ive got my brake set up going but it just doesnt pull enough cable.im using a V-brake lever with an Oddessy A-Brake.i thought those rolla-ma-jig things were only for useing on V-brakes,while not useing a standard V-brake pull.
do i need one anyway? i dont understand how the lever can move so far yet the brake pads dont.
I dont know what kinda lever we use (whatever’s in the basement, tons of em. and im sure most are canti levers) it works fine. not much leverage, lots of movement it seems. we’ve also never had much trouble with the A’s. this is the kinda think I should know but dont.
That sucks. I’m using a Shimano lever with a cheap-o Promax v-brake. The lever pulls plenty of cable for me. I tried using a non-v-brake BMX lever and it didn’t pull enough cable. I found myself bottoming out the lever all the time.
Jagur,
I wasn’t sure if that Dia-compe PC-8 lever would work or not, I never tried it with that brake. It’s an older lever from the early/mid '90’s before linear pull brakes became mainstream. I used to use that lever with regular canti’s and it worked great. I think all that linkage in there was designed to provide more modulation/control. Obviously it doesn’t translate to the “V” style brakes.
The lever I used with that “A” brake was an old Suntour lever without all that linkage inside like the Dia-compe you’re trying, and it worked very well.
Find an old standard style lever or one designed for “V” brakes and you shouldn’t have any problems.
well i guess my google news group post from this morning never made it here,but anyway i went and got a “travel Agent” from the shop and it provides alot more cable pull but i still want more…this thing is ugly too.adding a brake to a uni isnt a pretty thing im finding out,its taking alot of time dialing this in and my uni just keeps getting heavier…
Strange, our odessey A’s just have a single roller with a simple L around the [roller] path. perhaps that’s related somehow. if possible I would try setting it up without the extra loop in the cable. if Im thinking right, which may or may not be the case, that loop seems like it might suck up cable pull, also making the brake not have as much power initially. but hey, I could be terribly wrong.
if i use just the straight cable path it wouldnt be any differant than using a noodle,the double loop is the eccentric that pulls more cable.(i read the instuctions )
> Jagur,
> I wasn’t sure if that Dia-compe PC-8 lever would work or not, I never
> tried it with that brake. It’s an older lever from the early/mid '90’s
> before linear pull brakes became mainstream. I used to use that lever
> with regular canti’s and it worked great. I think all that linkage in
> there was designed to provide more modulation/control. Obviously it
> doesn’t translate to the “V” style brakes.
> The lever I used with that “A” brake was an old Suntour lever without
> all that linkage inside like the Dia-compe you’re trying, and it worked
> very well.
> Find an old standard style lever or one designed for “V” brakes and
> you shouldn’t have any problems.
>
> - Frank
>
RSU is down again
anyway,im just going to get one of those roller thingy’s called a
“travel agent”
it should be cheaper than buying a lever set.plus,if it pulls alot of
cable i can test another idea i thought of.
im really starting to not like the look of a brake,it just looks and
feels clunky.then theres the Delta extender i had to hacksaw down,that
thing is so cheesy.