How to get ultra stubborn Profile cranks off?

Hi everyone, I am having serious trouble getting my right Profile crank off the hub, when I was installing it, I put plenty of copper grease on and aligned it with the spindle perfectly, then it took a lot of hammer blows to finally smash it on, it was extremely difficult in itself to get it on even!

Now, I think it’s time I get it rebuilt with new spokes, and I’ll need to get the right crank off to do so. Does anyone have any tips or ideas on how I may take it off? It was probably the most stubborn thing to get on in the first place, let alone trying to get it off!

I’ve phoned Profile Europe, and they say that the official Profile crank tool won’t do the job because the axle is fixed in the hub and that I’ll need to take the axle out which I don’t want to do. However, is it possible to get it off any other way? I heard that the Evercraft bearing puller works, but does it work so that I don’t need to remove the axle or anything?

Thanks v.much for any help :slight_smile:

get a splitter, my dad has a ball joint splitter and its like a fork that gets wider near the top. you put it between the crank and the wheel and you hit it with a hemmer and the crank falls off

a ball joint remover for a car? it’s like a giant tuning fork/chisel you hammer to separate that part at the bottom of the axle where it connects below the wheel.

Bearing puller is another suggestion, I got a 2 pin one, but i dunno if they’d grip.

Then again i never tried any of these and i dunno the risks of damaging sommat.

Cheers dale, but I don’t think I can get hold of that thing.

I think it’s gotta be something like an Evercraft bearing puller, can anyone explain to me how this thing works for taking Profile cranks off? I hope I don’t have to remove the spindle out of the hub to use the bearing puller though :thinking:

Are you talking about the crank arm, which connects to your pedal? If so I know a solution that works every time (I have three unis with Profile hubs).

JL

crank puller?

aren’t all profile’s stubborn? :stuck_out_tongue:
here’s all i know on the subject atm:

  1. Remove the crank locking bolt using a long allan key or adaptor on a socket set.
  2. Insert the Profile extraction tool and tap while holding the crank or use the Evercraft bearing puller when using this use the small side of the puller and place it over the bulge of the crank.

ok, so i dont know where to get a profile extraction tool from, but “Evercraft bearing puller” is supposed to work according to this text.

You hammered it on so, in the absense of an industrial strength gear puller, you have to hammer it off. Here’s what I do. Stick a rod or an old seat post through the spokes from the opposite side and line it up on the crank arm as close to the hub as you can. Put a thick rag or a section of newspaper between the rod and the crank arm so you don’t ding or bend the crank. Hammer the crap out of the rod, keeping it centered on the arm. It WILL come off. I put the wheel on an old bed–enough support but soft enough to let the crank arm come off.

JL

I don’t think this is such a good idea… nor is the ball joint splitter… you’re putting forces on the crank at an angle to the axle, possibly deforming the crank. The damage might not show up right away, but repeated abuse can weaken the damaged area until you get a “wobble” in your crank.

The bearing puller would be my second choice of removal tool… I’ve been able to remove stubborn cranks by whacking the living crap out of the Profile removal tool (without displacing the axle), but if that fails, the bearing puller applies the necessary force to the crank without threatening any damage.

What you need to realize in using the Profile tool is that it uses the inertia of the crank to remove itself… you’re displacing the hub (by whacking it through the removal tool) while the crank tries to remain stationary. Make sure the tool is installed correctly (read the manual!) and the hub is supported such that the forces of your hammering are not put on the spokes or wheel… I made a support out of a couple sections of 2x4 and sat the hub on top of that, then hammered away.

It doesn’t make sense that Profile gave you that advice… their manual says the installation tool (bolt) can also be used to do removal…

Are you getting any gap between your crank and hub? Have you tried the removal tool at all? If you can use it to get even the slightest gap, then you can get the crank all the way off… it just takes some elbow grease and some patience…

true story

ive done that before and it worked, i used a wooden dowl instead of a rod or seat post though…that way i didnt need the rag…

one thing that is most important is to have the other crank on or you may hammer the crank off but take the axle with it…so make sure for what-ever you do to, have the oposite side crank mounted so theaxle stays put while you remove the stuck one.

John Long and Jagur have it right.

The manual is written for the bike spindle incarnation of the Profile setup and is misleading to a unicyclist. The bike spindle incarnation floats the axle and, for this case, it’s trivial to remove cranks using the manual’s instructions. This is the setup I have on my prototype 6’ giraffe and it works like a charm.

With the latest Profile unicycle hubs, you’d be lucky to move the axle by pounding on it, which you really don’t want to do. Pounding on the crank from the opposite side with padding is the way.

As far as “the inertia of the crank” being effective, this (again) only works with a floating axle, which is not the case with the unicycle hub. With the unicycle hub, the inertia of the entire wheel would come into play. And honestly, you don’t want to mess with the position of the axle in the hub. It’s put on with a high-power press with extremely tight tolerances, which is why one no longer hears of Profile hub slop.

Dynamite!!

so how can i remove my axle? :thinking:

Are you saying you have a Profile bottom bracket on your giraffe?

Erm, I have been thinking of these different methods… But technically, couldn’t the Profile extraction tool actually work? Because, it’s aim is to smack the axle off the crankarm right? Therefore since the axle is attached to the hub, and the hub to the spokes and rim, couldn’t I use the Profile crank tool to smack the whole wheel off the crankarm? If you get what I mean? I hope this could work as I know one or two BMXers who might have a Profile crank tool they could lend me…

Or am I getting it all wrong?

EDIT: also, i really feel I need to make this clear, but my right crankarm was probably 10x harder to get on than anyone else’s here. I mean, I coated it in copper grease on the splines, put it on the spindle straight, and it took literally 100 or more strikes with a block of wood and mallet to get it on (no jokes). It was really that hard to get it on…

you got your advice, now get to work :)…your also not the first to hammer one on or ultimatly use a blow torch to get one off.

oh yeah, the blowtorch! It expands the metal doesnt it? Hmm, i’ll see if this works, other than that, is it possible to remove the crank with a Profile crank tool? Seeing as for the BMX spindle it gets pushed off the crankarm… couldnt it work for the unicycle hub by pushing the WHOLE wheel off the crankarm seeing as the spindle is locked in the hub body?

Lucky Joe Hodges found his Profile crank tool today! :smiley:

for uni’s the tool only works for get it half way on, not off.

NO the tool will not work to get your crank off, for the 3 rd time from the 3rd person… :roll_eyes:

Then can you explain to me how I was able to get my crank of using ONLY the tool and a rubber mallet? Oh, and all I did was smack the tool a whole bunch…