A couple of years ago a machinist helped me attach a Reeder handle to a Viscount. I tried using George Barnes’ self-tapping screws approach but it didn’t work for me. The machinist redrilled my holes, then tapped them. We attached the Reeder from the bottom using machine screws. It worked very well and handled (eek) trail stress and rock hits easily. No muss, no fuss. No need to remove any of the padding.
What are self tapping screws exactly? How much would someone charge to do this? I assume whatever technique you used could also be used on a KH type handle. The thing is a Reeder handle is $40 and I could get a whole new seat for almost that much. Although a 6 euro handle shipped from europe isn’t cheap either…
I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work for trials. It is verrrrrrry strong. My Coker hits the ground more than I would like to admit and almost always lands on the handle. That is the main reason that I built it (to protect the saddle from brutal impacts)
I simply took an old steel handlebar, cut it to the proper length, and brazed it to a seatpost clamp, then installed a short bar-end for the “handle”. If you can weld, it is really very easy to build.
Having tried just about all of the aforementioned handle styles, I would recommend the Kinport plastic handle for use in trials application on the viscount seat. I presently have one mounted on a Summit with a Viscount seat and it works great, is very stiff and strong and looks better and is lighter than the other options. You will need to do a little grinding (of the handle)to get it to fit, though.
This one came with the handle in place. I think it’s a matter of doing a little bit of Dremel tool grinding to make the handle fit the contour of the seat, peeling back the seat cover to drill bolt holes, then putting it all back together. The Viscount seat pan is made of a hard steel. You’ll want a hardened drill bit made for hardened metals.
Another option is to bend a peice of 3/4’ steel conduit into a squarish “U” shape and fasten it at the front with 2 bolts on each side. The conduit is smashed flat on the sides and bent to fit closely so as not to rub the legs. This makes a very strong, light and comfortable grip handle for the Viscount.
The outstanding Kinport handle could be mounted this way as well. The machinist didn’t charge me, but it wouldn’t be much. Three holes and three tapping operations. Again there is no need to disturb the foam. The machine screws screw in from the bottom and have no holding nut.
I found the self-tapping screws to be too hard to turn into the base. I think, too, that the results wouldn’t be as good as having normally tapped holes.
This is my handle and what was prototype 2 has become permanant. After many, many, many close encounters with the ground it hasn’t faulted at all. It now has a brake mounted to it which is in just the right place, I’ll put some photos up when I get time.
There are some other photos in the gallery after I fitted my air conversion to my Viscount.