Had a torker, it broke.. now what?

I’ve been riding a 24" torker unicycle that I bought on ebay for the last 3 years. In the first few months of riding it there was a clicking sound which always came from the right side of the unicyle when I pedaled. I thought something was wrong with the pedal since it felt like it clicked just slightly at a certain point every time. I didn’t think much of it, and figured that maybe the pedal was breaking in or something (I know, stupid to not check) and eventually the sound went away. But recently, I was riding home when all of a sudden it felt like I had gotten a flat because I was feeling a lot of resistance. I looked down, expecting my tire to deflate, and it didn’t. When I got home the wheel wasn’t spinning too well so I took it apart for the first time in all these years, and the sealed-bearing cartridge was broken into multiple pieces. The bike shop wasn’t able to remove the bearing cartridge so they couldn’t replace it. Has anyone else had this problem, or know of a way to get that cartridge off? And I trust the bike shop, so it’s not like they were being incompetent. I almost get the feeling that the cartidge is welded on, but it doesn’t look like it. (They did remove the bearings and the outside of the cartridge, but wern’t able to get the bottom part that connects to the axle off.)

So, now I’m in need of a new unicycle. I’m not sure how I decided to get a 24" in unicycle in the first place (maybe because I’m 6’4"), but I’m comfortable with it now and have learned to idle with one foot, wheel walk, ride backwards, etc. on it. But now I’m looking around and apparently 20" unicycles are the most popular/common. I mostly use the unicycle to commute, though I do enjoy doing freestyle tricks on it and riding down steps and such, so I’m not sure if I should get a 20" or just stick wtih a 24". The 24" Nimbus II unicycle for 2005 looks pretty nice, but are there any other suggestions? :thinking: Damn, wish I could just get both.

First post btw, hello hello. :slight_smile:

if your 6’4" then i would definately get a 24…it will suit all your needs that you expressed nocely and it will look less funny for you to ride a 24 rather than a 20.

If you’re mainly using it for commuting, you might look into 26", 29" or 36" wheels. They’re less versatile, though.

try telling that to some of the hard core coker guys here…

though if you’re 6’4", and want something you can do some tricks and such on, i’d get a 24/26 incher.

No, I meant for tricks riding. Please don’t call the Coker police on me! :smiley:

I would love to get a coker, but not as my only unicycle. Maybe in the future.

I just switched over from a bmx bike to a fixed gear road bike and the speed and efficiency of that thing is amazing. I can only imagine what going from a 24" wheel to a coker would feel like…

Alright, so I was dead on when I got a 24" unicycle in the first place, so I don’t have to work about wheel size anymore, that’s a relief. The nimbus II that I mentioned seems like the way to go for me, unless someone has some other suggestions for a replacement.

I had the same problem with at 24" Torker (I am 6’2" 225).

To fix it you need to remove some of the spacer that sits between
the hub and the bearing race so a bearing puller can have enough
space to pull the bearing race off.

This is what I did:

  1. I made a cut in the spacer about half way between the hub and the
    bearing race at about a 30-40 degree angle toward were the bearing
    race meets the axle. I did this with a dremel tool and removed all of
    the spacer material between the cut and the bearing race. I did this
    in two places (180 degrees apart) to match the two arms of my bearing
    puller. Do not cut all the way through the spacer, just cut out enough
    of the spacer to get the bearing puller fingers behind the bearing race
    because you will need it when you install a new bearing.

  2. You will need a bearing puller with a clamp to keep the arms of
    the bearing puller together. Place the bearing puller on the axle
    with the the fingers placed into the notches that where cut out of
    the spacer, tighten the bearing puller clamp that keeps the bearing
    puller fingers together and pull the bearing off. It takes a lot of force
    to remove the bearing so use a large bearing puller. It does seem
    like the bearing race is welded on but it will come off.

  3. Install a new bearing using some grease and a bearing installing tool
    or the cut off end of a seatpost (which you have probably never done since
    you are 6’4". You may be able to find a replacement spacer if you feel the
    need to replace the notched out spacer.

If I were you I would just buy a new 24" Nimbus II with a hookworm tire.

I am a long time reader and a first time poster, so hello hello!

jayhawker

That sounds like a whole lot of work. I think I’m ready to upgrade, and if my parents will get it for me for christmas, all the better.

I’m going to ask for this then: http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=742

Excellent choice for freestyle and general riding around. I myself have this in blue, which looks a lot like that, and is quite the stylish ride.
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=791

I got that very unicycle a few years ago and I don’t think there were any problems with it. I think I twisted the hub a tad from jumping, though, but I think they have better hubs now (anyone know for sure?).

What kind of Torker has the broken bearing? Is it a CX (chrome) or a LX (black)?

high school machine shop

take it to your machine shop class in your high school, they can get that bearing off for you for free. it may cost you less than $10 for a new one bearing…or wait till after christmas and then do it…in case you get a new one…

well, it’s chrome so it must be the CX. I think it’s time for an upgrade anyhow, but maybe I could get it fixed just to have a second one handy.

Yeah. The CX isn’t worth too much effort to get fixed. You could easily spend more money on getting tools to fix it than the wheel and entire unicycle are worth. But do keep the unicycle. Someone will have the right tools to fix it at some point and then you’ll have an extra unicycle as a spare or a loaner. The idea to take it to your school metal shop is an idea. Just don’t spend a lot of money getting it fixed because the wheel isn’t worth that much.

The Torker LX unicycles are a good deal and would be worth consideration for a replacement. Just check on the seatpost length to make sure that whatever replacement you get will be tall enough.

Woo! fixed it.

In case anyone cares to know, I did end up fixing the unicycle. Since I couldn’t get the bearing cartridge off of the unicycle (the casing and bearings of the cartridge had been taken off, leaving just a ring) I decided that I might as well experiment. The bike shop I took it too couldn’t get the old bearing off because there wasn’t anything to brace the puller on, and it was too tight a space to knock it off.
Between the hub and the bearing was a small piece of pipe used as a spacer. Unlike the bearing, it isn’t made of hardened steal, so I sawed it and bent it and twisted it until it came off (I did end up gouging the axle a little though, so be careful if you ever have to do this yourself). Then I banged the bearing ring down all the way to the axle, in place of the pipe I had sawed off (It is a bit bigger than the old spacer, so I hope it doesn’t put too much stress on the new bearing cartridge) and banged on the new bearings. The fork was a bit snug when I went to put it back on, so I tried to bend it out just a little, without using any tools, and then I put it on.
So there ya have it. A quick fix that cost all of 7 bucks and some elbow grease. I’ll let you know if it doesn’t hold up. :slight_smile:

that is awesome.