I'm too short....

I think they do, although I whish my crank tree would produce more Spirit cranks as they are frikin expensive to buy :stuck_out_tongue:

I lack some of the shorter sizes being a MUni man but irritatingly due to having a crank disc now I still need to buy new cranks if I want to change to anything other than 165/137 :roll_eyes:

170 Echo Trials cranks
165/137 Spirits
150 Venture 2
145 Qu-ax
137 Spirits

That’s what I thought :wink: Though I’m curious about Ben’s comments about that being more versatile than a 36er - my current impression based on a very short ride on a 36er is that the geared 29er is a lot harder to ride than a 36er - apart from mounting that is, which is the only thing I found hard about riding the 36 despite it having diddy 110 cranks (I currently have 140s on my guni 29er). I guess maybe when I get a bit better on it I’ll really see the advantage, as in theory it should be quicker than a 36er and also give me a lower gear for climbing - in reality at the moment I’m less than 36/29 times as fast on it as I am on my fixed 29er, and from my limited time on a 36er I found it no harder to ride than my fixed 29er so my speed wouldn’t be limited by lack of courage due to not feeling in total control in the way it is on the guni. I’m probably trying to run before I can walk, as I’ve only been riding unis just over a year and don’t learn quite as quick as Feisty (I suspect I probably only spend a fraction of the amount of time riding he does) - though I am now making a concerted effort to ride the guni at least twice a week in an attempt to get more comfortable with it, on the assumption that like all uni stuff it will just take time.

On other off-topic stuff, I don’t feel I have nearly enough crank options to try out - only 150/125 in ISIS and 152.5/140 square taper. It doesn’t really help having two different BB standards on my unis, but then that’s linked to the point up there about having enough money for a guni, and I have at least now sourced 140 ST cranks - it is a little frustrating that I’d like to try 125s on the guni and the ones I own won’t fit!

…back kind of on topic, I’m getting more and more convinced that I need to get a 36er at some point, though I definitely need to clear out the garage and sort out storage for the 13 bikes in there first (not all mine and they might not get ridden much now, but they do all get out occasionally, so I’m loathe to get rid of any).

In some ways a guni is hard to ride, the shifting is difficult, the weight and hub play are obvious, but for me the hardest part is going fast over rough terrain on a relatively small wheel; it feels out of balance :o

I’m looking at building a 29guni to use for longer rides where there are stretches of easy riding double track and road that would be slow and painful on a fixed 29. I suppose I could just take a 36 for these same rides, but I’d be walking more hills and though I love riding a 36er off road, it does tend to be more work to manage a big wheel vs a small wheel.

There is probably no happy medium unless I get a lower gear hub for the 36er or a small gearing step option on a 29er…can’t always get what you want (there’s a song in there somewhere).

You can get longer square taper cranks that are not guni specific, but you need to try them first to see if you have clearance. Does Schlumpf make a 160-165 crank?

Nimbus makes the Ventures in longer lengths for square taper.

Ah, my take on the whole guni business is that unicycles, are well, unicycles–not bikes. Yes, I like brakes on a uni, but brakes are a lot simpler and a lot cheaper, and in my mind come with a lot less disadvantages than a geared hub.

If you want to ride all kinds of terrain and not have to buy 5 different HPVs, a bike like a cross bike is pretty good for that, and a lot more efficient than a uni–though I, personally, find bikes boring. I love unis because of the challenge and the “zen” you get from the constant focus. Muni is so fun because it feels so good when you’re in the flow. I don’t get that from a bike–even a mountain bike.

Though geared uni hubs are interesting, from what I understand they won’t solve the issue of needing multiple unis. For example, say you get a 26 guni, well then you still have the issue of the wheel size not always being appropriate for the terrain. You still won’t be able to roll over things like you can on a 29, if that’s how you want to ride. Then, say you get a 36 instead–sometimes the wheel’s going to be too big for what you want.

The point is that unis require you to sacrifice more when you make an equipment choice than bikes do–that’s just the way it is.

I’m not against gunis. I’m glad there’s a choice out there–each to their own.

My personal take on it (at least now) is that they are an expensive, risky solution to address a “problem” that’s just inherent to the unicycle.

