Ok, I guess this is all my own fault for being a tight arse. However, after borrowing a crank extractor a few times (Thanks Roland), I thought it was about time I bought my own one. I looked about on the net, and found I could get one from eBay for half the price of the UDC one. Bargain! Or so I thought…
However, I got around to using it today, and found that the kind of metal it is made from is only slightly firmer than chocolate on a warm day. If it had been exactly the same consistancy as chocolate, then I would have just ended up with some goo in my cranks. Unfortunatly, it was just tough enough to try to work it’s way in to the hole in the end of the hub, and damage the thread.
So, I wasn’t able to get the crank off, and, more worringly, I can’t get the bolt back in. All for a three quid saving!
Has anyone else had this happen to them? How would you suggest I try to repair the hub? Would running a Tap or Dye (can never remember which is which) in to the hub re-cut the thread to what it was, or is this likely to do more damage? If the hole is totally buggered, and I don’t want to buy a new hub, would I be best off getting the crank welded on and accept the fact that I won’t be able to change it again?
I’m only asking because I’ve made this mistake more than once myself…:o
Were you perchance trying to screw the big fat bit into the thread in the crank while the thin bit in the middle was still screwed in, rather than out? When you do this, the thin bit in the middle pushes against the end of the axle, so try as you might you can’t screw the big fat bit in.
Undo the thin bit in the middle all the way, then screw in the fat bit, then tighten up the thin bit in the middle.
For once, I am lost for more precise terminology.:o
> Were you perchance trying to screw the big fat bit into the thread in
> the crank while the thin bit in the middle was still screwed in,
rather
> than out?
No, the thin inner bit was certainly right the way out, and the fat
outer bit was able to go in 5 or 6 threads, so engaged fully.
Looking again at the tool, and thinking back to the other one that I’ve
used, I’ve noticed that the thin inner bit is made from a single piece
of (softish) metal, rather than a two piece affair where the tip is
free-floating from the screwey bit. I think that is the fundamental
problem with the cheapo tool.
> Undo the thin bit in the middle all the way, then screw in the fat
bit,
> then tighten up the thin bit in the middle.
>
> For once, I am lost for more precise terminology.:o
I know what you mean. It’s like your wassisname hasn’t got enough
thingy words
Anyway, I’ll have a go tomorrow to see if I can sort things out, either
with a thin pokey bit, or, if that fails, a tap.
“Mikefule” wrote in message …
>
> Well, that only goes to prove two points:
>
> 1) Never buy cheap tools.
I realise that by the very nature of this thread being here that I am
probably not in a position to argue, however, I normally would do. My
motto for tools, and many other things, is to buy a cheap set to start
with, and then by seeing what wears out first, you know what to invest
decent money in. I guess I should add in a proviso that the tool should
be up to the job for at least one use!
> 2) If a job’s worth doing, it’s worth getting a little man in to do
it
> for you.
Yeah, but have you seen the way Andy Parry changes cranks?!?
Cheap spanners damage nuts and bolts because they don’t fit quite right, and the jaws spread under the force of tightening/untightening, so that they slip and take the edges of the flats.
Cheap screw drivers don’t quite fit the slot, so they tend to chew the screw head.
Cheap saw blades flex too much and twist, causing uneven and angulated cuts.
Cheap drill bits are not always perfectly straight, and the go blunt easily, meaning that they tend to skate over the surface of the piece of work.
And now, as we have demonstrated, cheap crank extractors damage the cranks.
Cheap tools are a false economy. Buy cheap, buy twice.
<Wags stern finger.>
