I just got my first 36er and....WOW

I use a wheel grab mount on my 29" on steep hills. I can comfortably go to a still stand with no wobble. I cannot do that with any other type of mount.

I learned to mount a 36" with a wheel grab and it required less nerve. I can mount it without problem even when I am tired. These days I just do a rolling mount on the 36", but it was a good mount to learn.


The grab mount is a useful tool on the 36 because of the crank ratio and also the height to the pedals. Both of these make the transfer of your balance to being above the hub harder, so a little help with your hand goes a long way.


Wheel grab mount

My personal experience with the wheel grab mount was that the Tbar gets in the way so I adjusted to the Suicide jump mount on 125mm cranks. :slight_smile:

I wouldn’t be able to uni if not for the grab mount. I just wasn’t getting free mounting and was getting frustrated. Saw a grab mount video and not can do it most times. See no reason to change at this point, as it works and I don’t care about "style"points :slight_smile:

I assume you meant to have a w instead of a t on not.

Thanks for pointing out the video Nate128 :slight_smile:
I’ve seen that a few times since July but then forgot all about it. I have tried it a few times but didn’t get anywhere. I’ll have another try at the weekend. As I’m going to be on grass maybe I should try the rolling mount as well, but it does look so scary.
scott ttocs. There is a video of me trying to roll mount my 29’’ , I’ll dig it out and put it on you tube.
The girl you’re talking about is called Megan , from ExpertVillage you tube channel. There’s some pretty good vids on there.
I only lack a few things… height :roll_eyes: , committment :roll_eyes: and oooompfh :roll_eyes:
Sorry Nate128 I didn’t mean to hijack your thread. If I make any progress I’ll let you all know in the ‘Learning Journal’ thread.
It’s great reading about people’s progress and you can never ever have too many unicycles. The more unicyclists in the world, the better.:slight_smile:

I was going to ask a question about the 36er PSI preference but did this search for those wondering as well:


Anyhow, I have two questions:

  1. If I wanted to switch back and forth from having the t bar and not having it and still have the brakes, is there an easy way without having to continuously unscrew the bolts and taking out the t bar mount and replacing it with the disc brake mount?

The bolt threads down there is something I don’t like dealing with. Two of them are very difficult to deal with (very difficult / time consuming as in it has taken me a total of 4-5 hours of fiddling…long story)

  1. Any tips or links on bleeding Tektro Auriga SUB disc brake? I don’t have any kit to deal with it and I might just leave it to the LBS. The brakes work too well at the moment, which is how they seem to come with. I’d like to gradually slow down when braking not come to an abrupt stop which might get me killed.



  1. If the bolt thread opening under the seat (what’s the correct term for this or am I saying it correctly?) is warped or damaged, is it easy to replace and fixed or do I need to buy a new seat? Basically the holes in which you screw the bolts from the seat post, bumper, handle into.


I have NO problems whatsoever with what you’re posting thus far. Even if it’s something I already know, I might learn something new from the answers you’re getting. I’m actually somewhat interested in the wheel grab mount now myself and it’s because of you :p. The benefits posted about it is intriguing.

I’m very very easy going, no problem.

Threaded insert is the correct term. It is not particularly easy to fix. To replace it you would have to take the saddle all the way apart. You might have to replace the entire stiffener plate which would be hard as I’ve never seen one for sale. So you’re in real trouble if you strip the insert out. If one strips out you might be able to ride it anyway though.

They can be fixed, but it’s not neccessarily simple to do. Easiest for me would be to drill out the hole that’s stripped, put a thru-bolt in, put seat back together and thread the nut on with a lock washer and some loctite, grab bolt with vice grips (tightly!) and crank the nut down. Then grind off the rest of the bolt and file down rough edges.

In other words…I’m buying another seat if it happens.

Guess I better be extra careful.

Okay, that question answered, help me with some of the others too if you’re able to.

It’s not that easy to kill this inserts, but yeah it is a bit of pain to change them. You can probably get one insert replaced, but you need to get some trash seat to have a source of spares.

And for changing T-Bar to just brake configuration, you can replace a T part with any short pipe in 22.2mm size e.g. cut end of handlebar which LBSs should have plenty when they shorten the handlebars. It will be further from the seat than the brake mount, but with regulated angle you can get it bit closer to the seat handle. I think it is worth trying as it would save you lots of time if you plan to change it frequently.

Ah, okay. Yeah I was thinking about that a bit but was unsure about where my brakes will be located since the T bar mount is a bit further down and with the bar I have to either have the brakes inconveniently located further to the back due to the short pipe suggestion OR have it to the front sticking up where the T bar would normally be. That’s a hard choice, further back and down would make the brake handle harder to reach and in the front, the handle can be really damaged if there’s a hard forward fall.

