help with muni choice!!

Hey guys, recently got into unicycling, which ive got to say is awesome better than i figured, and im wanting to buy a second unicycle. My 20" is nice but now that ive started riding trails and longer rides its just not cutting it. I was looking at a nimbus muni 26" and nimbus nomad 29", my budgets around 300. I was a little conserned with the weight of the muni is it that noticable? And how tough is the nomad? I read that hill climbing on a 29 is pretty tough as well is it that bad? sorry for all the questions, but thanx in advance!

I have a 20" (Nimbus) and a 29" (KH) and the weight difference is negligible. Certainly, I don’t notice it while riding. I climb well on the 29, but am coming to the conclusion that rough single track is not worth riding uphill as it uses too much energy which I’d rather use on the fun stuff. The same would go for a different sized wheel though - uphill is going to be more energy intensive and certainly more difficult to roll over bumps.

If you are really keen, a 29er with 150mm or longer cranks will get you climbing up plenty of rough terrain like an absolute champ. This is of course, assuming your heart, lungs and legs can take the pounding. :slight_smile:

haha, yeah I agree about the saving energy thing, the downhills r way more fun. :stuck_out_tongue: did it take long to get used to the 29?

I static freemounted about 1/2 of the time the night I got it. (Actually found it easier than the 20", which I’d only begun freemounting a few weeks earlier). Riding it was easy enough too, just took a couple of hours of playing to get used to the extra speed and difference in control - you can really lean into corners. If you already ride trails on your 20", you’ll have no problem at all. Flowing single track should be doable almost straight away with low psi in a high volume tire.

I should add that I sprained my wrist in the first two weeks of transitioning from 20"->29". It was from a failed freemount. You’re up higher, so fall further. Great fun for those watching you, but definitely use wrist guards unless you want to be sidelined for a couple of weeks.

Wheel size is really going to depend on your terrain. I see muni riding in videos posted here that are much more like walking paths than the trails I’m used to. If I was riding through the forest, I’d want a 29’r for sure.

Here in SoCal, we have some long sustained climbing of grades greater than 6% and rocky terrain on the downhills. I ride a 24" with 165mm cranks and I’m quite happy to have “gearing” that low for the climbs and a bit more control on some of the technical descents. Sure, there are times that I wish I could carry a bit more speed on the flats or smoother downhill sections but for me, I don’t want to give up the ability to clean a climb.

Here’s my local loop. Note the climb centered on the 1-mile mark 8.8% for .65miles - I’ve cleared it non-stop, but it’s a solid effort, even on the 24/165. (And I’m fit - been MTBing for 20 years around here).

If you have a GPS, go walk or bike a typical trail around you and figure out the steepness of the grades you’ll find yourself on. Also, budget for a brake, they’ve gotten really expensive lately!

yeah I just recently got the hang of free mounting. Most of what I’m gonna be riding is wooded paths will long gradual grades nothing to extreme with the occasional roots and logs and maybe some gravel and paved trails. I figured if I wanted to do technical trails I could always use my 20" and just take things slow. I almost bought a 24" but I am definitively wanting something with more speed to it. And i couldn’t believe brake prices seems outrageous to me! Maybe I’m just cheap :smiley:

and that loop sounds like a workout, prolly a fun ride tho

Long gradual grades sounds like a 29’r to me. You can pick a range of crank sizes to match your skill/steepness/fitness. 150’s can take me up a local 7% grade on pavement without difficulty on my street 29’r. Add some difficulty for dirt.

I was looking at some different muni’s and came across a 2011 torker dx 24". I can get it for 270 and was wondering how good they are? It’d be a little smaller than what I wanted :roll_eyes: but the price seems pretty nice. Does anyone know when unicycle(dot)com will be getting there stock back in?

and thanx namlak, im having a really hard time deciding :frowning:

The longer you ride it, the smaller the wheel gets! I still think you should go 29. The 24 will get really small the further you ride. I thought my street 29’r was enormous until I did longer rides and it feels like a 20" after 10 miles!

Is that Torker 24 with a brake? If not, you can get a Nimbus 29" for $309 brand new without a brake. Also check craigslist, etc.

So unicycle(dot)com wont work on ne thing i have ive tried thinks to make it work but it didnt work. I cant get my uni from there :frowning: ne where else i can get the nomad? If not i’ll prolly get the torker which has no brakes btw.

You mean the site won’t work? You could call them instead… 1-800-unicycle

If you want to buy used for 200 or less, I have a nimbus 26", very solid never have had any problems. It weighs about 15 lbs and I have two tires for it, a 2-inch and a 3-inch. PM me for some pictures if you like

I wouldn’t worry about a brake to start with unless you can already ride with a hand on the seat handle 99% of the time, particularly down steep hills. If not you won’t be able to use it where it matters anyway.

Finally made my choice, ima get a nimbus muni 24" in black with kh cranks and a kh freeride seat. I’ve been doin some downhill lately and the trails are technical and my dads new place. Can’t wait :D, but thanx for all the info guys.

and about the brakes, on alot of downhills I keep my hand on the handle, seems to help some, especially on the steep ones. Idk if I’ll get em right away but I could definitely use them.