I’m not sure how they did it, but my LBS was able to tap and remove the crank. It only cost me $3. Not only did they get it off, but not that the threads are back, they said I can install it again. Of course the tapping didn’t do a thing for the fact that it’s still bent, but I’m thankful anyway.
Thank you very much for all your help and suggestions, brothers. I was really hoping that the gear puller would work, though. It was only 13 dollars and I could have used it for my bearings as well. If anyone finds a cheap bearing/gear puller that could fit the gap between the crank and bearing, as well as pull the bearing please tell me. I have a feeling I might need it someday; if not for me, to help a brother
if it wasnt too stuck you cold have just pulled the brearings, pulling the cranks off too. it isnt the best solution due to the possibility of bearing damage, but it woulda worked.
These comments are a good argument for greasing the spindle, then using a torque wrench to install the crank bolt. This produces a much more consistent result than pounding on the crank with a hammer to install it. Cost of torque wrench at Sears: about $90. Savings in grief and anguish: much more.
i reccomend putting you cranks on with a mallet and some grease in future.
and checking your cranks regularly
it is possible to cut the thread off, and then drill and tap a hole in the axle.
you can then use the same crank bolts as mtbs (get the right size tap)
you’ll need a bench drill and go slow to avoid heatng the steel up an ruining its temper,
i belive roger from unicycle.uk.com has done this successfully.
and i’ve got a suzue hub with knackered threads but i’m still waiting on getting a bench drill.
I was just being a smart-@lek, but maybe taking it to the bikeshop was the best thing to do. They may have clamped the offensive crank in their giant vise and given it a little hammer love. carjug
