Help me freemount

I’m having trouble learning to freemount, I can already Uni all the way around the block without falling, but just can’t seem to freemount. So I Uni out really far and then fall off, and then I have to look for a place to mount off of or walk home. If you have any pointers on how you learned to freemount please help.


Logan :slight_smile:

I also had trouble learning to freemount. I though I’d never get it. I found that it helped to mount on a downhill, as the uni won’t roll back as easy. Plus, you’re up a littler higher in relation to the unicycle. I found that mounting on grass was easier too, since the wheel stayed put better.
At first, I was trying a roll back mount and having no luck. When ever I would get up, my cranks would be in a dead spot and I couldn’t go forward. I also used to twist to the left bad when trying to roll back mount. Three weeks into riding, I ventured off road. This is where I found it easier to mount on downhills. Also, I learned that a roll back mount does not work well off road because the wheel will not roll back easy on rough ground. Enter the static mount. Put the cranks horizontal, very light pressure on the rear pedal, place seat under butt and leap up onto front pedal. Now just lean forward and pedal away.

In a week, I had it mastered.

Good luck and keep at it… Mojoe

Re: Help me freemount

In article <>,
nu_uni <> wrote:
)I’m having trouble learning to freemount, I can already Uni all the way
)around the block without falling, but just can’t seem to freemount. So I
)Uni out really far and then fall off, and then I have to look for a
)place to mount off of or walk home. If you have any pointers on how you
)learned to freemount please help.

I learned by giving up on it. Really. For about 2 months, after getting
nowhere with freemounting, I just looked for signposts. Then when I went
back to it I was able to hit one in 4 or so, and eventually got solid.

I think the thing that helped my freemounting the most, when I went back to
it, was that I’d gotten a lot of practice riding slowly in areas with
pedestrians; the skills of riding slowly help with that moment right
before you get underway.

Beyond that, make sure you’ve decided whether you are trying to static mount
(without the wheel rolling back) or rollback mount (the wheel rolls back
half a revolution and you start from there). Neither is inherently better,
but you have to be trying for one or the other, rather than sticking yourself
with a vertical pedal.

Are you trying to learn the rollback mount, or a static mount?

I first learned the rollback mount and it took a while to get it down.

Consider mounting as two separate things:

  1. getting on the unicycle, with pedals in the 3 & 9 position, and relatively motionless.

  2. gently tipping forward, waiting, then catching up to regain balance and with forward momentum.

You can practice the second half by using your current pole or car assisted mount. Rather than pushing off from the support, instead, from a balanced postion, just let yourself fall forward, wait a moment, and then try to regain balance and forward motion.

Once you’ve got a feel for the second part, all you need to be able to do is get a relatively consistent rollback.

Before you mount, as you hold the unicycle in front of you, sit on the seat as much as you can. Use your hand to hold the seat against your bottom. If you are already sitting on the seat, then your legs can be used for solely for balance instead of balance and also supporting your weight.

Some of my trouble with mounting was because I was trying to gingerly lower myself onto the seat and take off all at the same time.

good luck,

I learned too long ago to recall. But my 2 daughters are just now learning everything they can, so I can recall.

We agree that it helps to position yourself facing down a slight grade.

pedals at 3/9 or 4/10 (lower number is the rear foot.)

Don’t push on the back pedal while hopping up on the seat. Your other foot should hit the front pedal about the same time as your butt hits the seat. Just the weight of your foot is plenty to hold it still. To them, it was more about the hop than pressing on pedals. If your falling backwards, hop a little further over the top.

Have you ever done the “fake step on your brother’s stomach” while hopping the other foot to the other side of your brother? Sort of like that. Also known as “watch me step in that dog poop. Not!”

I was self taught and never saw another unicyclist for 15 years, and never got my freemounting to 100%. Then I met a few other unicyclists, and learned developed this technique, which is just sooooo much easier and more reliable:

Put the pedals with the near crank slightly below horizontal. I normally have the left pedal in this position, which means that when I mount, my right foot is slightly above horizontal, which is ideal for that first power stroke.

