I’m looking into buying my first unicycle. I’m on a heck of a budget, and am just starting to comparison shop in my area. Does anyone have any advice on brands or styles to avoid?
Also, a book I consulted said that there are “bicycle” and “tricycle” style unicycles, and to stay away from the “tricycle” type. Is this accurate? If so, can anyone elaborate on that vague warning?
I appreciate any help.
Dunno what you mean by bicycle or tricycle unicycles unless you mean unicycles with some sort of auxilliary wheels for stability when you’re learning. (There is something like a skate cycle that I think is a unicycle, but with a skateboard truck on the back to help with stability.)
All these ideas are daft. With enthusiasm and a bit of effort, you can learn to ride a unicycle in about 5 - 10 hours of half hour sessions, without these gimmicks. After that, it’s just practise practise practise to improve and to develop new skills. It’s agreat hobby, and you can explore it in may different ways, ranging from long distance touring (yes, really - 100 mile days are possible) to trials (hopping onto and from obstacles and across gaps) to freestyle (the unicycle equivalent of ice dancing?) to MUNi (mountain unicycling) and so on.
So, what to buy? the accepted wisdom is to buy a mid range uni with a 20 inch wheel as a first machine. When you know a bit more about what aspects of the sport you enjoy, you upgrade and tune the uni, and eventually buy a different one that really suits you.
if you are quite tall, you might prefer a 24 inch wheel as your first machine. There are pros and cons. Bigger wheels are faster and smoother to ride, but less nimble.
Go to www.unicycle.com
or (in the UK) to
www.unicycle.uk.com
And look at the Yuni (known in the UK as the Nimbus). Others may recommend the Torker. You won’t get rubbish from unicycle.com. You might get rubbish from a local bike shop. Many local bike shops have a cheap crummy unicycle in stock that they’ve had since Adam was a lad.
Have a look at the websites then come back with more questions. :0)
Could the “tricycle” reference be to lollipop bearings?
I’m thinking that perhaps tricycle types have a one piece crank like the OLD pieces of junk, whereas the bicycle types have 3 piece cranksets.
If you are on a very tight budget, the Sun unicycles are good enough to learn on and very inexpensive. I’d try to at least get a Black Torker if you can afford it. I believe there are still some of last year’s models (with the rounded crown) available on ebay for less than $100
This is the 2004 model of the Torker that I was referring to:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=675
It cost a little more than buying last year’s model from ebay, but at least you’ll be buying from a VERY reputable dealer
I just bought a Unistar LX 20 inch a few days ago and it has been treating me good to learn on. Feels solid enough to me and I’ve dropped it quite a few times. I expect it to last me a year or so then I’ll get a new one.
Thank you all for your input - this is really helpful.
That’s the model I was looking at, actually. Is there a limit to how much a rider can weigh? I’m rather on the heavy side, and I’d hate to sink $100 into a unicycle only to break it.
Any basic 20 inch unicycle (or 24 inch) will take any normal weight of adult for the purposes of learning and basic riding. If you were too heavy for the unicycle, the exertion of riding would probably finish you off! However, the strength of the unicycle does matter if you get into more extreme riding, such as riding off road, doing stunts, hopping and jumping, and so on.
Realistically, for every 10 people who buy unicycles, I bet there is only 1 who goes on to do these things. This forum is not representative of the unicycling world as a whole, in terms of the profile of the members. Read here about 6 foot drops, 3 foot jumps, 100 mile rides, and then notice that 90% of unicycles languish in sheds and garges, having been ridden only a few times.
So, my advice remains that you should buy a decent mid range one. Later, if you 're one of the lucky 10% who get into unicycling in a big way, you may find that the strength of the unicycle becomes an issue - but by then, you will be in a position to choose one which suits you. Variables include wheel diameter, rim width, tyre section, spoke pattern and gauge, crank type, hub type, seat post diameter… if you look at the specification of the handbuilt Kris Holm 24 MUni at www.unicycle.com you will get an idea of what is available at the high end of the market.
But for now, buy, learn, enjoy, dream.
Re: I could use some advice…
On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 13:37:02 -0500, “Krashin’Kenny” wrote:
>I’m thinking that perhaps tricycle types have a one piece crank like the
>OLD pieces of junk, whereas the bicycle types have 3 piece cranksets.
That’s what I was thinking too. A kid’s tricycle usually has a single
piece of rod bent into something like a Z shape for the front wheel. A
bicycle on the other hand usually has a straight crank axle and two
separate cranks that are attached to it. If they call the former a
“tricycle style unicycle” then their advice is right. A unicycle with
this type of crank set cannot be serious.
I like the idea of not having to balance when out on a ride - joe
Re: I could use some advice…
“Grim_Malady” <Grim_Malady@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> wrote
in message
news:Grim_Malady.1bcypw@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com…
>
> Thank you all for your input - this is really helpful.
>
> Krashin’Kenny wrote:
> > *This is the 2004 model of the Torker that I was referring to:
> >
> > http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=675
> >
Search on ebay for “torker unicycle”. There are 2004 models for under $100.
I just got my Torker LX last month off ebay and paid $70 plus shipping.
–
Steveyo