) it doesn’t matter which way they go on.

For added fun, why not try riding it having moved one crank around 90 degrees?

Yes, this is how you ride. You sit on the seat and rotate the cranks using the pedal. As a result, the wheel turns.

Seriously, you don’t need to “rotate your cranks”. This is nonsense. Keep in mind there are a lot of idiots in these fora… don’t go filling your tire with helium just 'cause you read about it in a thread :slight_smile:

The only “maintenance” you need to do to your cranks is to make sure the bolts stay tightened. A loose crank can develop a “wobble” which can not be fixed, except for replacing the crank. If you’ve got splined cranks, it is also a good idea to remove, clean and re-grease (or anti-sieze) the splines every year or so.

If you really want to rotate something, you could rotate your tire (with respect to your cranks / wheel) so that you don’t develop a “bald spot” on it from hopping / spinning / etc. Just let the air out of your tire, hold the wheel and move the tire ~45 degrees or so, reinflate and ride!

i think by rotate he meant to take the cranks off and turn the cranks not the wheel 45 or 90 degrees so that the splines get evenly used…i think its a good idea myself.

By rotating the cranks, you get a nice chance to relube and retighten them. By doing so, you have already rotated the tire without any work, and without any damage to the tire or tube. It’s a great way to even out tire wear.

I rotate my cranks some times. But thats just to wear my tire evenly. My tire wears only right on the spot where I hop. Instead of taking of the tire and rotate it, I just rotate the cranks instead.

The 2005 Kris Holm Uni’s come with instructions for care of the hub which say you should remove, regrease, rotate and then retighten both cranks every 30 or 40 rides.

Now if 30 or 40 rides is one year then great but if you ride more often or want to prevent damage then I think it is wise to strip the hub and regrease and rotate every couple of months, I ride almost daily so 2 months and I have done my 30 or 40 rides.

It does seem like a lot of effort but I think I would rather spend time on maintainence rather than money on new parts.

I also think that rotating the tire without taking it off is a little dubious as it can pull at the inner tube and cause damage to it. Better to rotate the cranks and save the cost of a new inner tube or to remove the tyre completely to rotate it.

Plumsie

Think about this. Are there splines that go unused when the cranks are mounted in any orientation? No! By the symmetry of its design, the crank interfaces with every spline on the axle, distributing its torque evenly amongst them.

As to the comments about even “wear” on the hub… I don’t see any merit to this. Yes, the hub is subject to shearing forces, especially when the rider is landing a drop, but if the hub does not deform it will not “wear”… the axle absorbs the energy of the shearing forces but retains its original shape (in most cases). If you’re bending your axle, rotating the cranks isn’t going to help much… a deformed axle isn’t as strong as the original straight axle.

The only advantage to be gained by rotating the cranks is that of even tire wear… but it’s much easier to deflate the inner tube and rotate the tire.

If you deflate the inner tube first you won’t pull on it much if at all. If, when reinflating the tube, you fill it up partway, then deflate it, then reinflate it to full, the tube will reseat itself in the process.

Would you rather risk replacing a $2.50 inner tube or a $20 bolt (if you accidentally cross-thread the thing) or a $50 crank (if you don’t tighten the bolt properly and the crank develops a wobble)? Why mess around with hardware when there’s a simple solution to the problem?

The torque is clearly not distributed equally among the splines; the splines nearest the crank itself will take more of the force than the splines on the other side. Certainly I can see wear on my old Profile splines, and it’s not equal all the way around. Rotating the cranks will even out this effect.

Forces on the hub are also not equal; spokes which meet the hub near the crank are stressed more than spokes away from the crank. When I break spokes, it’s always near the crank, on the crank side.

I wouldn’t advise taking off your cranks just to rotate them, but if you ride a lot of MUni or trials, you should take them off occasionally to clean them and apply new grease or anti-seize, and it is prudent to rotate them when you do that.