High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

I’ve narrowed my search for a new MUni. down to 3-4 models.

I wanted plenty of side clearance for a 3 inch GAZZ, brakes, (a MUST HAVE for slick rock, IMO), Profile set-u… and something that won’t break too easy.

Option #1: DM Vortex 24 inch it’s $1600 with the profile hub.
Option #2: Hunter has a Poxnanter hub… is that good, or profile better? $1150
Options #3: Kris Holm Pro $1350

and I’m thinking about the $569 (with brakes) regular Kris Holm I know it doesn’t have profile setup, but it is splined… is it good enough or not even in the ballpark as the KH PRO and the other two?

Id be grateful to any of you that have beat these machines and learned what holds up well.

Thanks…

Ed

i’d have to say that your best bet isn’t even on your list! i’d suggest a YUni frame, (26inch) and take it to a bike store, that does some welding, and get them to weld the bosses on. this cost my friend about 30$ Can, this is much cheaper than the other unicycles. you could alse buy the brake kit (welder needed ) thing from unicycle.com, and then take that to a welder, and put the brakes on a Nimbus. I think the DM is way too expensive, and the KH IMO is better than the hunter, but not necessary.
Hope this helps!

-Ryan

brazing…not welding :sunglasses:

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

Hi Ed,
My advice: the Vortex is not any better than any of the others you listed
and since it’s more expensive, I would not go for it. The Hunter and KH24
Pro are both great. The regular KH24 is not as nice, but is probably the one
to get if paying double makes you really cringe. My favorite is the KH24
Pro. The jury is still out as far as how strong the KH24 Regular is vs the
Pro.

About the hub: David Poznanter designed the hub and Profile sells it with
their splined cranks and axle. Together this setup is virtually
indestructible (except for jumping off outhouses after Chris Reeder has
worked on them for a while). When you buy any unicycle with “the Profile
setup”, this combination is what you’re getting. The only variations are
color (black vs silver) and crank weight/strength (regular vs Dirt-Jumper).
There is only one hub. Unless you’re doing huge drops all the time, you
don’t need the Dirt-Jumpers.

Have fun getting the new setup!

—Nathan

“ratherbekayaking” <ratherbekayaking.lc0e5@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote
in message news:ratherbekayaking.lc0e5@timelimit.unicyclist.com
>
> I’ve narrowed my search for a new MUni. down to 3-4 models.
>
> I wanted plenty of side clearance for a 3 inch GAZZ, brakes, Profile
> set-u… and something that won’t break too easy.
>
> Option #1: ‘DM Vortex 24 inch’
> (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=101) it’s $1600 with
> the profile hub.
> Option #2: ‘Hunter’
> (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=103) has a Poxnanter
> hub… is that good, or profile better? $1150
> Options #3: ‘Kris Holm Pro’
> (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=466) $1350
>
> and I’m thinking about the $569 (with brakes) regular ‘Kris Holm’
> (http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=619) I know it
> doesn’t have profile setup, but it is splined… is it good enough or
> not even in the ballpark as the KH PRO and the other two?
>
> Id be grateful to any of you that have beat these machines and learned
> what holds up well.
>
> Thanks…
>
> Ed

Why not just a new crank? :slight_smile:

If price is no oject, go with the one you like the best. I think the DM is a tad heavy, but most of your weight’s going to be in the wheel anyway.

The Profile hub was developed with unicyclist David Poznanter. They’re the same piece of hardware, presumably called a Poznanter hub by Profile.

I’m not aware of any issues with the new KH unicycles, other than the axle protrusion on the cranks. I’m sure they are plenty strong, and those other models can’t compete in price.

Frames are usually not the issue in unicycle strength. So there’s some merit in the idea of working from a Yuni frame as well, as long as you get the Profile setup in the wheel.

If you want to glide like Kris, you need a KH frame, or something else with good foot support. Or an automotive hose clamp.

If you want something exotic, contact Steve Howard or Ed Mosiman also. they’re great experimenters who make high quality stuff!

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

In article <johnfoss.lc66a@timelimit.unicyclist.com>,
johnfoss <johnfoss.lc66a@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
)
)I’m not aware of any issues with the new KH unicycles, other than the
)axle protrusion on the cranks. I’m sure they are plenty strong, and
)those other models can’t compete in price.

One issue is that unicycle.com is out of stock of the KH, they say for
probably a few weeks. Note to the Drummonds for the future; have a lot
of stock ready after the next Moab MUniFest. That place is brutal on
equipment.

I went with the Yuni+Profile instead.
-Tom

The Poznanter hub is the Profile hub. David Poznanter is the guy who did the leg work to get Profile to make the hub. David is from Santa Cruz California and is one of the hard core California muni guys. Thanks David. So the Poznater hub is just another name for the Profile hub.

If you’re going to put a Magura brake on then you want a frame that has the two bolt trials style Magura mounts. Here is what the kit looks like:
<http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=549>

The Hunter and the DM Vortex both use a post mount for the Magura brake. The post mount is not as good for a muni. The post mount requires the use of a horseshoe shaped brake booster while the two bolt trials style mount does not need a booster. The booster is a PITA. The two bolt mount is all goodness. It’s easy to take the brake on and off, it stays in adjustment, and no need for a booster that gets in the way.

If you can get a Hunter with the two bolt style brake mount then it would be a good choice for a muni. But I wouldn’t get it if it has the post style Magura mount. I’m not even sure if Hunter can or will make a frame with the two bolt mount.

Best choice would be a KH frame. It has the two bolt Magura mounts and works very well with the brake.

I like the Profile hub better than the KH hub because the Profile hub is more ankle friendly. The KH hub has a bit that sticks out right where the crank attaches to the hub and that sticky-outy bit will attack your ankle. I don’t think you’d have to worry about the strength of either the KH or the Profile hub. Both will be plenty strong enough for you. The only reason to choose one over the other is cost and ergonomics (ankle friendliness).

If you have the funds then just go for the KH Pro and Profile setup. If you want to save money go for the Taiwanese KH and the KH hub. Another option would be to get the Taiwanese KH frame and use a shim in the bearing block to match it with a Profile hub. The Taiwanese KH frame uses 42mm bearings while the Profile hub uses either 40mm bearings or 1-5/8" bearings. The bearing blocks would need some shimming to fit the Profile bearings.

Another option would be a Bedford unicycle. I think Bedford can get frames with the dual bolt Magura brake mounts brazed on. You’ll have to contact Bedford and see what he can do. <http://www.bedfordunicycles.ca/>

One thing to consider about frames with a brake mount (especially the two bolt style brake mount that doesn’t use a brake booster) is the stiffness of the frame. You want the frame to be strong enough and stiff enough so that when you apply the brake you don’t end up flexing the frame as the brake is applied. The KH frames are strong enough and stiff enough. However, if you get the brake mounts brazed on a standard frame it could be an issue. I’m not sure how strong and stiff the Yuni frame or Bedford frame is if you opted to get a brake mount brazed on to one of those frames.

One other thing to consider is how well the frame clamps the seatpost. Having a seatpost that constantly twists after a UPD is very annoying. The high end frames are all very good about clamping tightly. Some of the lesser frames do not clamp as well. Using a good quality seatpost is also important. The Miyata seatpost is made out of soft metal that compresses and deforms when clamped tightly. Going for a quality bicycle seatpost is a very good upgrade and there is nothing better than the Thomson seatposts. A Salsa fliplock seatpost clamp is also a top piece of kit. Seatpost and clamp choice will depend on your frame. If you get a frame that takes a 22.2mm seatpost your choices will be different because Thomson and Salsa don’t make posts and clamps in that size.

I haven’t had any problems with that sticky-outy-bit on the KH crank but I guess that depends on your own physical parameters.

