Getting a MUni

Well I have decided that I want a MUni and I went to and got all the MUni’s written down that are in my price range. Now I was wondering what your opinions are on these and which ones you would suggest.

1.United 20-inch Off-Road with Torker Black saddle
Price: $124.00

2.United 24-inch Off-Road with Viscount saddle
Price: $139.00

3.United 24-inch Off-Road Unicycle with Torker Black Seat and 28-spoke Suzue hub
Price: $149.00

4.United 24-inch Off-Road with Torker Black Saddle and 36-spoke Hub
Price: $159.00

5.Schwinn 24-inch Off-Road with Kenda Kenetic 24 x 2.6
Price: $174.00

6.Nimbus 24-inch MUni
Price: $189.00

7.Schwinn 24-inch Off-Road with Kenda Kolossal 24 x 2.6
Price: $195.00

8.Nimbus 26-inch MUni
Price: $199.00

9.Torker Unistar DX 24-inch
Price: $209.00

10.United 24-inch Off-Road withTorker Black Saddle, Suzue 36-spoke Hub and Kovachi Wheel
Price: $219.00

11.Schwinn 24-inch with Nokian Gazzaloddi 24 x 2.6 DH Tire
Price: $223.00

12.Pashley 20-inch MUni
Price: $249.00

13.Pashley 26-inch Mountain Unicycle (MUni) Standard
Price: $263.00

14.Yuni 24 inch Off-Road with 2.6 knobby tire
Price: $299.00

15.Yuni 24-inch MUni
Price: $299.00

16.Semcycle XLW 24- or 26-inch Off-Road
Price: $319.00

17.Semcycle XLW 24- or 26-inch Off-Road with Torker Black Saddle
Price: $339.00

18.Yuni 26-inch MUni
Price: $344.00

19.Pashley 26-inch Fire MUni
Price: $344.00

20.Semcycle XLW 24- or 26-inch with Sun BFR Rim, Gazzaloddi Tire, Semcycle Saddle
Price: $349.00

21.Onza 24-inch MUni
Price: $399.00

There is also a distributor called Lambert which a couple stores can order from in my area look in this topic.

Get the onza, their the only ones on your list that have a splined hub.

ah-hem. The Torker DX has a splined hub.


If 400$ is your pricerange i would suggest getting together with someone who really knows what they are talking about and decide on parts you want because i think it would be much more cost effective and putting together parts is very easy even for a beginner. If you want just a package deal then tell us what you want all we know is that yuve pretty much started to MUni but you want more so that means were shooting in the dark at whats right for you. I would suggest first checking product reveiws then go from there alot of us dont know what were talking about we just know what we like not what you like.

I hope you find whats right for u!:smiley:

Note: i said alot of us not all of us!

The Torker UniStar Dx-24 also has a splined axle and crankset. It has a 25.4mm seatpost in addition which is a step up from the 22.2mm weenie unicycle standard that needs to be changed desperately.

The Onza ad claims that it has an alloy seatpost. That means nothing by itself. Steel is an alloy and the aluminum used in cycle parts can be any of several different alloys. Alloy is usually incorrectly used to distinguish steel (which is ALWAYS an alloy) from aluminum (which MAY occur as a pure elemental metal and not be an alloy). It is incorrectly applied in that it is generally used to describe something that is NOT steel. Interesting, irritating and almost universal misuse of the term. More importantly, does the Onza have a 27.2mm seatpost tube? If so many MB seatposts can be used with it and you can get a cheap seat rail adapter to give you a VERY flexible seat adjustment base.

Lots of folks started with Schwinn frames. I think that they’re too heavy and the marginally adjustable seatpost is annoying. The seatpost bolts pose a nice little thigh slicing threat, too.

Big pluses to look for are: (1.) splined axle (hub) and crankset (2.) 24x3.0 tire (3.) 27.2mm seatpost tube (4.) metal, pinned pedals (5.) a seat with a handle preferably convertible to an airseat (6.) machined bearing holders (7.) lightweight frame. (8.) someone willing to give it to you for free.

Re: Getting a MUni

harper <> writes:

> … Steel is an alloy and the aluminum used in cycle parts can be
> any of several different alloys. Alloy is usually incorrectly used to
> distinguish steel (which is ALWAYS an alloy) from aluminum (which MAY
> occur as a pure elemental metal and not be an alloy). It is incorrectly
> applied in that it is generally used to describe something that is NOT
> steel. Interesting, irritating and almost universal misuse of the term.

Just substitute the phrase “aluminum alloy” whenever you see “alloy” in
a cycling context and it all starts to make sense…


Are you just doing muni or do you plan on doing other types of riding too?

I think I will be doing other types of riding to.

