Anyways the point of this thread would be to tell and ask how to fix this uber stupid problem that seemed to come out of nowhere. About a week ago i sprayed my unicycle to look very cool, i love the color now. I put it together when everything dried off, everything was fine.
Then about a week ago i picked my uni up again to start riding, i planned on making a video because my friend lent me his camera. I cant do this now because BOTH of the cranks,suddenly, started to skip. And the best way to explain skipping would be: Go out and try to idle, you would feel a back and forth movment with the cranks as if they werent responding like they would ussually ( kind of like play in a stearing wheel).
Anyways i would greatly apreiciate any help given. Over view of events…
1.took uni apart
2.sprayed uni
3. waited to dry
4.put together
5.rode for awhile (no problems)
6. waited a week
7. started to ride again
8. crank skipping
And iv also tryed everythign to fix it. tightening bolts, switching sides on the cranks, switching splines the cranks were on, everything. sooo help!
Don’t ever do that, there is a R for right and an L for left, with both the cranks and the pedals. Make sure those are on the correct side when you ride it otherwise you could damage something.
Now, are you sure it’s the cranks? Check the bearing caps/holders, see if those are loose or if they wiggle at all. That is something that comes loose quite often.
Loosen the clamp bolt, then tighten the crank bolt w/ a torque wrench to 45 ft.lbs. I think the clamp bolt can take 25 ft.lbs.
Bearings on DX’s are notorious for leaking and may have gotten grease on the threads of the crank bolt. You may want to clean the male and female threads of the crank and clamp bolts w/ rubbing alcohol and put them back together w/ blue locktight, and preferably let it set overnight.
oh
that is not good
you have a loose keyway INSIDE of your hub… warranty should cover it if you have a stock wheelset.
call torker’s warranty and see what they say… the same thing happened to my dx hub, but they would not fix it because it had a different rim on it.
does sound like a keyway, easy way to tell, hold the wheel in one hand, and move one of the cranks, if the other crank moves as well but the wheel stays stationary then it’s keyway slop, get on the phone to them about it.
Correct but since the original poster didn’t add that he turned the seat around as well I assumed he was riding with the L and R sides backward.
I’m surprised at how many people in this thread have had keyway problems. You don’t really hear about it that often.
If that where the case then definitely contact them about getting it replaced, just make sure that is indeed the problem first.
Good luck!
It wouldnt damage anything, no different then switching cranks on a bike, just gotta change the seat direction, also… Its hard to make them skip by hand, it takes alot of pressure, the only way i notice it is when i ride/idle/ transition to crankflip or hickflips. Its not stock anymore, i have 42mm bearings and numbus trials frame on it. And this business about a keyway? wow thats something i have never heard of, therefor thats probably the problem since i couldnt fix it any other way. Im not dumb when it comes to tightening things on my bike or uni, im smart when i comes to most cycle types, and its not the tightening thats the problem, because iv tightened it with a 5 foot pole over the allen wrench and its still doing its thing.