I'm just getting confused now!

I thought the 20" and 26" Pashley came out at the same time…

I learnt on a cheap 19" trials uni I picked up for £25, rode that off road quite a lot over the year I had it though now I’m on the lookout for another I’m gonna go either 24 or 26 for the trails. There’s so many to be had on ebay at the moment I’d just keep an eye on there, if you find a trials one then get that to learn as it’ll easily handle a bit more weight and abuse than a basic cheapo 20 then sell it on and move up.

I don’t think I would have learned as quickly if I had started on a 29", but maybe it’s all in my mind…when I first tried to go from a 26" to a 29" after a year of riding, I was not successful. But then a year later I had less trouble adapting to a 29" and now it’s my main ride for muni. The same thing happened when I got my first 36er, it felt akward, so I played with a 26guni for a few months, ended up going back to the 36er and now I ride one for muni.

I don’t think there is an ideal size, though a really big wheel or a really small wheel might make learning a little more challenging. Either a 24" or a 26" are a fair bet, though if you really get into unicycling, you won’t likely settle on the same wheel you learned on, so maybe go cheap on your learner, then if you stick with it, that’s when you look for a keeper.

In 1987 I bought a Pashley 20" “UMX” with a BMX tyre and a fat and heavy rim, steel cottered cranks, a dreadful seat, and lollipop bearing holders held in place with self tapping screws.

The choices in 1987 were a standard 20" (probably about a 1 3/8" section tyre); a 20" UMX (about 2.25" section?) and a 24" with a standard tyre.

I chose the UMX because the catalogue enticingly referred to “unicycle yomping” (this was only 5 years after the Falklands conflict when “yomping” became a buzzword) and because 24" seemed quite big and intimidating.

It was years later when Pashley introduced the 26" “Muni” which was a better machine with square taper hubs and a Viscount seat, but still with “lollipop” bearing holders - this time held in with bolts all the way through the fork legs.

Update: It finally broke. :frowning: