I’ve tried a prototype Huni-Rex. The Q-factor didn’t bother me, nor did the wide frame.
When I took sharp turns my pedals sometimes hit the ground, but I didn’t go too fast.
Somewhere in the gearing or cranks or whatever there was something that couldn’t be tightened enough, so the cranks had a bit of free play (I think it’s called free play. It’s probably what someone above called slop."). But it was only a prototype.
Pedaling below the center of wheel didn’t bother me at all. I actually liked being closer to the ground.
I’d like to know this too. My earliest experienced with geared-up unicycles was from experimenting with various sprocket sizes on a Schwinn Giraffe. That’s not the best configuration for high-gear riding, but it was I had at the time. We settled on a 28:48 ratio, which made for really challenging freemounting!
Anyway, if the sprockets can be changed, it opens a wide variety of speed options, but not with convenient gear-changing.
I’ve been trying Huni-Rex on EUC week ago and it was really fun to ride, but I personally consider it mostly a toy to try. You could ride it after a few minutes and it is really fast for such small wheel. However the ‘free play’ in gears was too noticable for me. Probably these unis used by everybody to try and falling down quite often where getting loose much faster than in normal use, but anyway one of Huni-Rex guys was tightening them all day.
I would not take Huni-Rex as regular city uni, because of the cranks hitting the ground on tight turn. I didn’t like that at all. On a tour it may be an interesting option though.
I wonder how the timing is being synced between the two cranks. If it is solely relying on the chains I would think that over time you would see the cranks go out of sync. Before long you would have one crank ahead of the other, and it would be like having a twisted spindle on a standard uni.
From what I understand it is just relying on the chains to be in sync, and to get out of snyc one side of the drivetrain would have to wear quicker than the other. It would make replacing parts more problematic as you’d always have to replace in pairs unless the wear was very minor.
I’d think the slop in the system would drive you nuts before being of out sync would. Imagine both cranks with independent slop… You could help alleviate the growing slop as the parts wear by chain tensioning but also adds another item to break/fix/tune.
All the cons, few pros, the pedal strike issue would make it a pavement only uni and even then a sharp turn could send you flying if you clipped the ground at speed. Going fast, but on such a small wheel, why bother when an big wheel already goes that fast and is more stable, lighter, and has better pedal clearance.
It is suprising that they didn’t locate the crank spindle in front of the axle, that would have addressed the pedal clearance and maybe given some mechanical advantage…
Like Tom said, gearing up big, that would be interesting to try, but the pedal clearance would make me very nervous. The Nimbus version is kitted up with Nimbus parts, so maybe they got a good deal on the wheel/frame. I’d like to see this set up on a 29" or a 36", esp if it could be geared down on the 36"
There’s been several threads here now on the huni-rex, including discussion/comparisons with other geared unis.
The overwhelming consensus is that it’s deeply flawed- particularly with it’s tendency to pedal strikes (pedal hitting the ground).
I don’t recall any huni riders posting positive comments on it- additionally, to my knowledge, none of the available huni videos, including the companies own promotional vids, make it look like it’s in any way a good ride.
I think the huni-rex is a clear lesson in the wisdom of putting out a prototype and getting experienced riders to test it- before going into production.
It looks like the upper gears are ordinary track cogs, held in place with lock rings. I don’t understand how you could guarantee the final position of the cog teeth (and thus the crank attached to them) since there isn’t a spline or similar, forcing the cog to a particular place. You just tighten it till it stops, and that’s not a very predictable position. And the lockring doesn’t really “lock” it into place; it just stops it from unscrewing very far.