No, it’s JC’s GB4 36, photographed here along the scenic Iron Horse Trail in western Washington. Direct drive, no gear, not that you’d know that from trying to keep up with him. We limit his speed by forcing him to carry a small cask of wine and all our tools in that big suitcase he has on the back.
I was thinking that I don’t know exactly what I would like best until I try it, so I like the designs that allow adjustment. Where do you get those pieces that allow you to change the angle between the tubes?
I’m not sure I understand the comment about stiffness.
That’s actually doc’s KH 36. My handle is more modest. :o
Here’s a thread with pictures and a description of my JC Coker Handle. If you follow the links back to discussions about JC Coker Handle beta 1 and beta 2 you’ll find info about the parts and assembly.
I have since shortened the handle and gotten rid of the water bottles. The extra weight of the water bottles made the unicycle handle poorly for my needs. The extra weight of the water bottles hanging out there made it more difficult to turn and generally made the unicycle feel sluggish. So now I use a hydration pack (hip style or backpack style depending on needed capacity). It works better to wear the weight rather than put the weight on the unicycle.
The Scott Wallis V-Grip handle seems to be a better now for the ways that I’m actually now using the handle. I may switch to the V-Grip at some point. More compact. The big long handle gets in the way when I do XC style Cokering. I would just need to figure out a way to put the cycle computer out where I can see it while using the V-Grip.
Ok, i made a coker handle. I used 3/4" EMT conduit and gave it slight bends with a pipe bender.
Apparently it’s the biggest one ever.
snicker
anyways, i made it so i can later mount water bottle cages and a cycle computer (i mounted the computer already.) i also used a bike handlebar stem to mount it to the seatpost in place of a clamp.
(Blushes with shame.)
Of course it is. The seat was bugging me even as I wrote the post, as I couldn’t really remember your’s ever looking quite like that. But I forgot Doc built out the Big Boom.
I just HATE IT when I miss questions in “Trivial Pursuit - SARs Edition”. 
Attempt at partial redemption: I do know that the other uni behind Doc’s with the two red handles is a stock Coker belonging to Bruce. I remember further that it belonged to me before that.
You need your handle to be pretty stiff so that it gives you a good control of the uni, and you can use it to lift your weight off the saddle for comfort without it flexing too much. Most of the handles pictured here are metal poles connected to the seat post/frame, and as such are very stiff. The GB4 handle bolts to the underside of the seat at the front, and it’s additional length means that you can put large forces on the seatbase and cause it to flex unpleasently. One solution is a carbonfbre seatbase, which is stiffer and stronger. I hope that clears up what i meant.
I have the T7 on my 36’er as well which I enjoy very much. I notice from the first two photo’s that the owners ran into the same problem I did. The hydraulic line for the magura brake is too short to place the lever where I really want it. I’ve had to compromise and install it under the seat. It’s not the worst place to have it but I’d rather it be where I place my hands while I ride.
That 1st pic looks like a walking stick was welded to the coker. 
Anyway it’s all good and good luck to you. 
Take care
Hazmat
That is a big handle. It almost looks like a rifle or long exhaust. How much does it weigh if you don’t mind me asking?? It’s unique, i’ll give you that. 
I had that problem too, but i got a service kit and extended my brake line to the exact length i wanted. My muni has the brake handle under the seat and my T7 setup is so much nicer, it’s so good to be able to reach it with one finger without moving my hand.
Thanks!
Thanks for the help all!
I didn’t realize that most of these handles were made from a bicycle part (torker stem, made for tandems. I guess it is made to connect to the front seat so the back seat person can have handlebars). I just found one on ebay for $20 including shipping, and I’m really excited. It even has an adjustable boom length. I’ve been wanting a handle for a long time and couldn’t envision how to do it. I will have to shim my seatpost somehow, but I’ve done that before w/ bicycles.
Kokomojuggler, have you seen the T7 handle available from UDC? I was planning on building my own from bicycle parts until I saw the T7. In my humble opinion it’s perfect.
I saw that, but it’s expensive, plus it requires a different kind of seat post. Hey, I’m just this guy, you know? Why do I need expensive stuff?
The T7 handle from UDC is likely less expensive than one you end up building yourself. I have a handle made from a tandem stoker stem along with other off the shelf and used parts. It cost me over $100 to make. Parts and costs add up.
Any comments on the T7 handle. I have tried it briefly and it felt like I was riding a horse or a camel…great …until I dismounted. The corners on the handle bar seemed to be leg scrapes and bruses waiting to happen. Now my mounting and dismounting abilities are not world class but I would love to know other riders thoughts.
I was worried about the same when i got it, but i’ve not once hit my legs on the corners of the handle, even during wildly unplanned dismounts. If i feel myself coming off i tend to throw the handle downwards so its out the way as i fly off the front. My only complaint is that the ends of the rubber grips i but on the handles get trashed pretty quickly in high speed UPDs, but I don’t suppose there’s anything that can be done about that as they’re the first point of contact.
Those rubber bungs that you get on the end of walking sticks or zimmer frames should do the job, although they may mean that the uni would come to more of a dead stop.
Put on a pair of MTB or BMX grips.