I’m looking at it again…maybe I can hang it near the back part of the pipe and with the handle pointing to the right so while I grab the handle, I can maybe thumb the brake handles. Then it’ll be less susceptible to a front fall and a side fall is usually not as hard or in contact first with the ground. Hmmm! Sounds interesting. To the LBS! Odd enough, my lbs closest to me opens two hours a day or something :o

A picture for those wondering about the T Bar mount is like, new unicyclist friendly picture reference.


It just reminded me that when I got a brake for a first time I was riding like this for a moment. It was sticking out quite a bit, but it did survive.

What I’d like to know is why KH (or anyone) can’t put teeth in that joint, so it will stay under stress conditions. Like this (pictured below). I use these for mic stand boom arms, and they do not move under any conditions. I’m thinking about adapting one to T-bar use. (Sorry about the thread-jack.)

locking angle.jpg

im guessing doing that to the bracket would increase the cost of the bar dramatically. A plastic part can be moulded. At the moment a metal part needs to be stamped or machined in order to be toothed.

If you have a permenant position you like for the bar, you could drill through all three pieces and fit a bolt. This would permanently lock the bar in one place.

Cateye Urban Wireless Bike Computer and T Bar Training

Okay, I went to the LBS and they were very nice. Due to an upcoming move to a story across the street, they said they don’t have the 22.2 mm seat post at the moment that they can sell to me. I was planning to use it so I can quickly take out the T- Bar and replace it with that in case I want to go without the handlebar but still want the brake. Near the end of this month they said.

I recently purchased a Cateye Urban Wireless cycle/bike computer.

Snatched it fast for $20 new.

Magnet on spokes and Sensor near the hub. I read putting it near the hub or rim is the same. People tend to put near hub because it’s closer to the spokes where the magnet is.

I found out a few things that’s absurdly weird:

  1. It doesn’t work in my room! (took me awhile to figure this out too. A What the Blank moment)
  2. The back of the device needs to be pointed towards the sensor (took me the whole day yesterday to figure it out, thought I had bad batteries or a bad sensor)
  3. The magnet needs to be about 5 mm away from the sensor and should be facing the sensor as shown.

The Oracle 36" has 45 psi with the default NightRider tires and I’ve set it to 283 cm. I heard a post where it says I should sit on it to account for rider weight but I didn’t.

Today I used it, fastest speed was when I tried to race after a street biker. I got around 13.5 mph. So I can’t wait till I’m around 18-20 mph. I would be surprised though since it’s fairly fast and I ran out of straight road not to mention I’m not use to pedalling that fast. I am still unable to use my brakes well, it still scares me as the braking is not similar to a bike which is much steadier since it has two wheels.

I lowered the T bar a bit in order to not hit my chest when I try to static mount. I’ve gotten use to it, but the T bar does take my concentration away and kills my mounting percentage. I trained for a bit over an hour to get back to being able to static and roll mount with it on.

I have hit my ankle area twice on the t bar getting off from a failed mount. Nothing bad but it still hurts a bit.

Experiences With The T Bar Riding Around The Block:

Since two days ago I just tried with the T bar and rode it on one side of the block. I’m unable to make nice turns, especially 90 degree turns.

Today, I finally went around a large block with it. Went around it 5 miles (computer says). I can somewhat use the T bar but I will commonly let it go if I start to lose balance. There’s cars on my right at all times and I once almost rode into one so not chancing it. I also let go on odd declines in the sidewalk, when I’m near pedestrians because I have better swerve control without holding the t bar, and when I do those corner turns. Here’s one of the four turns, the other turns are sorta similar, maybe a little more room, but I find almost any kind of 90 degree turn almost impossible at this point unless I have A LOT of room.

Would you guys be able to do a turn like that with your hands fully on the handlebar like that? I know the handle bars are meant for more of a straight ride but I notice that it seems somewhat possible:

Video is time linked, but in case it doesn’t, check past the 0:45 mark as they turn right.

Unicycle Video With A 90 Degree Turn With Hands on Handlebars

Any handlebar tips and such?

I also find putting my hand while going up a slope rather difficult, but it’s only been day two.

It might not work in your room because of other electronic interference

I’m guessing it didn’t work in your room because you weren’t turning the wheel fast enough. There’s probably a minimum speed that the speedometer works because on a 36er the magnet doesn’t come around as often.

It’s probably as mentioned by Dane M. It would explain why my bart ticket magnet strips keeps getting demagnetized. I have no idea how to fix it either, the only thing that was on at the time is my computer.

But I would have thought that a device being sold for around $40 be able to deal with a bit of interference. Guess not.


I tested it by taking the sensor magnet and place it on the sensor on and off. I tried spinning the wheel, heavy and with the pedals swinging around, wasn’t have that haha…
It starts reading fine when I leave my room.

I ran to Walgreen in the middle of the night last night because I thought it was a dead battery. I refused to open the battery because they tried to sell it to me at $6 and that just doesn’t seem right… I believe Walmart and some other stores had it for $2-3.