Im wondering if any of you know whether these will not bend, or at the very least last 6 months or something… Right now, If im lucky I can hop a foot, and those hops are mainly what fucked the last uni.
Another thing, Im not sure if Im hopping right. When I hop I stand up, grab under the seat, hop and land every bit of my wieght on the pedals. When I’m coming down am I supposed to absorb some of the weight with my hands on the seat?
Yeah, I like that one the best. I really like the way it looks.
But I wanna be sure it’s going to be able to withstand a large number of foot and possibly more than foot drops when I get more skilled, because Im completely addicted to unicycling and ride like 5 hours a day.
No, you will only break the seat if you are putting weight on it as you land. Bend your legs as you land to absorb some of the impact. As for those unicycles, Definitely go for the nimbus II. However, I definitly suggest saving up a bit longer and getting either the Torker DX or the Qu-ax splined muni, both of those will last you a very long time, especially as you progress in skill. They should be under rough terrain on unicycle.com.
I would suggest, first of all, that you pick your words carefully on this forum. Four letter words simply aren’t necessary for getting your ideas across…please find other, more suitable words in your posts. I’m not the first one to bring up this subject in a thread…we really do hope to keep unicyclist.com a place of class.
That said, have you considered a Torker DX? It’s very strong and isn’t much more expensive than one of the other cycles you are looking at. It is at:
In my honest opinion…None of the unis youve chosen will withstand anything more than your current one did. You should save some money and get This one.
Its very strong and will take pretty much anything you can dish to it.
And if you want a uni that can be used for trials and Muni then yes a 24" Torker DX would be better…You can do both on a muni but Muni on a trials is hard work.
Listen to the people recommending splined-axle unis. Though your technique will doubtless improve, if you killed a regular square-taper axle in under a month, you’ll save money by going straight to splined.
That said, it sounds like your early hopping experiences have been pretty hard on the uni. I don’t think I killed any axles until my second or third year of riding. Some of those were cottered, which actually probably held up better because the pin would get destroyed without putting so much twisting force on the axle.
Learn to hop gently, absorbing landings with your knees and ankles, and you’ll be able to hop or drop higher without putting any more stress on the uni than you have so far. Enjoy!
Well, Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. It’s a damn good thing I didn’t go and waste 185$ on another unicycle that I would end up just twistin again. I was tryin to keep the price under 200$, but It looks like I’m just going to go for that Torker Dx. Also, What exactly makes a “splined” hub so strong?
Dude, where did you get your information? Do you just make sh*t up when you answer people’s questions?
Most splined axles (such as Profile, KH and Qu-Ax) are heat-treated Chromoly Steel… this is the same material used in the UDC square-taper hubs. (see unicycle.com’s product pages for details)
Many high-end square taper cranks are made from solid aluminum (such as Odyssey’s Black Widow) while splined cranks such as those from Profile are hollow steel tubes. Comparing the materials in these two cranksets, the steel has a higher breaking strength than the aluminum, but the aluminum has a higher yield strength. This means the steel cranks will bend before the aluminum ones will… but the aluminum cranks will snap before the steel does. You pick your definition of “strength” and apply that here as you will… whether one or the other is “alot” stronger is debatable…
Much of the strength of a crank comes from its design, not just the material it is made from. We’ve seen failures of both splined and cotterless cranks… there is no clear winner as to the stronger crank. In my personal experience, I’ve broken two square taper hubs. My cheapo aluminum cranks took the forces I applied to them, but the hub snapped like a twig. The greater strength of a splined crankset comes from a thicker axle, not necessarily the cranks themselves…
yea ive got one of those 24" Nimbus II unis. they are great and fairly strong, u can do a 4ft drop on them if u know how to land properly os i recommened getting it.
I really would suggest a dedicated trials unicycle if you’re into trials riding. While a strong mountain unicycle will “do” for trials, it’s also a lot more unicycle to be throwing around.
You’ll notice your hops will be higher if your unicycle is smaller
dude i got last year’s torker DX for $200 @ Amazon.com
and i have done quite a bit of stuff (jumping off a 6’ ledge w/o bending the axle) to it and the only thing so far is loose spokes (which i need to get tightened)
So I offically ordered the 24 inch unistar with the splined hub etc.
It’ll be here friday, and damn am I anxious for that to get here. Unfortunately I won’t be able to ride it for a few days because I had all 4 of my wisdom teeth removed and any physical activity with make my gums start throbbing violently.
But when I finally can, i’m gonna ride it for like 10 hours. I can’t wait !
I remember having to get my wisdom teeth pulled, all five of them, then the next day, I had to play in a concert, luckily for me, I bearlly swelled after the surgery, and there was no pain the next day, I guess I just heal fast, but having to wait for the holes to close up suckled!
Once you get it, you might need to saw off a few inches of the seatpost, but after that, that thing is gonna be one helluva thing to ride, great fun!