I just realised something, I don’t even think theres many places to go muniing around my area.:frowning: I got to really think about what I want to spend my money on, Thank you all for repling though.

build your own

buy separate parts abd then construct your own uni because this way you wont be paying for parts you dont need, for example if you buy a complete uni you will replace the saddle and pedals amd depending on your price range/style of riding you may upgrade crank arms (especially if you have a square tapered hub) and frame. here is what i did:

miyata airseat conversion
yuni 26" frame
alex dx32 rim/ suzue hub wheelset
24x3 arrow downhill tire
bulletptoof pedals
BE crankarms

so, first the airseat. i got this because when i do muni, i like to make it an entire days trip. the airseat is by far the most comfortable seat and your butt will thank you if you get it.

the yuni frame. while not a great frame, its cheap and has a great crown for one footed tricks. some of the completed munis have no crown on the frame and so if you plan to do freestyle you will need to upgrade; or, if you have a lOT of extra cash you may want to get a hunter frame or something similar.

the wheelset. i have been happy with the suzue hub. i live in DC/virginia and i rarely come across a drop while riding trails that i would not do because i lack a splined hub. i do, though, hate cotterless cranks. the pyramid nut always comes loose and i need to buy new cranks every month ot two. the good thing about some of the completed unis (onza and kh) is that they have cheaper splined hub so you dont feel bad about paying 300 for a profile. i plan to upgrade to a splined hub for my uni very soon. ill probably get a profile. im just tired of bending crankarms and tightening pyramid nuts.

the tire. you need a 3" wide tire for muni. i guess a smaller one would be fun because its more challenging, but if you want to ride to full potential get a 3". the arrow is much cheaper than the gazz but will wear out faster if you ride it on street (i dont have a gazz so this comparison is based on my arrow and my friend’s gazz).

bulletproof pedals are good because they are cheap and have good pins. the spindle will bend after a lot of riding but they are definitely worth the cost and work great.

i listed BEs as my crankarms but i have gone through 4 different types of crankarms (BE, torker, united, and sun). the torkers bent beyond repair in less than one hour of trail riding, the BEs lasted about 15 and the two others have surprisingly lasted hundreds before they died. i have nimbus x cranks coming in the mail so ill update later how well the work.

this is all i have to offer but i will reiterate that building your own is fun and makes it easier to have exactly what you want. oh yeah, my set up was about 300 usd, maybe a little more. i rode it for muni, trials, and freestyle but now i have an onza 20" on which i can do trials and freestyl so i can save my muni for dirt use only. good luck and sorry for making you read this dreadfully long post. but if you are into reading really long stuff might i suggest dostoevsky’s the brothers karamazov. i just finished and really enjoyed it…

How about this one.

Air seat, Yuni Frame, Profile hub/cranks, Doublewide rim…


I knew that was coming.

Mojoe is offering a great deal. If I was in the market for a Muni, I would definately bid on this ride. Good Luck!!! --chirokid–

If you’ve belatedly realised that there is nowhere locally that you can ride MUni, that suggests to me that you haven’t done much MUni yet.

If so, then you don’t yet know what sort of MUni you will enjoy.

Will you enjoy riding 5, 10 or 15 miles (or more) on rough tracks and across fields?

Will you enjoy riding short but extremely difficult hilly sections?

Up or down, or both?

Or will you prefer staying in one small area and riding really difficult lines across the same patch of uneven ground?

For long distance, a bigger wheel is good.

For steep hills on firm ground, a smaller wheel is good.

For drops and jumps, a small wheel with a fat tyre is good.

For seriously uneven ground, mud and puddles, a big wheel is good.

For long distance cross country, an ordinary (non splined) hub is perfectly adequate.

For jumps and drops, I believe that a splined hub will last longer.

I’m told air seats are comfortable. If you’re riding MUNi you spend a lot of time standing up anyway! A non-air seat is perfectly good for 10 - 20 mile rides.

A good compromise is a 24 inch wheel with a fat (3 inch) tyre, cranks around 125 - 150 mm (170 are for very serious hills only) and pinned pedals. A good metal handle on the seat makes a big difference.

Why not buy a good base model, upgrade it bit by bit (pedals will be the first upgrade) and find out what you really enjoy, then build your second MUni to suit your needs a few months later?

I was wondering is it a bad idea to use a muni for Trials? Will it break faster?

I wasn’t insulting him for plugging his sale. I know it’s a great deal.

Edit:New Page!!!(already?)

Edit again, just to make this a relevant reply:

I don’t think using a Muni for trials makes it go faster unless its real hardcore trials or a real crappy MUni. Most high-end Munies are designed to take repeated drops of 3 feet or more…or less.

How do you do big drops and large staircases without hurting yourself? Theres a huge flight of stairs at my high school which I would like to tackle and I just got the new torker which I think could take the drops but I don’t think I could. The DX torker is a really good muni for its price range and is a lot better for distance riding. I took it on the trail I usually rode on my old torker and after doing ten miles there is one thing to describe it. Ahhhh… velo seat…:smiley:

It looks very tempting but it will only ship to U.S.:frowning:
I am in Canada, O well.

I just lower my seat a whole bunch and “shock” the landing. By this I mean absorb it as much as possible with your body. Bend at the knees and flex your body. This extends the time over which the impact occurs and causes less force on your body and unicycle. When doing side-hops down stairs and such make sure you land with the unicycle leading your body, but not by much. If you don’t you can taco your rim or fold the tire off it.

The biggest thing I had trouble with when I first did drops was confidence. You need to be confident in yourself and your unicycle. Don’t hop up to the edge of somethign and just sit there. If you’re gonna do it, do it fast. The longer you think about it, the more you’re going to think about bad outcomes. The more you think about bad outcomes, the more likely they are to come true. So if you think you can land a trick, just go try it. But start small and work your way up.

As a general rule, when I ride down stairs I first hop up the set. That seems to make the stairs look less daunting.

Drops are a little different cause I can’t hop all that high. As OB1 said, confidence is a big part of it.

Good luck,