How does this work?

I just purchased this unicycle and I have a few questions about it. First off I was told that it was a schwinn, but really the seat is the only thing that says that. The second thing is; how is the seat post suppose to attach? The post coming off of the frame has a hole going through one side of it. The seat post that is on the seat slides over the post coming up from the frame. I don’t believe it is the right seat post at all. I just need some help with this and I have a feeling that there are some experts on this site that can help me out. I would appreciate any help you can give. You can tell me that it is crappy if you like, but I paid $25 for it and it is what I am hopefully going to learn on. I think I attached the photos correctly. Thank you for the help.

First of all, welcome and the photos came out fine.

That is no schwinn except for as you say the seat. It’s not even a Schwinn seat post. Schwinn unis have bladed (flat) frame legs. And Schwinn seatposts have holes in them about every inch, which is bolted through the frame. The multiple wholes in the seat post is how the seat height is adjusted on a schwinn.

I’m no old or odd unicycle expert, so I have not seen a seatpost setup like that. But we have people here who have seen just about every uni that has come along and they will tell you anything they can about what you have there.

LarsenAA,
Wow! The uni is really a piece of work. It looks like the Schwinn seat is from the '80s. But, as Ezas says, the seat post is definitely not a Schwinn.

Maybe you could cut a 1/4" slot into the stem down to that hole, then use a regular seat post clamp to crimp it tight. Unfortunately, that would mean further investment into this uni. Money that, in all honesty, would be better spent on a unicycle that would be easier to learn on and in all likelihood will last a lot longer.

I hate to say it, but I don’t think you got what you paid for. For fifty bucks you could probably find a cheap but serviceable uni, with a more comfortable seat, on craigslist or eBay.

On a more positive note, welcome to the forums and welcome to unicycling.

Geoff

Hmm, that’s an odd frame. You may want to pop into a cycle shop that sells unicycles and see if they have a seat post that will work for you, or with a bit of luck theres a forum member thats close to you that can help out.

I think it’s worth $25 for a collector of rare/vintage unicycles. Maybe not worth $25 if the purpose is to learn riding, although without having seen this uni in real life it’s hard to say. It could still be perfectly rideable - after the seat is attached that is.

LarsenAA, how much play (room) is there between the seat post and the seat tube? If it’s hardly any, naturequack’s suggestion could work, for an investment of just a seat post clamp.

This thread discusses Hedstrom unicycles (of which this is one). It talks about seatpost attachment but doesn’t otherwise contain a lot of good news. However, you’ve already taken a significant step towards becoming a unicyclist so rejoice!

I would take ezas’ advice about cutting a small slot down the seattube and using a regular seat clamp. A bike shop could certainly do this for you.

You could also shim a loose fit with strips from aluminum cans.

That was naturequacks suggestion about the slot. I was the one who didn’t have anything very useful to add, except being the first to say welcome and that all you smart fellers would be along soon.

The dang thing about seats is they need to be attached well. Seats on Uni’s take a pounding and one that twists on every fall would get old FAST!

I think the slot is the way to go if an economical way to cut the slot can be come up with.

Anyway how do you cut a slot in only 1 side of a tube? Iffn it was me I would use my dremel tool, but is that what bikes shops do?

Would there be any real down side to having the slot on both sides? Seems to me it would only help clamping pressure and that makes the cut a pretty simple affair with a hacksaw. Well with a vice and a steady hand fairly simple, otherwise not as simple and depending on the material could take some time to work down.

As a last resort maybe the ‘schwinn solution’ would work. Three holes in the seat tube and one hole in the frame.

Ok, I’m done thinking out loud.

Dang double post

I think with a hacksaw you could cut at enough of an angle to cut only one side. Although like ezas I see no problem in having two slots either.

The ‘schwin solution’ involves two separate half-frames that are clamped together (and of course holes). But since this is a single seat tube, not two halves, it won’t work well, as in that there will remain some play.

I wonder what the single hole in the original seat tube was intended for.

Thank you all for the advice. When I bought it off of Craigslist it was presented to me as a schwinn and that is why I thought it was a good deal. Unfortunately I wanted to make sure I could ride a uni before I spent the big money on a good one. The up side of owning this uni is that anything else I get will be amazingly better. It can only get better from here. Feel free to keep the suggestions coming in. I might try the holes and the bolt technique. By what you guys are saying I can’t make it any worse than what it is. Ha ha.

Welcome aboard! Your unicycle is a Hedstrom; says right on it. That’s a brand of “cheapie” from the 70s. It’s a piece of crap. But you did not get a bad deal, because you have a very durable seat and post there, which may be useful on your future unicycles. The Hedstrom should be fine for your needs. If anything, you will experience some resistance from the non-bearings when your weight’s on the unicycle, but I think it will be okay.

Your seat is probably from a 1995-or-later Schwinn; before that, the Viscount Schwinns did not have the name printed on the side. But a Schwinn seatpost would be skinny and have holes in it. Probably the easiest solution for your situation is to drill a hole all the way through your post and frame. You can make additional holes in the seatpost to figure out your best height. Just don’t make them too close together. Then you’ll need a bolt, locknut and a pair of washers. High tech (like the Schwinn)!

The single hole in your frame is probably for an “anti-twist bolt” which some of those cheapie unicycles had. It pokes against the seat post to keep it from twisting.

