I bought a coker 36, i think. Has no identifing marks other then a coker tire and two 'Brian Molver ’ decals. Anodized steel rim and chrome plated steel frame, 36 steel spokes, seat post and cranks. Rounded crown. Is it a coker?
Also wondering- I will be using it in a hilly area and would like a brake. If it is a coker I think I read that the rims are brake compatible . For 60 bucks I saw UDC has side pull rim brakes that look like they could work. Also an option If I understand correctly, disk brakes can go on anything as long as I can find cotter less cranks that have the disc attachments. Something that UDC doesn’t list and maybe isn’t available. I suppose it is heavier then newer unis although at my skill level that might not make a difference. Also, It will be my part time 36er as I work out of Ketchikan Alaska 4 or 5 months a year. Its in great shape without a scratch or blemish. I’ve got 200 in it and am uncertain if it makes sense to uprade it.
Having a blast with it. Really like the 36 inch wheel
Hard to say without a picture but from your description I would say it’s probably an early model coker. If you want to put a disc brake on it you can buy “sinz” brand square taper cranks that have disk mounts but you will also need to have some way to mount in on your frame. It would probably be easier to figure out how to put a cheap rim brake on it.
If it’s a steel rim, it’s most likely a first generation coker.
The rim is only compatible with a rim brake if it has machined sidewalls. Steel rims generally are not great for braking, and I don’t think the original coker had machined sidewalls.
Disk brakes will not work with cotterless cranks. It puts too much force on the attachment between the hub and the cranks, that’s why you don’t see those style cranks available.
Luckily, you really don’t need a brake, and Grace rode a first gen coker all the way across the US : ) so it’s certainly capable (although she did technically need a new wheel some way through)
200 is a great deal on a 36! You are correct, it’s probably cheaper to buy a new Titan than it is to upgrade it to be better than the titan.
Welcome to speed my friend! You’ll have a blast.
I’ve been riding for many years and still don’t find the need for a brake, so I think you’re probably good there, but that’s just me.
It isn’t exactly easy or cheap to do, but it is possible. (There’s even a pretty thorough review by Scott Wallis on the site that is an interesting read.)
I imagine it would work, but probably wouldn’t be particularly ideal. You may have to tighten it down every now and then, but according to the “rules” you should do that every ride right?
I used a crank mounted disc for a good many miles and never had to tighten it down. The square taper was fine. The Mountain Uni rotor fits any crank witha 110mm bcd, and there are dar more square taper options than ISIS.
People have been using brakes on steel rims for centuries. Sure its not as ideal as most “modern” options but it can be just fine, especially for fair weather rides.
For that kind of unicycle i would just drill a hole in the crown and install a bmx style side pull brake. You can usually find them for nearly free if you look around. (About $10 at Wal-Mart)
If you want to get fancy you can go with the mountainuni disk brake system. You don’t need to buy sinz brand cranks, anything with the right bolt pattern will do. I believe the disks are made for a 5 x 110 pattern. If you really want to push the envelope you can modify some chainrings to work with some brake calipers in the same way.
Dont be scared to experiment. Sometimes i think that tinkering with my unicycles is almost as much fun as riding them.
You’ll have a blast.