Here’s our attempt at getting 5’4" Steve on our loaner Titan 36 without cutting the frame:

On his muni his seat to center of crank bolt distance is 25.5in with 150s. We got that to work on the 36 by using 125s. 125s aren’t the ideal length to learn on, but we didn’t want to cut the loaner frame. Looking at the frame, we could cut it to make 150s a viable option for him.

Kahunacohen, you’re welcome to give our 36er loaner a go if you want to plan a visit this way. 4 1/2 hours one way is a bit far, but we can find a place for you to crash (as in sleep, not UPD) if you want to make the trip.

Aracer, the geared is a totally different animal. It seems to have a lot to do with balance correction. High gear uses the frame for a torque arm which throws what you’re used to out the window as far as balance goes. Even though the ungeared 36 is a huge wheel, it still balances like most other ungeared unis.

To clarify, I do think a guni serves well in the case where you tend to need to take roads or fireroads to get to the trail. In that case it would seem quite convenient. I personally don’t ride enough and long enough to warrant the expense. Maybe when my kids get bigger and I have more time on my hands.

That’s very nice of you. I don’t think I can make that trip any time soon though. I’ve tried to borrow other people’s 36s, but the seat posts (including mine from my KH20 and KH29) have been too long.

It’s cool that there are other 36ers around. It might be worth a seatpost to try a local 36er. Seatposts are relatively cheap. Often local bike shops will have them in stock (along with some entry level unis). $20 to find out if you will like a 36er is a good investment. I’d get just a cheap regular 4 bolt uni post. Unless you’re trying a KH or an older Coker, there’s a good chance the diameter is a 25.4.

If you haven’t cut a post before, just make sure to deburr the end with a file if using a pipe cutter.

Of course the two I tried to try were KH and an older Coker.

One of the common shim sizes is 25.4 to 27.2. I know our local bike shop tries to keep that one in stock.

Alternatively, the old standard for uni seatposts was 22.2. Those are the second most common size on inexpensive unis.

UDC has Club 25.4 seat posts (silver or black) for $10 (free shipping now). This would work for a Nimbus 36. I know Chuck would let you try his. If you get a 27.2 seat post you are welcome to try mine.

It could always be worse. We’d have to go to 125mm cranks and shave the frame to get my wife on a 24. A 24.

Schlumpf hub on a trials so she can keep up?

Can you get 36" penguins? :stuck_out_tongue:

I think you’d be fine. Great uni if you can get it.

For speed, definately the biggest wheel you could fit. w/ varying steepness, or grade a G24 can be faster than a 36.

There’s a guy at my school, I’m guessing 3’6" or less and I bet he could fit on a 24 w/ a cut frame.

Yep - I’d figured it’s the torque effect on the frame upsetting the balance which is making it so difficult. There appears to be a positive feedback loop (for those unfamiliar with control theory, positive feedback results in instability) as the frame falling forwards out of balance results in the wheel slowing down, thus causing the frame to fall forwards more - one way out of this might be to revert to weighting the pedals more, as the pedals shouldn’t have this feedback effect. Though as mentioned above, I’m assuming it will become more natural with practice, and that crucially I need to get out on the guni more than once a week to build up the instincts. I have to admit I have wondered whether a guni 36er with it’s increased momentum might dampen down this tendency a bit, though that’s probably wishful thinking.

Um, thanks for the tip, but I have enough trouble reaching the shift buttons with the 152.5 cranks, I don’t think I’m really after longer ones. Schlumpf makes ST cranks in a wide variety of lengths, but apart from the cost disadvantage, they also have a shift which makes shifting more awkward than other cranks! If I do get some more cranks for that they’ll be 125s, which are fortunately readily available.

“I’m too short.” …really?

How old/tall is Bobsta?

That’s a very cute video, definitely making her stretch, but she’s doing it!

Looking at the frame, I bet a custom frame could make the uni even smaller, maybe a flat seat and a low foam seat (Pete’s FlatFish).

From the channel owner, petemorg1:
“she is 9 yrs old ,[] 36 uni with 90mm cranks , and the 7yr old is on a 24 with 75 mm cranks”

Personally, I’ve been wondering if / whether I could make the transistion to the 36. I’m still wondering, but now, thanks to you, Bobsta, the consequences of failure are HUGE! hahahahhaha! :smiley: