Is 20" to 29" too big of a diffrence?

Hi, I’m getting a 29" muni (http://www.unicycle.uk.com/unicycles/muni/29-nimbus-muni-unicycle-blue.html) in around june time. However, I still got a few months to decide.

I’ve noticed the slight change on a unicycle makes it feel a lot diffrence. An example is when I changed from 114mm to 100mm cranks, felt a whole lot different. Also, I changed from a Qu-ax tyre to Max Daddy BMX tyre, and I noticed a huge change in that.

Judging by that, will 20" to 29" be to much of a change? I have only ridden a 20".

I want a unicycle I can go on and off road, and can swap tyres easier (36" tyres are too expensive, 29" I can just but a bike tyre on it)

Thanks

Shouldn’t be. Although going through something like a 24" or 26" first would help, you sound like you’re experienced enough.
One thing that will help out is using longer cranks (I think the one you’re looking at comes with 150’s anyway) atleast when you start out on it.
Once you manage to adjust your balancing point on the 29", the only other thing to worry about will be free-mounting. If you are particularly short, you may want to try the jump mount but otherwise the static mount should be fine.

I have been riding for over half a year now (late september 2014), I ride a 20" Qu-Ax Profi over a mile each day, I can bunnyhop, idle, freemount, go down kerbs (around half a metre max) and go backwards about 5 metres.

I have once ridden 5 miles on a 20", however I do do road and MTB a lot.

A 29 should be pretty easy to grasp with an hour of it feeling like its going too far. A 29 is more similar to a 20 than a 36 is. At the start it will take a while to get used to each unicycle whenever you swap them but that time will reduce in time.

For longer distance on road and less technical off road, a 29er is a great choice.

Why do you say this?

Weight.

A 36er wheelset (the important bit for weight savings) even with all the lightest components will still probably weight more than an entire 29er.

This leads to riding feeling completely different with decisions about changing speed needing to be made quite far in advance. It also means that if you get things wrong, you will find yourself in mid air as the wheels momentum will throw you off if you make a mistake. Riding a 36er is about making big changes with gradual inputs.

On a 29er, the wheel is very responsive and acceleration and braking can be done on a whim even with shorter cranks. Cornering is much tighter and most important for me, it is easy to idle at traffic lights.

Good to know! 36’s seem like beasts, so it’s no surprise that the weight difference is large. So would you say riding a 36’ is a lot more technical (don’t want to use the word “harder”) in terms of shifting/distributing weight, slowing/stopping, etc.?

It’s much harder to change speed quickly and get going but very easy to ride when you have it moving on road.

Up to speed it feels unstoppable and the momentum will roll over most things. Below around 5-7mph, it feels like it is trying to throw you off.

If I had known what I do now when I started I would have skipped 24" and 26" all together. I have so much more fun on my 29+
It has more speed and rollover and can still negotiate the rock gardens.

If you have already acquired those skills in such a short period of time, you are going to have no problems on the 29".

You guys are amazing.

I went from 24" to a 29er with a Big Apple tire within 5 month of learning to ride. I had no trouble riding and mounting the 29er but the following weeks/months have been challenging. I’m not so confident on it like I am on my 24". I’ve had to build up strength in my hips and legs to be able to control camber. I only tried it off road once and found it too difficult although I’d only had it a few weeks when I did that. I haven’t given up on it though and it seems to get easier the more I ride it. As of today I’ve logged 300+ miles on the 29er and 200 on 24" unis.

I’m now using 127mm cranks but started with 150mm.

the difference is huge, but i think you should buy it. It’s different implements for different purposes. 29" is good for touring, but a bit bit for muni. If you want to ride downhill, i think, you should take 24" or 26".

cranks

I, too, am considering either a 26" or 29". For now my 24" will have to do, but the stock 150 cranks seem too long for regular (around town) riding. Would jumping down to 110s be to much of a jump? Should I go 125s?

Vertigo, you’re doing extremely well! I clicked on a link somewhere on one of your Strava activities, and partway down the page it included a side-by-side comparison of your stats against mine. You made me look really bad. :frowning:

I remember last spring going though some of the same adjustments you describe, coming up on my year anniversary then and not doing nearly as well as you are now. It was a gradual process but it kept getting better. To come as far as you have in well under a year is really impressive.

I thought so too on my 24". I put on 127 mm (5", 125 mm, whatever, …) cranks I’d taken off my 20" learner, because I had them around basically, and it was a transformation. Still plenty of leverage but much less side-to-side wobble to fight. Those cranks are on my 700c road uni and the 24" has 114s now. On the road too they’re fine too and I can climb anything that I can climb on any unicycle, but it’s maybe less leverage than I’d like when venturing off pavement. It’s pretty easy to get stuck in a dead zone if I hit a bump while moving slowly. That’s the only downside I’ve found.

Aw jeez, thanks for the vote of confidence. There are so many amazing riders on Strava. It’s easy to feel a bit inadequate at times. At least they’ve gotten me out of my comfort zone. Adding hills has really helped me gain strength over the past month or so.

Looks like you’re doing well with the 36er. I’m in awe of anyone that rides one of those.

It will be a big difference, but it won’t be impossible. You learned to ride one in the first place. This won’t be as bad as that once you’re up on it, just some balance recalibration. However jump mounting on the thing may take a lot of practice. The axle is only 4.5" higher up but it feels like a lot more than that.

I went from a 20" to a 36" as my second wheel and had only been riding the 20 for 2 months or so. A 29" is much closer to a 20" in feel. A 36er is definitely a different experience, but it’s the same principle and if you can ride a 20" it’s just a matter of a little more practice to get the 36er.

No.

A 29" is only 45% bigger and faster than a 20".

The seat is only 4.5" further off the ground.

A 29 is a tad harder to mount and a lot easier to ride.

I took a class where they had 20" unis and got to the point where I could more or less ride along the wall.

I don’t have much interest, long term, in riding styles that 20s are suited for so I bought a 29" and have continued my learning on that. It took a couple of practice sessions to again get to the point where I could more or less ride along the wall. I’m still practicing on my 29" (only) and making progress but still stay close to the wall. I’ll get it eventually.

My experience fwiw. My uni does have somewhat longer cranks, 150mm.