One thing to note is that the with Profile hubs you can only use the Profile cranks (48 spline). I think you should be able to fit other types of cranks onto the KH hubs. I was in the bike shop the other day and we put on some BMX cranks which seemed to fit pretty flush (sorry I can’t remember what type they were-could be DMR’s). That may be an option if the sticking-out-bit gets in your way.

Ken

I would be very careful about expecting other brands of cranks to fit on the KH hub. There are several brands of BMX cranks that use an 8 spline design. But the spline designs are not compatible with each other. The 8 spline parts from one manufacturer will not work with the 8 spline parts from another manufacturer. The spines are of different sizes and shapes or the spindle sizes are different. There might be a BMX crank that will fit on the KH hub, but I would not be optimistic.

There are others who have said that you get used to the skicky-out bit on the KH cranks and you learn to keep your ankle away from it. It’s probably not a significant problem if you are able to adapt and keep your ankle away.

True…except to say that when I put it on it fit absolutely perfectly with not the slightest hint of play at all. And that was before tightening the crank bolt. I’m not going to try it since I don’t want to buy a crank I don’t need but I’m pretty certain it would work. (disclaimer: If anyone tries this and screws up their KH hub please don’t come after me- you were warned by John Childs)

Ken

there is a new complete hunter at unicycle.com that will accommodate the magura brakes–i think it’s about $1150. i would be interested in knowing how the hunter rides though. what’s the thought on that design vs. the “fork” style design. i had my eyes set on the kh pro, but then the price went way up fast.

I bought the Hunter but without the brakes and I really like it a lot. At the time the KH24 wasn’t available. The powder-coated frame has held up really well, there are no scratches on it. The welds look really well done. On the downside, the Miyata seatpost is a tight fit in the frame. Also the Profiles tend to creak, but that doesn’t bother me much.

A friend of mine has the KH24 and it’s also very nice. I rode it a little bit and wasn’t bothered at all by the cranks. He seemed to think that the KH24 weighed a little more than my Hunter. His hub has also started to creak.

I rode another friend’s Yuni with a Gazz tire and that seemed even lighter than my Hunter. I guess without the heavy-duty hub/cranks it should weigh less.

hey unibabyguy,

did you notice any different ride characteristics between the hunter, yuni, and hunter (stiffness, comfort,…). i know this is kinda hard to do due to different tires and such on each ride. i,ve emailed hunter a few times already about his design. he just mailed this back to me today.

" ONE OF THE REASONS MY UNI’S ARE BUILT WITH THE DOUBLE WISHBONE IS SO
I
COULD GET SOME TIRE CLEARANCE AROUND A 3" TIRE AND NOT HAVE THE OVERALL
WIDTH OF THE FRAME BE TOO LARGE, THAT WAY YOU WON’T BE BANGING YOUR
KNEES
QUITE AS MUCH. THE DESIGN IS VERY STIFF AND STRONG AND HAS BEEN IN
PRODUCTION FOR 5 YEARS AT LEAST. THE DESIGN ALSO CREATES A HANDLE OF
SORTS
FOR GRABBING YOUR UNI. I WANTED TO MAKE SOMETHING UNIQUE AND
INTERESTING AND
THE WISHBONES ARE LIKE THE ONES I USE ON MY BICYCLE FRAMES, SO IT WAS A
NATURAL CROSSOVER…

RICK"

I recently bought a Yuni MUni with the Gazz and am really loving it. The frame is stiff and light. I bought the basic model for $299 and upgraded to the Gazz, which required a 26" frame. The only drawback that I’ve noticed with the Gazz, is that tire pressure is CRITICAL!!! I’ve varied the pressure by as little as 3 psi and it makes a world of difference in the way the tire handles. I weigh arond 180-185 pounds and found that 18 psi in the Gazz is ideal for me. The Yuni uses a stanard 22.2 seatpost. One drawback to the Yuni is there is very little clearance on the sides of the tire when using the Gazz. I’ve ridden it through a few muddy areas and didn’t get any built up sufficient enough to cause a probem with the tire rotating, though.

