I own a huni-rex 26" guni since February (I’m still learning how to turn and to freemount :o). I added V-brakes, homemade handlebar and 3.8 road tire (using a 4.00-4.5 tube)… I cannot start unicycling with ease: it needs a lot of torque start rolling and than it goes softer and smoother. Already upgraded shoes to 5.10, but it’s still hard. I need advices: I’m thinking about removing weight but how? Removing handlebar?
With the gearing ratio 1:1.5 you should be able to start with rolling mount easily. The weight of unicycle does not matter significantly IMHO.
Practice roll mounts and if it is still difficult consider shorter cranks, as these provide more smooth ride.
The weight of the handle, frame, seat ect. don’t matter all that much, but the wight of the wheel and other rotating components does. The effects of weight on the wheel is compounded when geared up.
You could try a smaller lighter tire (probably not what you want to hear after putting in the time and expense of setting it up with a fat tire). A light wheel will require much less torque to get moving and be more responsive to corrections, but will also be less stable, and more sensitive to surface irregularities. It’s not always easy to find a happy medium.
I have found a handlebar to be a near necessity for comfortable geared riding, so it would not be high on my list of things to remove.
Adding longer cranks will give you more torque. What length are your cranks ?
Just remembered how low the crank axles are. This will limit the use of long cranks due to possible pedal strike
Especially when turning
Based on the OP’s description, sounds like he’s trying to make it ride like a unicycle that’s not geared up. Best way to do that is get one without gearing, because the mechanism of the gearing, plus the ratio, will make any unicycle feel sluggish. That’s just normal for a Huni-Rex or any other geared unicycle. You can take off some weight, but it will still ride the same.
[URL=“https://www.veetireco.com/listings/fat-speedster/”]I use a 3.8 high rolling tire and 125 cranks to solve any pedal strike issue and it’s not a problem anymore. I’m still learning, I’m a newby: I can’t complete more than a “8” shape…
I’m trying to figure out how to stop sweating and become fatigued after 5 min. uni!
Is it due to me and my lack of stamina? Is it caused by the uni weight? Maybe the tube bigger than the tire? Is 30 Psi enought for the tire? Do I have to better control the uni to make it more easy even at slowspeed?
I’m satisfied with the uni, it could go fast enought to commute, but it’s impossibile not to sweat after 3-4 minutes! And what about easy hills? Will there be a way to use it going uphill?
I need advice about how to use less streght while riding it. Less weight? More muscoles? More stamina? No hills? More control?
It’s very impressive that you are riding a guni when you haven’t yet learned to freemount and have trouble turning! I am roughly at IUF level 4 or 5 now, and geared unicycles still scare the crap out of me!
My recommendation would be that you get a decent 20" unicycle and learn some skills. You will learn a lot faster that way, and probably be safer, too.
Do you have another unicycle? The Huni-rex might be a nearly ideal commuting unicycle depending on your commute, but it’s not going to be very good at slow speed maneuvers.
With the big tire and geared up you will have an effective diameter of about 43" That’s a fair bit of wheel to push with 125mm cranks. Fine once you have your speed up but it would tax even an experienced rider. Unfortunately the risk of pedal strikes limits your crank options.
You are going to sweat. It’s just a fact of life.
:o ok. I’ll try the hard way. Bought a huni rex to save money. Next time my wife will approve a uni tool I’ll look for a rear drive electric hub: a hill won’t be a hell anymore
Unirex with a 3.8 road tire, v brakes and a handlebar, I want to see a photo of that !
You’d better buy an ungeared unicycle and keep this one only for long distance rides when you’ll have more mileage, or better: sell it and keep money for a two speed geared hub or a 36er (or both).
I’m pretty amazed that you started out unicycling on a geared wheel. That you can ride it at all at this point is impressive to me!
If you haven’t already tried, I would recommend a rolling mount. Overcoming the initial resistance with a static mount is hard. Figure out the spacing so when you take a couple of steps (pushing the uni in front of you) the pedals are in the position where you would normally mount, then get on it. The momentum will help with the initial take-off.
The big tire is making life more difficult. If you’re riding on paved road, have the air pressure at about the max that the tire will handle. This will make the tire less “grabby” on the road surface and generally easier to ride.
Good luck! (And, as has been mentioned, post some pics!) 
edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, riding a geared wheel takes a lot of energy, so expect to sweat! There will be no “easy cruising” with this uni. (Unless you’re going downhill, but even that will be tough to control.) As for going uphill, I have a geared hub (Schlumpf), and I can hardly go uphill in high gear at all! It’s hard!
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If you replace the small upper cogs with bigger cogs it would make starting off a lot easier. Replacing the lower cogs with smaller cogs would have the same effect.
Your local bike shop might be able to help.
The present gear ratio would probably be similar to riding a bike stuck in tenth gear.
Thank your for your advice, but I prefer to sweat going faster. I’m going to improve my strenght or sell it. Next days I’ll look for an ebike flip flop hub to mod or invent a way to climb hills
[. Next days I’ll look for an ebike flip flop hub to mod or invent a way to climb hills
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Sounds interesting
Sounds interesting 
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Feel free to suggest me any idea!
I’d definitely suggest narrower tires. Lighter and more agility if that is what you’re seeking… Slimmer saddle with more wiggle room in the crotch, and much less crotch hugging foam, from my experience.
Here’s my experience anyway. I recently started practicing on the g36 with the QX11 saddle on first and second gear. Gotten used to it pretty quick and saddle was comfortable on second gear. But I noticed my muni-ability went to crap on first gear, and I initially thought that was natural being it was a geared uni. Not until I switched it to my ‘oh-so familiar’ Naomi and Knoxx one then I realized that the muni-ability instantly came back. For me, i realized it was two factors. I bottomed out on the already cut post frame of my KH, so I couldnt further get the saddle lower, being 1’ thicker and wider, I couldnt get myself to sit lower (1 inch significantly lower!) What a differnce in changing a simple saddle can make. On the Naomi, a huge difference, and a huge difference in wiggle room in the crotch and bend of the knees to make fast 90° turns, swerve and slalom, slow to a stall , sit up to crank uphills, good bend of the knee , and freed my crotch to plenty of wiggle room.
Interestingly though, slim saddle was great for first gear, but for the second gear, the Qx beats it in comfort and intitial controlliblity. But the Naomi/ K1 is quickly catching up in 2nd gear controlliblity just the fact of having increasingly more saddle time on it.
The Naomi is great for me, especially for my shorter inseam, but the saddle doesnt work for everyone😉
Really thank you for your advice. I worked out to try lower and higher seatpost and find my sweetspot. I could’n try other saddle right now.
However I’m starting a new 3d on a fusion between an electric uni and a geared Huni-rex. I own both. I don’t have knowledge, but lot of will. Next days I’ll post a link if it starts growing ideas
It seems that I should look also for a modded firmware for the motor.