Be happy. You do not want to have the original seat for that uni. :slight_smile:

The cheap way is with a hacksaw, on an angle. Better with a powerful Dremel or similar, but for this project you don’t need to do either. Plus, the seat post is apparently on the outside so that might not work anyway…

You can ride. This forum is filled with people from 6 to 60 who have learned.

Learning to ride is just a decision to keep trying until you get it. It’s not if you can ride, it’s when. It can take persistence though . . . try not to get frustrated and you will get it.

And when you can ride you will feel a real sense of accomplishment. There is something about controlling something that can fall any direction that is very satisfying and fun.

All right this is what I did. I drilled a hole through the front of the frame and seat post and stuck a bolt in there. Then since the outer tube diameter was a little bigger I put a bolt in it going from the side. You are probably thinking that Schwinn’s was bad enough with the one bolt, now I have two. There was too much side to side play in it. I figured I couldn’t hurt it.

I was just out practicing and I noticed when my dominate foot is in the 6 o’clock position and I am rocking back and forth I have more control then when my left foot is at 6 o’clock. Maybe that is the way it is suppose to be. I can really feel it in my calfs. I will persevere until I get it. I am 32, so I am in the middle of that range of people that learn and do ride. That means there is hope. I want to learn for the shock & awe of it all. Thank you for the help. You guys are great.

Sounds good. The Schwinn’s frame is split down the middle so tightening the one bolt pulls the outer diameter in around the post. Your design makes sense for a single piece frame.

Virtually everyone finds rocking back and forth easier with a specific foot down, though it is not always their dominant foot. Most skills tend to come easier on one side over the other which is why it is impressive to see someone do something both ways.

The calves are a good place to feel it. As your stabilizing muscles strengthen and acclimate you will find correcting your balance easier.

I will give another update. I am not sure if anyone will check back, but in case they do it will be here. If nothing else, it will help me to voice my frustration. I am getting better at rocking, but when my dominant foot is in the 6 o’clock position and my left leg is suppose to come over the top I run into trouble. At first I thought it was operator error as pointed out by my wife, but then I realized that my crank (moment I think you call them) is out of alignment. So when my right foot is at 6 o’clock my left foot is hanging out at around 10:45- 11:00 o’clock. And that is why I think I am having a tough time getting going. Because when I do push down on the left, it wants to take me backwards unless my other pedal is at least to 7 o’clock or so. And we all know what happens if you lean forward and pedal backwards. Between the poor purchase of a unicycle and some frustrating times trying to ride this silly thing, I am really enjoying myself and looking forward to getting this down. Though some days I think it would be easier to start a post asking 300 people for a one-time donation of $1 so then I can buy a Nimbus Muni, or something of the sort. Is there anyone out there that lives near a place called Sioux Falls, SD that rides unicycles? Just checking.

Ahahahaha! I’m not laughing at your misfortune, instead I find it funny that you thought unicyclers called cranks “moments.” They don’t really, but a lot of riders covet the Kris Holm brand of cranks which are named Moments.

Could you post a picture of the cranks? From what I’ve read I think they are one solid piece on that unicycle but I’m not sure. Either way there might be a way to realign them well enough so that they don’t hinder your learning.

Really glad to hear you are enjoying it. Hey if you do manage to find out that you love unicycling the money you saved not getting a nicer beginner unicycle can go towards a better “upgraded” ride, and if you’ll want to do MUni you’d have probably ended up getting a new uni regardless of the one you started on.

Try stopping by the local bike shop (LBS) to see if they have a seat post shim that will tighten your post evenly in the frame. You might be able to use a clamp after that. BTW it looks like the frame is bent in the picture.

$25 bucks is a small entry fee and look - you are already learning a lot!
There are plenty of decent learner uni’s on unicycle.com for under a hundred bucks. There really isn’t a vintage unicycle market just fyi - the new ones are better!

If your cranks are misaligned it can mean two things: one of the cranks is stripped or the hub is bent from someone doing jumps or hops on the uni. Your local bike shop can quickly check the cranks, but they won’t be able to help with the hub. If it’s the hub I’d just buy a whole new unicycle because it’ll annoy the hell out of you and the frustration will interfere with your progress. I don’t thinks bent hubs are fixable.

Just have to deal with it.

Thank you all for the replies. If for no other reason to ride a unicycle it would be worth it to be part of this community. I have been reading a lot of forums and everyone is so nice and helpful. I guess because of all of my reading that is where I got confused about the crank/moment difference. We don’t have to mention to Kris that I thought I had “moments” on my sweet hedstrom Uni. Lol

I took some pictures of the crank, and also how it attaches to the hub. I tried to put the crank on straight, but the bolt that goes through also is wedge shaped and when I get it tight it moves it over out of alignment. I think it is the way it was machined. At any rate, there are guys out there that ride one footed and I hope to be one someday, so I might as well practice by getting my down pedal further back before pushing the top one forward.

Thanks again for humoring me and taking a look at my post. Someday you will be able to say that you know a guy that learned on a hedstrom uni with crooked cranks. If I ever did Muni with this, I would probably ghost ride it off a cliff.

I think you may be putting the bolt in from the wrong side of the crank. By the way, the name of the bolt is a cotter. It wedges the crank to the axle shaft. Cottered cranks were notorious for coming loose and need constant retightening. If you Google “cottered cranks” you’ll find some good info about the best ways to adjust the pins. If you just tighten the nut on the bolt, it wont hold for long. You have to insert the bolt, tap it into place, then tighten the nut. Repeat as necessary.