Now put the seat ‘in position’ but without putting any substantial amount of weight on it.

Hold the front of the seat. I hold it with my right hand.

Now, get the feel for this:

Push the unicycle very slightly forward, and the near pedal will rise. As it rises, apply gentle pressure with your foot to stop it.

Do this lots of times. Get the timing right. Your foot should stop the pedal just short of the horizontal position. You have only pushed the wheel forward a few inches.

Now for the next stage…

Push the uni forwards, gently but firmly stop the pedal rising and in one smooth movement, step up onto the uni. What should happen is that in that moment when your foot stops the pedal rising, the wheel is ‘locked’ so there is no rollback and no ‘rollaway’ either.

Aim to get that other foot on that front pedal before you put all your weight on the saddle.

Almost inevitably, there will be an element of rollback, but this will be only an inch or so. But because of the positions of the pedals, the front pedal is coming straight towards the sole of your foot, so it’s easy to get your foot into position.

So, as your front foot hits the pedal, there will be a moment when everything is fairly still, and you lower yourself into the saddle and ride away.

It’s easier to do than describe. :thinking:

Foot on near pedal, seat in crotch.
Gentle push.
Stop the rising pedal and smoothly step up onto the other pedal.
Stop that risng pedal, get balanced
Lower weight onto saddle.

As someone else said, learning to ride slowly and to stand still for a second or two will help with freemounting. idling will help even more.

Personally, and it’s only me, I think the rollback mount is for display purposes only. Others will disagree.

Re: Help me freemount

> Personally, and it’s only me, I think the rollback mount is for display
> purposes only. Others will disagree.

You’re not wrong. It’s the only mount I could do for the longest time.
Then I found it was not suitable for Cokering. Then Roger persuaded
me to suicide. I am yet to combine the two…

Arnold the Aardvark

  • sometimes limp wristed and often has a pain in the rear
  • muni related :wink:

Re: Help me freemount

Mikefule wrote:

> Put the pedals with the near crank slightly below horizontal…
> [rest of content snipped]

I think everyone learns a little differently, but what Mikefule
describes here is just about exactly how my six year old learned to
freemount a few weeks ago. Good job Mikefule!

By contrast, my daughter and I learned to freemount primarily from this
article written by Scott Arnold and Klaas Bil.

Good luck!


Re: Help me freemount

On Thu, 2 Jan 2003 22:11:33 -0600, nu_uni
<> wrote:

>I’m having trouble learning to freemount

It would be helpful if you describe what type of freemount you are
attempting, and what particularly goes wrong with it.

I also spent months trying to learn freemounting. I attempted a static
mount and my problem was that the wheel shot back due to too much
pressure on the first pedal. Even while I knew this I could not
suppress my reflex to go and stand on that first foot. (Maybe someone
should have given me that elegantly worded advice a la MM “step in dog
poop - not”.)

What finally helped me was to concentrate on the requirement that my
second foot had to meet the second pedal in the position where it (the
pedal) already was/is before the mount starts. So focus on that
particular location in 3D, THERE the foot and pedal have to come
together. Silly maybe, but it worked.

Another approach which works, although I learned this after I had learned the normal way, is this…

Start with the back pedal as high as you can get it without it pushing the uni away from you. This means that the front pedal will be as low as you can get it.

On my 26, I found I could acually start with the ‘back’ pedal so high that the crank was parallel with the fork leg!

Now, if you put weight on that pedal, the angle of the crank is such that it won’t easily turn the wheel. So you get minimal ‘rollback’.

Secondly, the front pedal starts low, so the step up only has to be tiny.

Thirdly, the front pedal, if it moves at all, is moving towards the sole of your foot, rather than towards your shin.

As a ‘stepping stone’ to a more conventional freemount, this one might work for you. or not. ;0)

Thanks guys. I was trying to learn the rollback mount, but now think I might try the static mount.



I’d just like to thank all who replied to my post. After reading your responses I went and practiced and after 25 minutes of practicing I could static mount 9 out of 10 times.

Thank you so much.