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

Ed: I busted my converted POS Savage in Moab, and so asked your same question of many of the better riders that had good setups. I received the “26” Yuni w/ 3" Gazz" recommendation most often…with affordability being the prime draw. At the time, I wasn’t thinking about a brake, although I now am, so am looking at either the Hunter or KH Pro frame w/ Profile hub.

On John’s earlier comment regarding the post-mount problem on the Magura brake, it looks to me (from the current unicycle.com photo) like Hunter has now changed away from this and has the two-bolt style mounts directly on the frame on each side of the rim.

Tom

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

In article <tomblackwood.ldq6z@timelimit.unicyclist.com>,
tomblackwood <tomblackwood.ldq6z@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
)
)Ed: I busted my converted POS Savage in Moab, and so asked your same
)question of many of the better riders that had good setups.

We should develop a list of all the equiment we broke in Moab.
What did you break on your Savage?

I know of two broken cranks (Ed’s Lasco and Dylan Wallinger’s
Profile), and one bent (my Bicycle Euro). I taco’ed a Kovachi 700c,
and John Childs knocked his 24" wheel out of alignment. If we get a
frame and a seat we’ll have a whole uni.

) I received
)the “26” Yuni w/ 3" Gazz" recommendation most often…with
)affordability being the prime draw. At the time, I wasn’t thinking
)about a brake, although I now am, so am looking at either the Hunter or
)KH Pro frame w/ Profile hub.

I think the KH non-Pro also will accept a brake, if you can wait for
unicycle.com to get them back in stock.
-Tom

Re: Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

I cracked my frame on both sides…exactly where John Childs and others predicted it would crack…right between the two bolts connecting the lollipop units to the main frame. I know some of you lost some really expensive equipment, but in my case it’s a net-positive, as it moved the Hunter from the “un-necessary gratuitous purchase” category into the “necessary and justified” realm.

Schwinn Unscathed

I just have to say that for all the joking I got about my Schwinn on the Moab trip, it escaped unscathed. I still wouldn’t recommend it for MUni riding, if for nothing else than the jokes you’ll have to put up from other riders. :roll_eyes:

Tom(blackwood)-
I broke my Savage in the same place as you broke yours. I actually got a friend to weld a piece of steel on both sides, drill out new holes, and then I went and bought new bolts to fit the thicker sides. If my uni hadn’t been stolen*, that would have been the last place to break again. Not a bad solution if you want to salvage the frame. I know it’s not as much fun as buying a new MUni, but it works.
Does anyone know of other weaknesses in the Savage-style uni (for beginner riders)? My reinforced Savage, while not the best MUni in the world, survived light to medium trail riding without any more breaks.

*incidentally, it was when my Savage was stolen that I upgraded to my Piece of Schwinn.

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

On Fri, 04 Apr 2003 01:06:52 GMT, doosh@inl.org (Tom Holub) wrote:

>Note to the Drummonds for the future; have a lot
>of stock ready after the next Moab MUniFest. That place is brutal on
>equipment.

And, I guess, even if their stuff doesn’t break, people get envious
after trying other people’s hardware.

(I’m guessing though, I wasn’t at Moab but from the writeups, pictures
and vids it looked like an absolute blast!)

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

“Ford, you are turning into a penguin again. Stop it.”

Re: High-end MUni advice? Need to buy.

For all their clunky heaviness, Schwinn 24" cycles actually work pretty
well. If it’s all you have, you’ll at least be able to ride and have a great
time. You did, didn’t you! The frame will never break either. But once you
get on a 3" tire, you’ll see what you’re missing and an upgrade will happen.

—Nathan

“paco” <paco.ldwwo@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message
news:paco.ldwwo@timelimit.unicyclist.com
>
> I just have to say that for all the joking I got about my Schwinn on the
> Moab trip, it escaped unscathed. I still wouldn’t recommend it for MUni
> riding, if for nothing else than the jokes you’ll have to put up from
> other riders. :roll_eyes: